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Can you rule out dry rot from visual and historical observation?
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 One air brick at the front is unlikely to be enough ventilation. You generally need them on opposite walls to give a good cross flow of air.indielad said:There is an airbrick at the front of the house for floor ventilation.
 I'm using Peter Cox, where the damproofing is under guarantee, I'm hoping that will be a dissuading factor for unnecessary work!
 I know it is not dry rot. I am trying to proof this to the overeactive bank surveyor this. Like trying to convince a hypochondriac a cough isn't lung cancer I read somewhere that it can be ruled out with infrared sensors detecting temperature differences in the floor. I'm not sure how accurate that is.
 The only way to inspect the sub floor timbers properly is to lift the floor boards.
 Dry rot spores will germinate where the conditions are right for it. The timber needs the moisture content to be at a certain level, as well as the air temperature to be right. Once it's germinated and started growing it can travel around more than wet rot, which tends to stay in the wet areas.1
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 there are several large air vents about 2 inches on the underside of my lounge floor which are connected to my cellar wall. There will be air coming in from my cellar. Is this sufficent?stuart45 said:
 One air brick at the front is unlikely to be enough ventilation. You generally need them on opposite walls to give a good cross flow of air.indielad said:There is an airbrick at the front of the house for floor ventilation.
 I'm using Peter Cox, where the damproofing is under guarantee, I'm hoping that will be a dissuading factor for unnecessary work!
 I know it is not dry rot. I am trying to proof this to the overeactive bank surveyor this. Like trying to convince a hypochondriac a cough isn't lung cancer I read somewhere that it can be ruled out with infrared sensors detecting temperature differences in the floor. I'm not sure how accurate that is.
 The only way to inspect the sub floor timbers properly is to lift the floor boards.
 Dry rot spores will germinate where the conditions are right for it. The timber needs the moisture content to be at a certain level, as well as the air temperature to be right. Once it's germinated and started growing it can travel around more than wet rot, which tends to stay in the wet areas.
 So you're saying that dry rot can only be ruled out invasively? Why don't they do that as part of the report then?0
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 I should explain it a bit better really. I have a cellar under my kitchen, which is walled up up to the last 2 inches. My lounge is next to it, where it has an airbrick to the front and air will be coming in from the gap inthe cellar at the back. There is no evidence of damp or mould under the floorboards of the kitchen, which you can access underneath from the cellarstuart45 said:
 One air brick at the front is unlikely to be enough ventilation. You generally need them on opposite walls to give a good cross flow of air.indielad said:There is an airbrick at the front of the house for floor ventilation.
 I'm using Peter Cox, where the damproofing is under guarantee, I'm hoping that will be a dissuading factor for unnecessary work!
 I know it is not dry rot. I am trying to proof this to the overeactive bank surveyor this. Like trying to convince a hypochondriac a cough isn't lung cancer I read somewhere that it can be ruled out with infrared sensors detecting temperature differences in the floor. I'm not sure how accurate that is.
 The only way to inspect the sub floor timbers properly is to lift the floor boards.
 Dry rot spores will germinate where the conditions are right for it. The timber needs the moisture content to be at a certain level, as well as the air temperature to be right. Once it's germinated and started growing it can travel around more than wet rot, which tends to stay in the wet areas.0
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 Surveys are non invasive unless the buyer asks for one and the seller agrees.indielad said:
 there are several large air vents about 2 inches on the underside of my lounge floor which are connected to my cellar wall. There will be air coming in from my cellar. Is this sufficent?stuart45 said:
 One air brick at the front is unlikely to be enough ventilation. You generally need them on opposite walls to give a good cross flow of air.indielad said:There is an airbrick at the front of the house for floor ventilation.
 I'm using Peter Cox, where the damproofing is under guarantee, I'm hoping that will be a dissuading factor for unnecessary work!
 I know it is not dry rot. I am trying to proof this to the overeactive bank surveyor this. Like trying to convince a hypochondriac a cough isn't lung cancer I read somewhere that it can be ruled out with infrared sensors detecting temperature differences in the floor. I'm not sure how accurate that is.
 The only way to inspect the sub floor timbers properly is to lift the floor boards.
 Dry rot spores will germinate where the conditions are right for it. The timber needs the moisture content to be at a certain level, as well as the air temperature to be right. Once it's germinated and started growing it can travel around more than wet rot, which tends to stay in the wet areas.
 So you're saying that dry rot can only be ruled out invasively? Why don't they do that as part of the report then?
 Without being on site it's difficult to be sure if your ventilation under the lounge is sufficient.
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