Used car vs engine replacement

2»

Comments

  • WellKnownSid
    WellKnownSid Posts: 1,840 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    What is the "actual" problem with the car?  What are the symptoms?  What are you experiencing?

    Please be aware that the cry of "it needs a new engine / gearbox / expensive component" is the very first thing all garages will tell you when they cannot be ar5ed bothered to diagnose an issue.  Do you have an actual diagnosis from a garage with access to VIDA?

    Most engines burn oil in later life - especially with low-friction rings and extended service intervals.  Many warranties (looking at you, Skoda) actually deliberately exclude this in their cover ;)

    What you're really saying is "for the small sum of your car plus all of your savings plus just £4,000-odd a year on top you won't have to worry about spending any more money on your car".

    If the aim is to get a shiny new car then feel free - just putting this into context, especially if you are over-egging the repair bill.  Not saying you are, or that there is anything wrong with wanting a newer car, just putting it out there.
    Somewhat unknown. My garage thought it was DPF for a short period i was doing more local driving with previous job (10miles vs 100now to work). After taken it to volvo they have said most likely pistons/head gasket. Ive later found out its a very common issue with this car. Volvo quoted 8-10k with other work.  
    What were the symptoms - out of wild curiosity?
  • Clownfish68
    Clownfish68 Posts: 42 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 10 Posts
    What is the "actual" problem with the car?  What are the symptoms?  What are you experiencing?

    Please be aware that the cry of "it needs a new engine / gearbox / expensive component" is the very first thing all garages will tell you when they cannot be ar5ed bothered to diagnose an issue.  Do you have an actual diagnosis from a garage with access to VIDA?

    Most engines burn oil in later life - especially with low-friction rings and extended service intervals.  Many warranties (looking at you, Skoda) actually deliberately exclude this in their cover ;)

    What you're really saying is "for the small sum of your car plus all of your savings plus just £4,000-odd a year on top you won't have to worry about spending any more money on your car".

    If the aim is to get a shiny new car then feel free - just putting this into context, especially if you are over-egging the repair bill.  Not saying you are, or that there is anything wrong with wanting a newer car, just putting it out there.
    Somewhat unknown. My garage thought it was DPF for a short period i was doing more local driving with previous job (10miles vs 100now to work). After taken it to volvo they have said most likely pistons/head gasket. Ive later found out its a very common issue with this car. Volvo quoted 8-10k with other work.  
    What were the symptoms - out of wild curiosity?
    Engine light came on. Cleaned dpf as that had a bit of dirt but never bad. Then started to have a lack of power only as i pulled off very occasionally. Serviced november and then topped up more recently so took if to get a recall sorted and asked volvo to look at it and then did the test and confirmed its burning oil. Sadly only way to know is pull the engine but most things i have read have said replace the engine rather than just the part. 
  • Clownfish68
    Clownfish68 Posts: 42 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 10 Posts
    Goudy said:
    If it has the dreaded Volvo oil control ring problem, a used engine is just asking for more trouble.
    I wouldn't throw any money at an unknown engine.

    If there's still some value in it as a trade in, it might be wise to move it on.

    Instead of a diesel, have you considered something like a Toyota Corolla Hybrid Touring?
    You'll get near diesel mpg out of them and they tend to be pretty much bulletproof.

    They came with one of two different batteries, Nickel Metal Hydride or Lithium Ion.
    The NiMH tend to be good for 160,000 miles or so before they drop off but the Li-ion can last much longer.

    One of their only weak points is the electric water pump can break up inside anywhere past 100k.
    Cheap and easy fix and the cars onboard diagnostics will warn you when it starts going.  
    Ive looked at them but none local to test drive. Heard they are bulletproof proof so will keep an eye out. What is the cabin noise like at 60-70mph?
  • chrisw
    chrisw Posts: 3,756 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Had same V60, same issues. Engine replaced under goodwill at 28k miles, I think they upgraded the oil control rings around 2017, clutch replaced under goodwill at 30k miles.

    Alarm siren replaced with Mazda/landrover unit £15 from eBay, brake discs and pads replaced by me, <£200? (easy - rear calipers wind back using 9v battery).

    Engine symptoms started to reappear around 60k miles and rear door locks failed so offloaded to a we buy any car type place. 
  • Clownfish68
    Clownfish68 Posts: 42 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 10 Posts
    chrisw said:
    Had same V60, same issues. Engine replaced under goodwill at 28k miles, I think they upgraded the oil control rings around 2017, clutch replaced under goodwill at 30k miles.

    Alarm siren replaced with Mazda/landrover unit £15 from eBay, brake discs and pads replaced by me, <£200? (easy - rear calipers wind back using 9v battery).

