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Few small issues with water in new flat
Comments
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At least find the stoptap and that you are able to turn it off, before attempting anything.
Regarding the radiators, if they really are ‘boiling hot’ then probably your boiler flow temperature is set too high. Modern gas boilers run more efficiently ( use less gas ) when set to run at 65 degrees or less.
On the front of the boiler you should be able to see a way of changing the temperature the boiler heats the central heating water to ( if it needs changing).
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Fair play and looks like you were right about the lockshields. Not sure why anyone would turn those down too far like that but there you go.
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Good pics - thank you. And well done for sorting the cold rads. Tbh, I wasn't expecting the 'lockshields' to be at fault, but rather the control vales on the other end. That could still be the case - if they other ends are TRVs, then fair chance they have 'released' themselves from previously being seized shut. But, see how it goes, and you do have heating - the most important bit. Can you recall how much more you opened the L/S's? You can always return them to that position if needed.
The two isolating valves supplying the flexi hoses to the tap appear to be open. If you detached the flexis to check them, then presumably you do know that these valves are functioning ok?
Then there's the two other screwdriver-operated isolating valves further down. As S62 points out, if they supply the kitchen tap, then there's your issue right away! The LH (hot?) looks pretty much fully closed, and the RH (cold) partially so. You can safely open them both fully to test - when the slots are in-line with the pipe/flow direction, that's open - but be ready to shut them off too if needed. And, have a tray or dish that you can place under them to catch any drips.
Q - what is the flow from the cold side like?
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WIAWSNB said:
Then there's the two other screwdriver-operated isolating valves further down. As S62 points out, if they supply the kitchen tap, then there's your issue right away! The LH (hot?) looks pretty much fully closed, and the RH (cold) partially so. You can safely open them both fully to test - when the slots are in-line with the pipe/flow direction, that's open - but be ready to shut them off too if needed. And, have a tray or dish that you can place under them to catch any drips.
I'd disagree with the "safely".
There's likely a reason why the valve has been left in the position it has, and a likely reason is the valve is failing (e.g. water leaking out around the 'screw' head). If that is the case then there can be a sweet spot in the valve position where the leak is minimal… and problems with the old valves would be a logical reason why someone has fitted the red/blue valves as well.
If the valve seal is failing then there's no guarantee that having moved the valve to full-on that moving it back to the current position will stop water leaking out of the valve. If the rubber fails it fails, there's no going back.
On a Saturday evening/Sunday it could turn out to be an expensive risk to take if you don't have the skills, tools and materials needed to replace the valve yourself.
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Pffft - you need to live a little more.
Obvs I mean to 'test', and it can be shut off if summat goes awry.
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Understood you meant to test - my point was that if the rubber or PTFE seal around the 'screw' is failing then turning it back to where it currently is won't necessarily stop the leak. If that happens then it may be the only way of stopping the leak is to turn the mains off for the whole house and call a plumber.
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Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I have leaky / blocked pipe cover from homeserve, they sold me a 1 year introductory offer thing for 50p a month for the first year so will wait until Monday before messing with it. If it is leaking as you suggest it might, I will invoke the cover and contact homeserve.
That 50p introductory offer turns into £13 a month after a year though… Wild.
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