Laying LVT click flooring

GDB2222

I want to lay some LVT click flooring in the kitchen of an old Victorian property, and I need advice on how level the floor needs to be, please. 

It's a wooden floor. Fairly ropey! I'll lay thin plywood on top of the floor, but I'm concerned that the underlying floor joists are not level. I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? And, I worry that the click joints will open up.


  

Famau

I've just had LVT click together SPC fitted (estilo hardcore - more durable).  Accommodates a fair bit of flex and I'd think you'd be OK with that, though depends, of course, on just how much movement there is.    

danrv

GDB2222 said:

I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? 

Using some self levelling compound should help get that level. Easy to check with a straight edge.
Just make sure the surface is primed first.

grumpy_codger

danrv said:

GDB2222 said:

I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? 

Using some self levelling compound should help get that level. Easy to check with a straight edge.
Just make sure the surface is primed first.

Self levelling compound on top of floorboards? I don't think so.

grumpy_codger

GDB2222 said:

I want to lay some LVT click flooring in the kitchen of an old Victorian property, and I need advice on how level the floor needs to be, please. 

It's a wooden floor. Fairly ropey! I'll lay thin plywood on top of the floor, but I'm concerned that the underlying floor joists are not level. I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? And, I worry that the click joints will open up.

If the joists are really uneven, I'd consider replacing timber floorboards with good tongue&grove chipboards and adding some packers where needed. Also you can use this opportunity to add some insulation between the joists if there is no any.
Use good quality moisture resistant 'green' boards.

danrv

grumpy_codger said:

danrv said:

GDB2222 said:

I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? 

Using some self levelling compound should help get that level. Easy to check with a straight edge.
Just make sure the surface is primed first.

Self levelling compound on top of floorboards? I don't think so.

On top of the ply.

GDB2222

danrv said:

grumpy_codger said:

danrv said:

GDB2222 said:

I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? 

Using some self levelling compound should help get that level. Easy to check with a straight edge.
Just make sure the surface is primed first.

Self levelling compound on top of floorboards? I don't think so.

On top of the ply.

Prime the plywood with pva before adding the self levelling? 

WIAWSNB

How flexible is self-levelling?
GDB, how level it needs to be should be described in the fitting instructions for the flooring. 
Is the kitchen empty - ie units and everything removed? Or are you working around them?
If the former, then I think it's worth considering what Grumpy said. It's easy to level the actual joists - a straight edge across them, and thin timber strips to lay on and pack out. Then insulation - you'll never regret that - and green chipboard.
Laying the 'click' will then be a dream. Yes, clearly more work, but perfectly DIYable, and you'll feel really good about a job very well done.

danrv

GDB2222 said:

danrv said:

grumpy_codger said:

danrv said:

GDB2222 said:

I assume that the plywood will follow the joists, when screwed down, unless I do something to pack it out? 

Using some self levelling compound should help get that level. Easy to check with a straight edge.
Just make sure the surface is primed first.

Self levelling compound on top of floorboards? I don't think so.

On top of the ply.

Prime the plywood with pva before adding the self levelling? 

Not PVA. Bostik Universal Primer or Mapei Eco Prim Grip Plus would do. The Bostik should be diluted for porous substrates. Not sure about the Mapei.

If the current floorboards are uneven and creaky, it would be best, as mentioned to renew the floor.
Otherwise it could be quite difficult to pull the plywood in to make up the gaps.
I replaced the old water damaged floor in my bathroom with P5 green grade moisture resistant 18mm chipboard.