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Surely not just an immersion heater?
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It’s set to 60, doesn’t seem to go any higher if I turn it right.
in case of any consequence, with the hot water set to on on the control panel if I try to move the lever on the motorised valve right it reverts to auto. Not sure if it should or not!!0 -
totsa123 said:I’ve just checked - it’s set to auto with the other end being ‘man open’0
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Also turn the thermostat on the tank up - the knob on the box just round from the immersion. The lever on the valve should return to auto when released but you can lock it in manual with the little catch in the slot - it should be stiffish and whirr when moving to manual then whirr when returning to auto. If DHW is selected to heat and the tank is not hot then the lever should be floppy as the motor should be holding the valve open. Not sure if that particular valve motor head makes the open microswitch in manual some brands do, some don't..0
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molerat said:Also turn the thermostat on the tank up - the knob on the box just round from the immersion. The lever on the valve should return to auto when released but you can lock it in manual with the little catch in the slot - it should be stiffish and whirr when moving to manual then whirr when returning to auto. If DHW is selected to heat and the tank is not hot then the lever should be floppy as the motor should be holding the valve open. Not sure if that particular valve motor head makes the open microswitch in manual some brands do, some don't..
When i tried the lever, the hot water was on to heat but the lever was definitely not floppy - it was stiffish as you describe. Is this a fault do you think or just a signal that there is lots of hot water in the tank? i find it hard to believe we are still running on what was heated up yesterday with the immersion heater as there have been 3 showers and several rounds of washing up etc since then but (as I am sure is clear) I know nothing about this so could be very wrong!!0 -
If you twiddle the tank stat does it click ?0
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It's a large tank at a high temperature, so could last several days. Once you've got it working you need to keep turning the target temperature down until it still meets your needs. It will save a lot of gas. Similarly, you want the flow/return temperature from the boiler as low as possible, too, to get maximum condensing effect.3
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Which means it should be calling for heat when set to 65. As a quick test set the valve to manual by clicking the lever in to the notch and select heating on, that should push heat through to the tank and you should feel the pipe the tank side of the valve getting hot. Then you need to get back on to the builders and hopefully they will send one who is not an idiot.1
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molerat said:Which means it should be calling for heat when set to 65. As a quick test set the valve to manual by clicking the lever in to the notch and select heating on, that should push heat through to the tank and you should feel the pipe the tank side of the valve getting hot. Then you need to get back on to the builders and hopefully they will send one who is not an idiot.0
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totsa123 said:molerat said:Which means it should be calling for heat when set to 65. As a quick test set the valve to manual by clicking the lever in to the notch and select heating on, that should push heat through to the tank and you should feel the pipe the tank side of the valve getting hot. Then you need to get back on to the builders and hopefully they will send one who is not an idiot.It may do depending on the motor head type (and if the wiring is correct !) but if you switch heating on that will send the water through the open valve and prove the water side is working.In basic terms the controller sends a signal through the tank stat to open the valve, the valve then sends a signal to the boiler to heat the circuit. Tank gets hot, cuts power to valve and motor is spring returned to close, microswitch breaks and shuts boiler down. Depending on the motor head type setting to manual may send the signal to the boiler, and as I said, some do some don't.1
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