    Engine symptoms started to reappear around 60k miles and rear door locks failed so offloaded to a we buy any car type place. 
    Jesus. I thought mine was bad only reaching 80. I wish i traded it in 3 years ago when diesel was going up and i didnt need that engine but it was paid off and i took a lower paying job. Now the main thing is i just want reliability and comfort. 
  • WellKnownSid
    WellKnownSid Posts: 1,840 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    What is the "actual" problem with the car?  What are the symptoms?  What are you experiencing?

    Please be aware that the cry of "it needs a new engine / gearbox / expensive component" is the very first thing all garages will tell you when they cannot be ar5ed bothered to diagnose an issue.  Do you have an actual diagnosis from a garage with access to VIDA?

    Most engines burn oil in later life - especially with low-friction rings and extended service intervals.  Many warranties (looking at you, Skoda) actually deliberately exclude this in their cover ;)

    What you're really saying is "for the small sum of your car plus all of your savings plus just £4,000-odd a year on top you won't have to worry about spending any more money on your car".

    If the aim is to get a shiny new car then feel free - just putting this into context, especially if you are over-egging the repair bill.  Not saying you are, or that there is anything wrong with wanting a newer car, just putting it out there.
    Somewhat unknown. My garage thought it was DPF for a short period i was doing more local driving with previous job (10miles vs 100now to work). After taken it to volvo they have said most likely pistons/head gasket. Ive later found out its a very common issue with this car. Volvo quoted 8-10k with other work.  
    What were the symptoms - out of wild curiosity?
    Engine light came on. Cleaned dpf as that had a bit of dirt but never bad. Then started to have a lack of power only as i pulled off very occasionally. Serviced november and then topped up more recently so took if to get a recall sorted and asked volvo to look at it and then did the test and confirmed its burning oil. Sadly only way to know is pull the engine but most things i have read have said replace the engine rather than just the part. 
    Tricky one.  Topping up after 4 months or so isn't a huge consumption.  I had a Vauxhall once that needed 1 litre of oil every 500 miles - 'within the normal range' apparently.

    You went in with an engine light and a lack of power.  The engine is obviously burning oil - they've tested it and it obviously is in the range of cars affected.  That doesn't mean that this is the cause of the problem, just that they have identified an issue and refuse to diagnose it any further.  Quote customer £10-12,000.  Customer goes away.
  • Goudy
    Goudy Posts: 2,058 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 1 May at 7:12AM
    Goudy said:
    If it has the dreaded Volvo oil control ring problem, a used engine is just asking for more trouble.
    I wouldn't throw any money at an unknown engine.

    If there's still some value in it as a trade in, it might be wise to move it on.

    Instead of a diesel, have you considered something like a Toyota Corolla Hybrid Touring?
    You'll get near diesel mpg out of them and they tend to be pretty much bulletproof.

    They came with one of two different batteries, Nickel Metal Hydride or Lithium Ion.
    The NiMH tend to be good for 160,000 miles or so before they drop off but the Li-ion can last much longer.

    One of their only weak points is the electric water pump can break up inside anywhere past 100k.
    Cheap and easy fix and the cars onboard diagnostics will warn you when it starts going.  
    Ive looked at them but none local to test drive. Heard they are bulletproof proof so will keep an eye out. What is the cabin noise like at 60-70mph?
    I've been using a couple of our transport departments Corolla Touring Hybrids recently as I have had to do a few weeks work in Manchester, so I have been pounding the M1/M6 a bit recently in stickered up Corollas.

    It's almost a perfect slogger on the motorway and a treat to drive through towns and cities.
    OK they are not the most inspiring of drives, but that's not their thing.

    The way the CVT gearbox and electric motor work is a vast improvement over the older generation Toyota Hybrids. There's more of a direct drive feeling over the revvy, laggy old CVT set up, though there still is a little bit but you soon get used to it.

    MPG is very good, I don't think I could do better in a diesel of the same size.
    High 50's on the motorway and I wasn't hanging about and through the city they were stubborn and always tried to run on electric as much as they could.

    Comfort is fine. I didn't take much notice of the trim level but suspect they were base Icon models with 16" rims, but they weren't lacking in equipment.
    I always found Toyotas to be a bit stiff and harsh on the road, but they were no bother, better than my own car which has 17" rims.

    I'm not 100% which engine version they were, I suspect 1.8 litres versions rather than the 2 litre ones.
    Still perfectly adequate on todays roads and motorways.

    After a couple of days, you stop thinking, it's a Hybrid. It's just a pretty solid, economical, comfortable automatic car that's a breeze to drive.
    Toyota have taken this Hybrid drive system and made is sort of normal.

     
Meet your Ambassadors

🚀 Getting Started

Hi new member!

Our Getting Started Guide will help you get the most out of the Forum

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 350.1K Banking & Borrowing
  • 252.8K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 453.1K Spending & Discounts
  • 243.1K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 597.5K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 176.5K Life & Family
  • 256.1K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
  • 37.6K Read-Only Boards

Is this how you want to be seen?

We see you are using a default avatar. It takes only a few seconds to pick a picture.