Garador springs - how to tension?

WIAWSNB

These are the tension type springs, not torsion.

I retensioned my own a year ago, and it was terrifying - I couldn't pull it up by hand, so used a trolley jack and a stick to do this. I must be a wimp these days, as I know I did tension them by hand when I fitted the door 15 years ago - they had fabric straps on them that you could pull. Couldn't budge the darned thing this time - ah, age… :-(

So I have this one to do for a relative. The door wobbles alarmingly as it closes, and the electric drive shuts off as a result. I noticed that one spring has two-stops less tension that the other, so I suspect that is the cause.

Sooo, I need to pull this baby up two notches. Ideas, please?

Do I man-up and clamp a mole-wrench on the top lip and pull like hell? Or do I contrive some form of pulling cord to a joist from above? Or do I repeat my near-death method of a trolley jack and a stick to push up from below?

Yes, I know it's done with the door open, so under less tension. Ta.

fwor

Probably the cheapest, simplest method would be to secure a strong hook to a joist above, and then run a loop of rope (ends joined together with a double fisherman's knot) from the hook to the lip. Then put a length of wood as a "handle" sideways through the loop and wind the rope round itself. This shortens the loop, and can produce substantial force. I would also consider using a ratchet strap as a backup, to catch the spring assembly in case anything slips.

stuart45

If using a jack it would be safer getting the jack directly on it from a build up of concrete blocks etc.

WIAWSNB

Thanks. I'll report back if I still have my fingers.

WIAWSNB

Installation instructions show it's just pulled up by hand, but needs summat like a bar to catch the lip so you can pull up with two hands.

Gulp.

stuart45

You need a bit of practice with the Bullworker.

WIAWSNB

Lawdie - had one of them (well, bro did) maaaany years ago :-)

Eldi_Dos

If you have a robust vine eye bolt nuts and washers fit them in top slot (position 9) of strut.

Then get a tommy bar and fit that under lip in bracket ( marked no 2 )

Run a strong bit of rope round each side of tommy bar up through vine eye an the create a loop about a foot from floor. You should then be able to use foot pressure and two hands to move bracket (marked 2 ) up to slots above.

If it goes wrong I do have legal protection.

WIAWSNB

Well, did it today.

Clamped a Mole wrench firmly on the lip, and this provided good hand grasp. I was able to pull it up to the required 4th link, but - lawdie - wouldn't have wanted to have gone any further.

It wasn't helped by the appalling design - the strip with the holes dangles loosely, so every time I tried to engage the hook on the springs, the strip just swung out of the way. So, block of wood behind it to hold it. Then I find that the hook on the springs needs prising backwards so the tip is pointing forwards to allow it to engage.

So it's haauulll upski, prise the wrench backwards to get the tip of the hook pointing adequately forwards to get into the narrow slot, push firmly forwards whilst praying the strip doesn't move, and engage. I really really want to find the guy who designed this. I'd like to make a suggestion, which includes Vaseline.

So, did it work? No. The garage door still recoils half-way closed, and reopens. Why? Almost certainly because the springs are now too tight - instead of tensioning the looser one upwards as I did, it looks as tho' I should have slackened the other one down. Lawdie.

That's for another day, as the lower fixing for one spring is all bent, so needs fully removing to hammer into shape. Why did I start…

victor2

It's presumably an up and over door and used to work fine. It isn't a problem with the overhead tracks on each side is it? Or the motor giving signs of failing? Just wondering what could give me problems one day with my electric garage door, which works as expected (and I love) and must be about 25 years old now…

WIAWSNB

It all seems to work fine, and closing the door manually seems smooth enough too.

I suspected an imbalance because it wobbled sideways in mid travel, and then I discovered the differing spring tensions. After tightening one, the door then ran smoothly, but did the 'I've hit summat so will reverse" malarkey half way, so I suspect it's now too tight. I left it at that as I need to do more work on the lower spring holder.

The rails and rollers all seem fine, as does the motor.

What issues have you had? What symptoms?