Dripping condensate pipe

hatt55

It looks like the joint of this condensate pipe is dripping. I don't have much space to play with in terms of trying to replace the joint or anything, as just to the right it goes behind a kitchen cabinet to then feed into the waste pipe.

I'm wondering if a PVC solvent could do the trick, but i'm not clear whether that only works if you're sealing the joint afresh or if it can just be smeared over the outside? I'm a total novice.

Some builders have been doing refurb work and installed a new waste pipe, so whilst they didn't deal with this joint directly I reckon they could have nudged it a bit whilst they were working. They're back in the week for some snagging so I could ask them to address this then, but in the mean time I'd like to have the boiler on without it dripping!

WIAWSNB

Since it's at a gentle slope, it will almost certainly have been fully solvented to begin with - or should have been. (For vertical pipe runs, a plumber may possibly have solvented only the bottom pipe in place so it's easy to dismantle in future if needed, but really it should all be fixed, apart from the first pipe leaving the boiler.) Once solvented, it should be able to cope with a fair amount of abuse without failing.

Annoyingly, chances are it's still all solvented to a fair degree, so being able to separate them first is unlikely to be an option, at least not without destroying the joint. But, worth a try?! IF you can grab both pipes firmly and give them an attempted part-turn back and forth, any joint movement?

Zooming in, tho', there doesn't appear to have been any movement at all in either pipe, so I fear it's just a poor solventing, or possibly - tho' unlikely - an actual crack. Can you completely dry the joint with paper towel, and then shine a torch at it - try and determine where, exactly, the drip is oozing out from?

Ideally, you'd want to cut along the coupling, and snap it open, prising it off both pipes. A clean-up and a proper solventing would then secure a new coupling in place.

Will applying solvent over it stop the leak? Chances are yes, but it's hardly reliable, so I cannot recommend it. Could you amalgamating-tape it? Yes, but any movement elsewhere in the pipe might undermine this.

I'm struggling with a solution that isn't a bodge, tho' others may have better ideas.

Condensate is slightly acidic, so it isn't something you want dripping away hidden.

What access do you have to the pipe going each way?

I fear the only solution is replace the joint. Not as hard as it may appear - gently cut along the side facing you, going deep into the wall, but not touching the pipe inside. Insert screwdriver blade and twist. If the joint can't be prised off cleanly - if it leaves bits behind stuck to the back, for example, or if you crack it damage the actual pipe - then you'll need two new joints, and a short length of pipe - almost certainly 22mm 'overflow' type. Only let the builder do this if they know what they are doing. It isn't 'hard', but it has to be done correctly.

grumpy_codger

As there's no pressure, the leak can be stopped temporarily (or even permanently) with any very elastic tape, e.g.

Parafilm M Laboratory Film Tape 5/10cm wide 1m- 5m Protects/Seals Petri Dishes | eBay UK

Parafilm M Laboratory Film Tape 4in/10cm wide 0.5-76m | eBay UK

Possibly, even with PVC electrical tape stretched well enough.

hatt55

Thanks for the comprehensive response. In terms of access, this is at the back of a space that is a bit larger than a washing machine. The boiler is behind where the photo is taken, so the pipe runs all the way along a wall to the left of the photo and then takes a 90 degree turn to run into the part of the pipe you see in the image. It then goes behind a kitchen unit.

So I do have reasonable access to the pipe before it makes its ways behind the kitchen unit, with an elbow joint at the other end. I will go and take a closer look at the pipe itself. This was quite late last night and the light down there isn't very good. I'm relatively confident that the leak isn't coming from the pipes below, although i spotted the water on those but I think it has dripped from above.

I'm wondering whether a bodge is sufficient to just get to the point that someone with all the tools could repair it properly. Amalgamating tape seems to have mixed review on Screwfix etc. though!

grumpy_codger

Some video for parafilm:

How to Use Paraffin Film | Parafilm | Use of Parafilm | Use of Parafilm to Seal Glassware | ENGLISH - YouTube

4:45

hatt55

Parafilm looks like it might be tricky to get form a shop near me today, but if something simple like electrical tape will do the job then i'm happy to give that a go.

I might already have some duct tape.

grumpy_codger

Also, I think some hybrid polimer adhesive/sealant can be used. Most say "Bonds to Wet Surfaces" or similar.

Soudal Fix All High Tack Hybrid Polymer Adhesive White 290ml - Screwfix

Hybrid Sealant & Adhesive Sealants | Sealants & Silicone Tools | Screwfix

Eldi_Dos

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81863194#Comment_81863194

Forget about tape in the confined space between pipe and wall you will not get a sufficient seal.

If you want to try yourself,give the pipe a good clean all round an then apply a couple of finger wipes of putty around the seals. Kneed the putty to get it pliable before use.

grumpy_codger

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81863214#Comment_81863214

The pipe is flexible enough to get the tape between it and the wall.

Eldi_Dos

But there is not enough clearence or rigidity to make it worth trying, when other methods will have a higher success rate.

TELLIT01

Are you certain it is leaking from that joint and that the condensate or water isn't running down the outside of the pipe from further round? If work has been done elsewhere it's possible.