Domestic Energy Consultants?

Kikynethus

We moved to Gloucestershire in January 2025. The property is almost 250 years old and is a solid, stone walled cottage in need of extensive modernisation of the basic systems - wiring, plumbing, and wherever the two technologies cross over.

Are there any independent domestic energy consultants that won't charge us an arm and a leg for sound advice on how to best to heat/insulate and future proof our home?

Screwdriva

Why not share 2-3 images of your 1) roof 2) internal and 3) external structure (that you're comfortable sharing) on here and some of us should easily be able to share our thoughts?

Would be good to know if you have:

1) Loft insulation (assuming there is a loft) and if so, the thickness in mm?
2) Window glazing? 

3) What times of flooring exists and if you plan to install underfloor heating? 
4) I am guessing there is no internal wall insulation but would be good if this was confirmed?
5) I am also guessing one or more large log burners exist? 
6) What is the fuel used to heat the home today? Does a piped gas supply to the property exist?

Coastalwatch

I readily agree with all listed above. In addition however with it being 250 years old might it be a listed building in which case it may be establishing what classification it is in order to determine what is and isn't permissable!

Good luck with all that ensues.

greenbee

If you can, these might also be useful. 

• position (exposed hilltop with no neighbours or sheltered built-up area?)
• aspect (of both windows and roof) - where most of the windows face will give us an idea of light/exposure to cold/shade in summer, and roof aspect(s) will give ideas for solar
• roof construction - slate/clay tile/concrete tile etc
• mains water or private water supply?
• mains sewerage/cess pit/septic tank/treatment plant
• size of garden and aspect
• any outbuildings

Heedtheadvice

and you could get in touch informally with your local Planning officers and building control.

Responses will be variable accross locations but a chat might have some useful information forthcoming

Magnitio

You could start here and follow the links:

https://www.gloucester.gov.uk/housing/hmo-licences/energy-efficiency-home/

If they aren't able to help with your specific needs, they may have contacts who can.

Kikynethus

Note to self. Save draft before clicking on a link!

Sorry for the delay in responding to the comments, I didn't have notifications turned on in my account. I will try to remedy that after I've listed the information that has been requested.

The property is not listed.

To answer Screwdriva's questions:

1) Loft insulation (assuming there is a loft) and if so, the thickness in mm? 

Will all need replacing. There is loft insulation (rockwool type) but the loft is too small to be used for storage and/or flooring. You definitely couldn't stand up in it. Sloping tiled roof but like many hillside properties, it isn't a steep pitch.

2) Window glazing? 

Already double glazed but dated and all will be replaced.

3) What times of flooring exists and if you plan to install underfloor heating? 

We're leaning towards skirting heating as we have bad experiences of an underfloor system that failed requiring a tiled bathroom floor to be lifted. The current flooring is solid downstairs, floorboards upstairs.

 

4) I am guessing there is no internal wall insulation but would be good if this was confirmed? 

Correct, there is none.

5) I am also guessing one or more large log burners exist? 

Three open fires (two condemned and would need relining in order to be used) although the plan is to have just one log burner. Plenty of wood. The property is bordered by a forest to the rear and one side. It's on a sloping piece of land (around an acre) but there are no outbuildings close enough to the house (or in good enough condition) to be incorporated in the house plans.

6) What is the fuel used to heat the home today? Does a piped gas supply to the property exist?

Currently heated with the single usable open fire and electric radiators/heaters. Hot water is via an immersion heater in the bathroom. There is no mains gas.

And Greenbee's questions if they're not covered above:

• position (exposed hilltop with no neighbours or sheltered built-up area?)

High wooded slope behind us and woods to the left. Open views towards the River Severn estuary in the distance.

• aspect (of both windows and roof) - where most of the windows face will give us an idea of light/exposure to cold/shade in summer, and roof aspect(s) will give ideas for solar

The roof is typical of older properties in the area in that the pitch is quite shallow facing south east. The rear roof faces north west.

• roof construction - slate/clay tile/concrete tile etc

Tiles front and rear.

• mains water or private water supply?

Mains water supply.

• mains sewerage/cess pit/septic tank/treatment plant

Septic tank sewerage (which is being resited with a modern unit Kargester as part of the planning application)/

• size of garden and aspect

The house is sited on around 3/4 of an acre of land, mostly behind and to one side and all sloping towards the south east

• any outbuildings

None in good enough condition or close enough to the house to contain heat pumps etc.

Overview

The cottage is situated on a hillside facing south east. Woodland to north east and north west. Neighbours and track to the south west. We're at the end of a forest track accessible by light goods vehicles - coal/bottled gas deliveries and septic tank servicing is possible.

We are planning to turn the house upside down - bedrooms/bathrooms downstairs (currently solid floors), kitchen/reception upstairs (traditional joists and floor boards) in order to make the most of the incredible views.

greenbee

So mains water needs you don't need power for that.
Klargester means you DO need power (I have a pumped septic system, and the pump has just failed, tripping the switch breaker for the outbuilding - I only noticed because I tried to turn on the light when getting logs).

Woodland is important because of potential shading. I have a wood to my east, so haven't bothered to put anything on the east-facing roof. I have some shading on the east side of the south-facing roof, so have optimisers there. Good to know you have woodland to the north of you providing some shelter!

Size of plot gives you options for siting an ASHP so that you minimise the sound reflecting off hard surfaces, and an idea of whether a GSHP is an option (although this is less popular).

