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OBD2 Solar powered battery chargers?
Until last night I wasn't even aware these things were a thing. Saw someone suggest it to another on a car group I'm on.
I have a car that has a parasitic drain. If you use it daily then there's no problem but if you let maybe 3-5 days pass then you could have an issue starting it. In the end I got a starter pack & just left that in the boot.
Car is going for MOT next week & tbh it's just a stepping stone car while I look for something more long term. I've had a YouTube on how to determine parasitic drain but can't determine what the cause is … and it's not the battery. As the car can certainly make 24 hours & the fact I'm not looking to keep it overly long, I don't want to spend an endless amount on an auto electrician.
But then I saw these things mentioned.
Now I know solar panels are best out in the open in direct good sunlight rather than sat in a windscreen … but then you leave it open to some idiot just taking/damaging it.
I also guess if you buy the cheapest of the cheap then you're going to get poor results.
So if you buy a decent (whatever that is) unit, are these things actually much good? Just chancing someone here may have experienced these & can comment either way.
It's not to charge the battery from dead, it'd be to just keep it ticking over so that I can finish using it on a Friday & have no concerns come Monday morning.
These kinds of things but not necessarily specifically this one.
Comments
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If you are having starting issues after not having driven for 3-5 days then your battery has almost failed, get it replaced.
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No problem, please explain this…
Car A has starting trouble. Think it's battery. Put an apparent good battery in as a replacement (but used) - problem persists.
Car B comes to an end but has a compatible battery. Battery is within warranty still & gives absolutely no starting issues whatsoever in the couple years its been in use. Battery was bought brand new.
As soon as this battery gets put in car A from car B the problem persists - battery drains when left for a few days.
So bearing in mind the battery was giving absolutely no trouble in car B whatsoever and it immediately caused trouble in car A, please explain how the battery has failed (or almost failed).
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There are different types of battery. Battery from car A may not be comparable with car B.
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If your parasitic draw is high enough to prevent starting after a couple of days it must be around 500mA or so, or you only run the car for a short time every day and the battery is never getting recharged.
The best solution is to get a £12 charger from Lidl/Aldi and put the battery on charge every Sunday, but I guess if you are considering a solar charger that you can't get mains power to the car.
I had a solar charger about 10"x6" in my LandRover, and it only put out about 50mA behind glass in direct sunshine, so it was really a waste of money.
I can't imagine that anything affordable is going to make a significant difference if you have a continual 500mA discharge, you will only get a decent output for a couple of hours a day from a panel on top of the dash/rear parcel shelf.
I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....
(except air quality and Medical Science
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Put an apparent good battery
How sure are you that it is good?
As you have looked on car groups, then perhaps look on one for your car (which is?) & you might get a answer to what the cause of the drain is.
If the battery is constantly going flat, then the issue needs sorting & battery replacing. The more a battery goes flat, the quicker it will do it in future, as the internals get damaged.
Life in the slow lane0 -
The way to test a battery is to use a voltmeter as a basic check; a battery tester to determine state of health; and an ammeter to help diagnose parasitic draw issues. Swap-testing isn't that useful.
It does sound like a parasitic draw here.
What was a good battery can be damaged by being discharged then not recharged for a length of time.
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If your parasitic draw is high enough to prevent starting after a couple of days it must be around 500mA or so, or you only run the car for a short time every day and the battery is never getting recharged.
Agreed.
If the drain is 150-200 watt-hours a day, even in the summer months you're going to need a chunky solar panel to keep up.
I've got a 10W solar charger (the exact same Eco Worthy one that the OP has linked to) and that's likely to only add 20-30 watt-hours a day, even in good April weather. My car takes 3-4 weeks to go flat (in the summer, when I'm cycling to work instead of driving) and it's perfect for me.
The OP however is going to need something like a 100 watt panel, which might not even fit in his windscreen.
Something this size:
N. Hampshire, he/him. Octopus Intelligent Go elec & Tracker gas / Vodafone BB / iD mobile. Kirk Hill Co-op member.Ofgem cap table, Ofgem cap explainer. Economy 7 cap explainer. Gas vs E7 vs peak elec heating costs, Best kettle!
2.72kWp PV facing SSW installed Jan 2012. 11 x 247w panels, 3.6kw inverter. 35 MWh generated, long-term average 2.6 Os.1 -
It may be make specific, but if you leave anything permanently connected to a BMW OBD port then they start to throw fault codes after a few days.
A known problem according to BMW owners forums.
Some folks have had success with a solar charger connected via a cigarette-lighter socket.
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Car B comes to an end but has a compatible battery.
I suppose I should've put it in bold. I've done that now though.
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Thanks.
This is why I wanted to ask others because I've no idea. You can pull numbers because I'll assume you know what you're talking about. All I see is x-days = need for a jump, I can't break it down beyond that & so wasn't sure if one of these things would be any good for my situation or not.
So thanks for the reply.
The journeys are 10 mile a time, 20 mile a day. Like I say, if I run it each day then there's absolutely zero issue with the charge, it wont lose it.
I could get away with running it Saturday, having Sunday off & coming back to it Monday - that's also fine.
Running Friday, having Sat & Sun off, back on Monday will more than likely be fine.
But once you start getting much beyond that the chances get less & less. I have before started it 5-7 days after it last ran & it struggled a bit but then started. Likewise I've tried it 3 days after it last ran & it needed a jump.
As for a charger, I have one. a Ctek something or other that was around the £80-£100 range. It just means running the extension lead from the outdoor socket over the drive, positioning it all in case it's a rainy day & then getting it all back in later in the day. Not the end of the world but I was thinking if I could do away with that kind of faff then all the better.
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