Boarding the loft - tradesman has left the edges?

WIAWSNB

grumpy_codger said:

WIAWSNB said:

youth_leader said:

I believe my son is also having a positive input ventilation unit installed, I have one here at the bungalow and it has reduced the condensation here to almost nothing. I also had two 'ventilation tiles' in the east facing side of my concrete tiled roof. Should I recommend this to my son too?  I'll probably have to pay for it!

....
PIV must surely cost in energy loss, as it's a catch-all, with house air being expelled regardless of whether the room is badly effected. And then there's the installation cost....

Installation - yes, but in a good system with heat recovery energy loss can be minimal because of the heat exchange between the  air pumped in and going out. As a result, with a good heat exchanger, the incoming air can theoretically have the same temperature as the air leaving the house. 

ETA: the above picture doesn't show well how heat recovery works. In fact directions of two flows it the heat exchanger are opposite:

And not as costly as I suspected either. But I'd personally still only install a PIV if normal measures failed.

Emmia

WIAWSNB said:

youth_leader said:

I believe my son is also having a positive input ventilation unit installed, I have one here at the bungalow and it has reduced the condensation here to almost nothing. I also had two 'ventilation tiles' in the east facing side of my concrete tiled roof. Should I recommend this to my son too?  I'll probably have to pay for it!

Ha-ha! 
I have no personal experience if PIV, but pretty much every report I've read - usually on here - have been good.
However, my personal take on the condensation malarkey is that the vast majority of cases can be controlled by normal proper room ventilation. For instance, overnight condie can be pretty much eliminated by having windows cracked open all night, and using a good duvet to keep warm - an all-night leccy blanket if needed.
PIV must surely cost in energy loss, as it's a catch-all, with house air being expelled regardless of whether the room is badly effected. And then there's the installation cost.
I'd only fit one if all other approaches failed.

Having windows cracked open at night relies on having a window design that allows this... We have pretty large sash windows and it would be an absolute !!!!!! to open them a crack, and I'd be surprised if they stayed like that overnight.

youth_leader

@Emmia, when I bought the bungalow I assumed the vendor had the window keys - unfortunately not, I had to get every handle changed.  I do lock the tiny windows at the front slightly open at night, but am nervous to do it with the larger windows at the back.  I had never appreciated how the chimneys on my open fires helped the house to breathe, as well as the draughty single sash windows.  We used to have the top of the sash window open sometimes but the rattling was irritating - I used to lay a long 'neck' warmer on the catch to deaden the sound.

Emmia

youth_leader said:

@Emmia, when I bought the bungalow I assumed the vendor had the window keys - unfortunately not, I had to get every handle changed.  I do lock the tiny windows at the front slightly open at night, but am nervous to do it with the larger windows at the back.  I had never appreciated how the chimneys on my open fires helped the house to breathe, as well as the draughty single sash windows.  We used to have the top of the sash window open sometimes but the rattling was irritating - I used to lay a long 'neck' warmer on the catch to deaden the sound.

It's not that ours rattle, it's that even after refurbishment they're large, heavy and very stiff - it can take two of us to close the top pane (we're ground floor so opening the bottom is not great from a security perspective). They're sprung sash windows rather than traditional corded versions.

Grandad2b

Emmia said:

WIAWSNB said:

youth_leader said:

I believe my son is also having a positive input ventilation unit installed, I have one here at the bungalow and it has reduced the condensation here to almost nothing. I also had two 'ventilation tiles' in the east facing side of my concrete tiled roof. Should I recommend this to my son too?  I'll probably have to pay for it!

Ha-ha! 
I have no personal experience if PIV, but pretty much every report I've read - usually on here - have been good.
However, my personal take on the condensation malarkey is that the vast majority of cases can be controlled by normal proper room ventilation. For instance, overnight condie can be pretty much eliminated by having windows cracked open all night, and using a good duvet to keep warm - an all-night leccy blanket if needed.
PIV must surely cost in energy loss, as it's a catch-all, with house air being expelled regardless of whether the room is badly effected. And then there's the installation cost.
I'd only fit one if all other approaches failed.

Having windows cracked open at night relies on having a window design that allows this... We have pretty large sash windows and it would be an absolute !!!!!! to open them a crack, and I'd be surprised if they stayed like that overnight.

For myself and possibly many other people that would be a complete no-no for two reasons - traffic noise and pollen. Anyone who advocates leaving windows open between March and September is going on the ignore list.

Emmia

Grandad2b said:

Emmia said:

WIAWSNB said:

youth_leader said:

I believe my son is also having a positive input ventilation unit installed, I have one here at the bungalow and it has reduced the condensation here to almost nothing. I also had two 'ventilation tiles' in the east facing side of my concrete tiled roof. Should I recommend this to my son too?  I'll probably have to pay for it!

Ha-ha! 
I have no personal experience if PIV, but pretty much every report I've read - usually on here - have been good.
However, my personal take on the condensation malarkey is that the vast majority of cases can be controlled by normal proper room ventilation. For instance, overnight condie can be pretty much eliminated by having windows cracked open all night, and using a good duvet to keep warm - an all-night leccy blanket if needed.
PIV must surely cost in energy loss, as it's a catch-all, with house air being expelled regardless of whether the room is badly effected. And then there's the installation cost.
I'd only fit one if all other approaches failed.

Having windows cracked open at night relies on having a window design that allows this... We have pretty large sash windows and it would be an absolute !!!!!! to open them a crack, and I'd be surprised if they stayed like that overnight.

For myself and possibly many other people that would be a complete no-no for two reasons - traffic noise and pollen. Anyone who advocates leaving windows open between March and September is going on the ignore list.

I'm not advocating it - but it's something @WIAWSNB often advocates.