Outbuildings give you the option for additional solar

Tiles are generally easier when it comes to solar, although it does depend on the condition of the tiles and the roof - installers have to take into account whether the roof can take the additional weight, and some tiles may be broken so it's an idea to have spares (and if they are newer, to make sure replacements go under the panels - particularly as @screwdriva recommends painting the roof to maximise production). 

It sounds like a fantastic project.

Screwdriva

Kikynethus said:

To answer Screwdriva's questions:

Based on your responses, I would recommend:

1) Loft insulation (400mm) using double Knauf 40 (not the readily available but less capable 44) rolls.

2) Triple glazing windows - Ideally on aluminum frames. Get quotes from 3-5 installers and pick the lowest U Value for the lowest price. The price premium to double glazing is now < 20%.

3) I would seriously reconsider underfloor heating as it will deliver far more heat than skirting and enable #6) below.

4) I would ensure that your builder uses the Kingspan insulated plasterboards (and roof boards) across the property. Go for the maximum thickness you can afford/ incorporate.

5) I would seal the condemned fireplaces to block thermal entry/ exit. Keep the existing fireplace as a backup heating source in the unlikely event your local grid goes down.

6) As you lack mains gas, I would consider a cascaded Air to Water heat pump to heat the property, but only if you decide to go with the underfloor heating. Even with 1)-5) above, I wouldn't risk radiators or skirting on the ground floor for this type of property. The heat pump would provide hot water for UFH, floor to ceiling towel rails and large K3 radiators upstairs. In my experience, this should only be installed by a Heat Geek (can come with a 400% efficiency guarantee aka a guaranteed SCOP of 4), or Octopus Energy as a distant second, should no Heat Geek installer be available in your area.

If this is a hard no, your next best option may just be a combination of a 10kW multi split Air to Air heat pump (heats upto 5 rooms), electric towel rails for the bathrooms and a heat pump hot water cylinder like the Mixergy iHp. If you design the internal ducting correctly, you can divert the cool exhaust air into the home in the summer months for an aircon effect while drawing the warmest air into the cylinder from the loft.

I would not consider Oil, LPG (Calor), bottles gas etc. given these options.

7) Solar + Battery can easily be installed independent to all of the above provided the building is not listed. Ideally, you want this to power #6) as much as possible. 

Most of the above are aimed at reducing your property's heat loss to the point where 50 degree (or lower) flow temperatures are realistically achievable from whatever heat emitter you go with. The lower the heat loss + the more inexpensive power your property generates/ stores, the lower your lifetime running costs and more comfortable life in your new home will be! 

greenbee

Agree with Screwdriva on the UFH and big rads on the 1st floor. I have a mix (not my choice) of rads and UFH on the ground floor, and rads on the 1st floor and have been replacing all rads with larger ones (and massive towel rails) and as much 15mm pipework as possible with 22mm. I still have an oil boiler, but after the latest round of work I think i am probably close to being ready to switch to ASHP as all the rads are on 1 or 2 (until the plumber is done and I can lower the boiler flow temp when he’s not looking!). With the towel rails, consider dual fuel (particularly if you are installing solar) so that you can run them when it’s sunny without having to run the heating. I have 3 electric only and one dual fuel (recent replacement), which means towels get dry in summer.

i’m not so much of a fan of aluminium windows - I have a mix of wooden on the old bit of the house and aluminium on the back. I’ve had problems with the fit of one set of double doors (will need replacing as it has been improved but can’t be fixed) and I get condensation on the bottom of the inside of the frame of all the full height doors and windows, so investigate carefully. 

Martyn1981

I'm with Screwdriva on the A2A heat source, especially now that there's a £2.5k subsidy towards it. Nothing wrong with a full ASHP A2W system, especially if it's a nice rebuild, allowing for optimisation, but the ability to remove rads (or skirting heating), and all that water piping is very tempting.

I spent almost a year pondering a HP HW tank for our house, more because I wanted one than needed one. But eventually went for standard SS HW tank, as the HP cost difference made no sense for our small DHW needs (~2kWh per day). I was also a tad concerned about the fan noise, as we'd have to place it in the spare bedroom, close to the party wall. But that said, we found some excellent options from Tesy, starting at £1k, with more expensive models able to also run a small CH circuit or underfloor circuit, from an integral heat exchanger. So that's a nice option.

Regarding triple glazing, going to be a tad pedantic here, and I don't think it's a massive issue, but TG on E and N facing windows is best, but DG on S and W may be better, to optimise solar gain. Some maths and calcs needed, but the reduced losses from TG may be exceeded by the reduced solar gain on S & E. However, never that easy, TG will also help reduce excessive solar gain in the summer, so horses for courses.

Reading a bit into what you've said, sounds like you have decent south(ish) facing roof for PV? Also, as you have a bit of land, and again limited shading to the south, then a PV ground mount may be worth considering, as it can be steeply pitched (~60d) to boost winter generation, and help contribute, a bit, towards winter energy demand. I'd also suggest that you may be suitable for battery storage, especially if you have PV, as that will help with 24hr demand, such as the septic tank, and allow for winter charging from the grid, at cheaper rates, to power the leccy heating during the day.

The economics of batts are still marginal, but improving all the time, but as mentioned, your potential energy production, and energy demand, may make them sensible/viable for you.