Is it difficult to drill a hole in brick on outside or house

grumpy_codger

casper_gutman said:

grumpy_codger said:

stuart45 said:

grumpy_codger said:

Without impacts/hammer it's much better to use sharp masonry drillbits. I think they are usually called 'multimaterial'.

A masonry drill bit is a bit different from a multi material drill bit. A masonry bit is specifically made for masonry, whereas a multi material is designed to be used on a variety of materials without the need to keep changing the bit. However, for masonry, a masonry bit cuts through a bit better. 
Even with a good quality masonry bit, a hammer action is better for harder brick and stone. The thing that wrecks a masonry bit the quickest is overheating from taking too long to drill out the hole. The more powerful the hammer action, the quicker the hole is drilled and the less wear on the drill. I can get about 4 times the life out of a drill bit using a 10J drill than using a smaller 3J drill on hard materials. 
The exception is a diamond drill that works by cutting alone, such as a core drill.

You are right, although I disagree about overheating effect and I never noticed any real difference between 'masonry' and 'multmaterial', at least for bricks.
What I meant was that SDS-type drillbits are usually not sharp, even new, and are really bad for drilling without hammer.

A low powered drill without hammer action won't have a suitable chuck for use with SDS bits, the entire purpose of which is to allow the use of a more powerful hammer action. That's why SDS bits have a widened shank with slotted grooves to slide longitudinally in the chuck.

SDS shank is 10mm. 

This Bosch takes 10mm and IIRC I did use it with SDS drillbits (in hummer mode).

And the only vague fact we know is that the OP has "a few drills".

My point was that for drilling a small hole in a brick it's better to use a sharp masonry drillbit, especially if close to the edge.

Heedtheadvice

Seem to be veering g away from the question here!

As posted above.

Find screw size for the door bell.select a plastic plug the right size for the screw.

A masonry drill bit the same size.

Position towards the centre of a brick ( I.e. not close to the edge) for the holes.

Mark hole positions keeping door bell vertical for looks.

Use drill with masonry bit to give a starter hole to just mark the brick with a slight indentation ( the drill can wander off position) correct if necessary.

Drill hole to the depth of the plastic plug keeping g the drill square to the brick to minimise any positional wander.

Tap in plugs. They need not be a tight fit but not slack either but should go in their full depth. Of they are a bit slack push in a match stick first ( cut off the end!) to tighten up. Fix the doorbell with the screws. A small bit of detergent on the screw thread makes tightening easy. If a plastic doorbell do not over tighten.

Usually the screws and plugs will come with the unit.

Do not bother with all the chat about drill life etc. for just two or three holes!! A budget one will be fine just avoid the very cheap poor quality ones.The vast majority of bricks are soft enough to drill ( battery or mains one) with a basic masonry bit. Note the bit hole size is at the point not the shank which will be a bit thinner.

Use correctly sized screwdriver for the screw head. It should fit neatly but not 'rattle' in the head.

Section62

Heedtheadvice said:

A masonry drill bit the same size.

Better to use a bit which is 0.5 to 1mm smaller than the plug.  The hole can be opened up slightly if it is too tight for the plug, but oversized holes won't give a secure fixing without resorting to bodges (or larger plugs)

Heedtheadvice said:

Position towards the centre of a brick ( I.e. not close to the edge) for the holes.

If the final position of a smaller/lighter item is not critical it can be better to aim to drill into mortar rather than brick.  The mortar should be softer and thus easier to drill, plus it is easier to make a less visible repair to mortar than it is to brick - e.g. if the hole is drilled in the wrong place, or when the thing is no longer needed.  Repairing holes in bricks is tricky.

Heedtheadvice said:

Of they are a bit slack push in a match stick first ( cut off the end!) to tighten up.

If the hole is drilled slightly undersized the need for matchstick bodges should be avoided.  Also if a bodge is required then it is better to use a couple of turns of insulation tape (or similar) around the plug so the expansion is more even around the screw, rather than a matchstick which only increases the effective diameter of the plug at one point on the circumference.

Heedtheadvice said:

A small bit of detergent on the screw thread makes tightening easy.

The screw should go in without the need for any lubricant.  If lubricant was needed then water-based detergent is a poor choice. Scraping the screw across a bit of candle wax would probably be a better bodge.

Heedtheadvice said:

Usually the screws and plugs will come with the unit.

These are usually of poor quality - particularly the screws.  Many of the problems DIYers experience with fixing into masonry walls could be avoided by avoiding the use of the screws and plugs supplied by manufacturers.  Buying some decent quality plugs and screws would be a good investment - they don't need to be a brand-name product - just better than the rubbish you often get with gadgets and shelves.

stuart45

Section62 said:

Heedtheadvice said:

Usually the screws and plugs will come with the unit.

These are usually of poor quality - particularly the screws.  Many of the problems DIYers experience with fixing into masonry walls could be avoided by avoiding the use of the screws and plugs supplied by manufacturers.  Buying some decent quality plugs and screws would be a good investment - they don't need to be a brand-name product - just better than the rubbish you often get with gadgets and shelves.

I fitted a few blinds for a customer who bought them from Dunelm. I'd say that over half of them snapped, even when screwed in by hand, so I had to ditch them all and use my own screws.

Eldi_Dos

@Section62
                     I think you are mixing up technique with 'bodge' the only thing I would take issue with Heedtheadvice's post is position of screw holes or the need for lubricant.

It is a doorbell being fitted not a handrail.