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Should a decorator be able / willing to remove a picture rail and make good?

silvercar
Posts: 49,264 Ambassador



1930s house with a wide (9cm) picture rail with attached architrave below it. I guess it was designed for displaying plates rather than hanging pictures.
It needs removing as part of a revamp of the room. I’m having some fitted units built and so it is in the way of the units. The designer has got a quote from a plasterer for its removal and make good, plasterers are difficult to find in my area, so the price is high, I’m wondering if this is something that a competent decorator should be able to do.
I don’t know how it’s attached, or I might attempt the removal myself, to save some of the cost.
It needs removing as part of a revamp of the room. I’m having some fitted units built and so it is in the way of the units. The designer has got a quote from a plasterer for its removal and make good, plasterers are difficult to find in my area, so the price is high, I’m wondering if this is something that a competent decorator should be able to do.
I don’t know how it’s attached, or I might attempt the removal myself, to save some of the cost.
I'm a Forum Ambassador on the housing, mortgages & student money saving boards. I volunteer to help get your forum questions answered and keep the forum running smoothly. Forum Ambassadors are not moderators and don't read every post. If you spot an illegal or inappropriate post then please report it to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com (it's not part of my role to deal with this). Any views are mine and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.com.
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If it’s anything like the 1930s house I moved out of last year it will be nailed in place, and chunks of plaster will come away with the nails. Not large enough to require a plaster I filled the holes myself when I removed some.0
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If it's going behind a cabinet do you care if they make good? Presumably you just removing it where it will go behind the new cabinetry rather than remove it all?
Its one of those things that doesnt really fit to any particular trade so a range of people can potentially do it but its also a small job so many won't be interested in travelling to you etc for a small sum.1 -
DullGreyGuy said:If it's going behind a cabinet do you care if they make good? Presumably you just removing it where it will go behind the new cabinetry rather than remove it all?
Its one of those things that doesnt really fit to any particular trade so a range of people can potentially do it but its also a small job so many won't be interested in travelling to you etc for a small sum.
Even if he was only removing at the units likely would run into having to fit to it on the side wall0 -
If the room has ever been reskimmed, then good chance the main walls will be at a slightly higher level that the strip above the rail. That would make it more tricky to blend once removed.
But, yes, a half decent PD should be able to make good any damage from it's removal. It's just normal hole-filling.
Get two or more recommended PDs around to view and quote, and listen to what they say. Ideally they'll have done something similar before, so should be able to relate the pros and cons.
Obviously don't bother making good where the units will go. And, are you certain you want to remove the rest?
Any chance of a photo, both wide and close up?1 -
WIAWSNB said:If the room has ever been reskimmed, then good chance the main walls will be at a slightly higher level that the strip above the rail. That would make it more tricky to blend once removed.
But, yes, a half decent PD should be able to make good any damage from it's removal. It's just normal hole-filling.
Get two or more recommended PDs around to view and quote, and listen to what they say. Ideally they'll have done something similar before, so should be able to relate the pros and cons.
Obviously don't bother making good where the units will go. And, are you certain you want to remove the rest?
Any chance of a photo, both wide and close up?It’s going to look odd if we don’t remove the rest. I may have been tempted if it was a shallow picture rail, but this is deep.I'm a Forum Ambassador on the housing, mortgages & student money saving boards. I volunteer to help get your forum questions answered and keep the forum running smoothly. Forum Ambassadors are not moderators and don't read every post. If you spot an illegal or inappropriate post then please report it to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com (it's not part of my role to deal with this). Any views are mine and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.com.1 -
Caveat - the main wall has been painted an off white - it’s not dirt! I can see that above the rail is some wall paper/ finish that is also on the ceiling.
I'm a Forum Ambassador on the housing, mortgages & student money saving boards. I volunteer to help get your forum questions answered and keep the forum running smoothly. Forum Ambassadors are not moderators and don't read every post. If you spot an illegal or inappropriate post then please report it to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com (it's not part of my role to deal with this). Any views are mine and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.com.1 -
silvercar said:Caveat - the main wall has been painted an off white - it’s not dirt! I can see that above the rail is some wall paper/ finish that is also on the ceiling.That's an unexpectedly large difference in wall thickness - no idea why.As for the moulding - are you sure they aren't made up of two separate rails? The lower moulding looks very similar to conventional 'picture rail' from the '30's.0
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WIAWSNB said:silvercar said:Caveat - the main wall has been painted an off white - it’s not dirt! I can see that above the rail is some wall paper/ finish that is also on the ceiling.That's an unexpectedly large difference in wall thickness - no idea why.As for the moulding - are you sure they aren't made up of two separate rails? The lower moulding looks very similar to conventional 'picture rail' from the '30's.0
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The main reason for using two pieces (if it is) would be that the overall moulding is large and would need a large section of timber, much of which would be cut away or be waste. The amount to be removed by moulding plane (or spindle moulder) could be reduced by making two plunge cuts first (by saw) to remove a rectangular or square section from one of the corners, but you'd still need to start with the large section of timber and deal with the potential issues of warp and twist.Designs for mouldings were fairly formulaic - there were pattern books showing the different styles. So it is easy to see an element in one moulding which looks near identical to another.1
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If its original plaster, be prepared for swathes to fall away. Try tapping on the wall above and below the picture rail, if it sounds hollow, the plaster there is likely no longer attached to the wall, and instead is only held be the adjacent plaster surrounding it. I replaced window boards recently, and just removing them caused all the plaster below to just fall away. Luckily I was having the room replastered anyway, so I just boarded those areas ready for the plaster.0
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