Skirting Mitres - Scribed/Coping Saw Method

FrankRizzo

rob7475 said:

The gap looks pretty consistent in the circled picture which would suggest your mitre is straight. How are you cutting the straight bit of skirting before you get to the profile at the top? It looks to me like you're overcutting into the skirting slightly - are you allowing for the blade thickness when cutting?

Honestly though, it's not a bad joint. If you are painting it, some decent caulk will easily sort the gap.

Thanks for your help.

I am cutting the straight bit (circled) with a jigsaw and allowing the blade thickness, so only cutting off the non finished part of the mitre.

i have done about 5 test cuts and made sure I took my time accurately cut along the edge.

FrankRizzo

HHarry said:

FrankRizzo said:

HP_Source said:

A mitre joint is only likely to work well if everything is perfect - the walls are at a true 90 degrees and are both vertical. For internal corners using a scribed joint is far more forgiving of the sort of situations you meet in reality. There are multiple videos on youtube showing how it's done. 

Thanks but it’s not a mitre joint, it’s been scribed and cut with a coping saw. 

Your third photo in the first post shows a mitre.

Yes that’s correct.

The 45 degree bevel has been scribed and carefully cut with a coping saw.

stuart45

Try doing the cut with a fine toothed handsaw instead of the jigsaw.

FrankRizzo

stuart45 said:

Try doing the cut with a fine toothed handsaw instead of the jigsaw.

Thanks I will try - why would that make a difference when the piece is being cut off anyway and as long as the finished scribed edge isn’t cut into? 

stuart45

Some chippies use a jigsaw, others a handsaw. For me, who isn't a chippie, I use a handsaw. I find it easier to give it a slight backcut as well with the handsaw.
However, I suppose it makes no difference as long as you aren't cutting into the scribe.

HHarry

So you cut a mitre to give you the line to cut with the coping saw, and then told both myself & HPSource that you hadn’t used a mitre when we tried to help?

My point stands - assuming your room is true, your mitre saw doesn’t need to be very far out to introduce an error.

FreeBear

HHarry said:

So you cut a mitre to give you the line to cut with the coping saw, and then told both myself & HPSource that you hadn’t used a mitre when we tried to help?

My point stands - assuming your room is true, your mitre saw doesn’t need to be very far out to introduce an error.

Cut the end of the board at 45° with a mitre block (or saw). Then cut away the waste (as per images below). The joint ends up being scribed, not mitred.

From https://charliediyte.co.uk/blog/blog/skirtinginternalcorners