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Used car vs engine replacement
Comments
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Clownfish68 said:WellKnownSid said:What is the "actual" problem with the car? What are the symptoms? What are you experiencing?
Please be aware that the cry of "it needs a new engine / gearbox / expensive component" is the very first thing all garages will tell you when they cannot be ar5ed bothered to diagnose an issue. Do you have an actual diagnosis from a garage with access to VIDA?
Most engines burn oil in later life - especially with low-friction rings and extended service intervals. Many warranties (looking at you, Skoda) actually deliberately exclude this in their cover
What you're really saying is "for the small sum of your car plus all of your savings plus just £4,000-odd a year on top you won't have to worry about spending any more money on your car".
If the aim is to get a shiny new car then feel free - just putting this into context, especially if you are over-egging the repair bill. Not saying you are, or that there is anything wrong with wanting a newer car, just putting it out there.0 -
WellKnownSid said:Clownfish68 said:WellKnownSid said:What is the "actual" problem with the car? What are the symptoms? What are you experiencing?
Please be aware that the cry of "it needs a new engine / gearbox / expensive component" is the very first thing all garages will tell you when they cannot be ar5ed bothered to diagnose an issue. Do you have an actual diagnosis from a garage with access to VIDA?
Most engines burn oil in later life - especially with low-friction rings and extended service intervals. Many warranties (looking at you, Skoda) actually deliberately exclude this in their cover
What you're really saying is "for the small sum of your car plus all of your savings plus just £4,000-odd a year on top you won't have to worry about spending any more money on your car".
If the aim is to get a shiny new car then feel free - just putting this into context, especially if you are over-egging the repair bill. Not saying you are, or that there is anything wrong with wanting a newer car, just putting it out there.0 -
Goudy said:If it has the dreaded Volvo oil control ring problem, a used engine is just asking for more trouble.
I wouldn't throw any money at an unknown engine.
If there's still some value in it as a trade in, it might be wise to move it on.
Instead of a diesel, have you considered something like a Toyota Corolla Hybrid Touring?
You'll get near diesel mpg out of them and they tend to be pretty much bulletproof.
They came with one of two different batteries, Nickel Metal Hydride or Lithium Ion.
The NiMH tend to be good for 160,000 miles or so before they drop off but the Li-ion can last much longer.
One of their only weak points is the electric water pump can break up inside anywhere past 100k.
Cheap and easy fix and the cars onboard diagnostics will warn you when it starts going.0 -
Had same V60, same issues. Engine replaced under goodwill at 28k miles, I think they upgraded the oil control rings around 2017, clutch replaced under goodwill at 30k miles.
Alarm siren replaced with Mazda/landrover unit £15 from eBay, brake discs and pads replaced by me, <£200? (easy - rear calipers wind back using 9v battery).
Engine symptoms started to reappear around 60k miles and rear door locks failed so offloaded to a we buy any car type place.0 -
chrisw said:Had same V60, same issues. Engine replaced under goodwill at 28k miles, I think they upgraded the oil control rings around 2017, clutch replaced under goodwill at 30k miles.
Alarm siren replaced with Mazda/landrover unit £15 from eBay, brake discs and pads replaced by me, <£200? (easy - rear calipers wind back using 9v battery).
Engine symptoms started to reappear around 60k miles and rear door locks failed so offloaded to a we buy any car type place.0 -
Clownfish68 said:WellKnownSid said:Clownfish68 said:WellKnownSid said:What is the "actual" problem with the car? What are the symptoms? What are you experiencing?
Please be aware that the cry of "it needs a new engine / gearbox / expensive component" is the very first thing all garages will tell you when they cannot be ar5ed bothered to diagnose an issue. Do you have an actual diagnosis from a garage with access to VIDA?
Most engines burn oil in later life - especially with low-friction rings and extended service intervals. Many warranties (looking at you, Skoda) actually deliberately exclude this in their cover
What you're really saying is "for the small sum of your car plus all of your savings plus just £4,000-odd a year on top you won't have to worry about spending any more money on your car".
If the aim is to get a shiny new car then feel free - just putting this into context, especially if you are over-egging the repair bill. Not saying you are, or that there is anything wrong with wanting a newer car, just putting it out there.
You went in with an engine light and a lack of power. The engine is obviously burning oil - they've tested it and it obviously is in the range of cars affected. That doesn't mean that this is the cause of the problem, just that they have identified an issue and refuse to diagnose it any further. Quote customer £10-12,000. Customer goes away.
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Clownfish68 said:Goudy said:If it has the dreaded Volvo oil control ring problem, a used engine is just asking for more trouble.
I wouldn't throw any money at an unknown engine.
If there's still some value in it as a trade in, it might be wise to move it on.
Instead of a diesel, have you considered something like a Toyota Corolla Hybrid Touring?
You'll get near diesel mpg out of them and they tend to be pretty much bulletproof.
They came with one of two different batteries, Nickel Metal Hydride or Lithium Ion.
The NiMH tend to be good for 160,000 miles or so before they drop off but the Li-ion can last much longer.
One of their only weak points is the electric water pump can break up inside anywhere past 100k.
Cheap and easy fix and the cars onboard diagnostics will warn you when it starts going.
It's almost a perfect slogger on the motorway and a treat to drive through towns and cities.
OK they are not the most inspiring of drives, but that's not their thing.
The way the CVT gearbox and electric motor work is a vast improvement over the older generation Toyota Hybrids. There's more of a direct drive feeling over the revvy, laggy old CVT set up, though there still is a little bit but you soon get used to it.
MPG is very good, I don't think I could do better in a diesel of the same size.
High 50's on the motorway and I wasn't hanging about and through the city they were stubborn and always tried to run on electric as much as they could.
Comfort is fine. I didn't take much notice of the trim level but suspect they were base Icon models with 16" rims, but they weren't lacking in equipment.
I always found Toyotas to be a bit stiff and harsh on the road, but they were no bother, better than my own car which has 17" rims.
I'm not 100% which engine version they were, I suspect 1.8 litres versions rather than the 2 litre ones.
Still perfectly adequate on todays roads and motorways.
After a couple of days, you stop thinking, it's a Hybrid. It's just a pretty solid, economical, comfortable automatic car that's a breeze to drive.
Toyota have taken this Hybrid drive system and made is sort of normal.
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