Bosch Dishwasher (Want to change motherboard) Inherited it with flat

greyteam1959

OpolE said:

FreeBear said:

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es760360/bosch-dishwasher-control-module - Other suppliers may be able to offer the part at a lower cost. Bosch part number 0049-0486 (assuming I got the right list).

What a rinse, may as well just be a POS polluter then and buy a whole new machine. Something is definitely wrong with pricing items like that in regards to the environmental impact

Try eBay for the part.
Usually a lot cheaper for the exact same thing.

OpolE

ThisIsWeird said:

Now you've got this far, OpolE, could you try opening up that module? Remove it fully from the machine first - and take lots of photos of the connectors...

Obvs, power completely cut from the DW.

And, do you have a soldering iron? Know anyone who has?

I can identify 1 issue so far 

ThisIsWeird

OpolE said:

I can identify 1 issue so far 

Nice! You may have actually caught this issue whilst it's still reversible.

I'm guessing that's a relay, and - if so - it'll likely come down to the cause of that breached solder joint.

Often it's down to the relay's physical movement as it operates, and this slowly fractures the solder joint over time -  it then arcs, as you can see there. In this case, a good 'wetting' with fresh solder could restore it to full working order. 

Other times the cause is a high-resistance contact within the relay itself, caused by the wee arcs across the switching contacts. Once this builds up too high, the joint can no longer pass the full current, and it heats up; the heat travels down the connection wire to the PCB and melts the joint, again causing arcing there. In this case, tho', the relay itself will be kaput.

Do you have a soldering iron? Know anyone who does?

If you can gently prise that PCB out so you can examine the other side, it may be more clear whether the relay itself is damaged.

Are you 'practical'? This would be basic soldering, and the equipment - iron + solder - could be had for a £enner.

FreeBear

ThisIsWeird said: Do you have a soldering iron? Know anyone who does?

If you can gently prise that PCB out so you can examine the other side, it may be more clear whether the relay itself is damaged.

Are you 'practical'? This would be basic soldering, and the equipment - iron + solder - could be had for a £enner.

A little bit of flux probably wouldn't go amiss. Just do NOT use plumber's solder and flux - Plumber's flux is highly acidic, and residue will eat away at the copper in short time.

OpolE

ThisIsWeird said:

OpolE said:

I can identify 1 issue so far 

Nice! You may have actually caught this issue whilst it's still reversible.

I'm guessing that's a relay, and - if so - it'll likely come down to the cause of that breached solder joint.

Often it's down to the relay's physical movement as it operates, and this slowly fractures the solder joint over time -  it then arcs, as you can see there. In this case, a good 'wetting' with fresh solder could restore it to full working order. 

Other times the cause is a high-resistance contact within the relay itself, caused by the wee arcs across the switching contacts. Once this builds up too high, the joint can no longer pass the full current, and it heats up; the heat travels down the connection wire to the PCB and melts the joint, again causing arcing there. In this case, tho', the relay itself will be kaput.

Do you have a soldering iron? Know anyone who does?

If you can gently prise that PCB out so you can examine the other side, it may be more clear whether the relay itself is damaged.

Are you 'practical'? This would be basic soldering, and the equipment - iron + solder - could be had for a £enner.

As requested. Should I be popping the box off the area identified?

ThisIsWeird

They look unscathed, tho' worth looking at more closely, all the way around the casing.
If the 'heat' has come from within the relay body, then to travel down that terminal and melt the joint would have taken 200+ degrees, in which case the plastic case would almost certainly also be scorched or buckled. No signs of this? If not, then there's every chance you have gotten away with this, and it's all originated from a poor or failing solder joint.
In any case, there is no harm at all - now't to lose - in trying a simple resolder first. Imagine how satisfying?!
Soooo, do you have a soldering iron, and multicore solder?
Even if you haven't soldered before, this is a beaut to begin with, literally as easy as it gets. No sensitive electronic components that can be damaged by a couple of seconds too much heat! No titchy pads or - yuck - surface-mounted nasties. Just a great big muckle relay, gagging to be rejoined to the board. 

OpolE

ThisIsWeird said:

They look unscathed, tho' worth looking at more closely, all the way around the casing.
If the 'heat' has come from within the relay body, then to travel down that terminal and melt the joint would have taken 200+ degrees, in which case the plastic case would almost certainly also be scorched or buckled. No signs of this? If not, then there's every chance you have gotten away with this, and it's all originated from a poor or failing solder joint.
In any case, there is no harm at all - now't to lose - in trying a simple resolder first. Imagine how satisfying?!
Soooo, do you have a soldering iron, and multicore solder?
Even if you haven't soldered before, this is a beaut to begin with, literally as easy as it gets. No sensitive electronic components that can be damaged by a couple of seconds too much heat! No titchy pads or - yuck - surface-mounted nasties. Just a great big muckle relay, gagging to be rejoined to the board. 

Hey, thanks. Yes I have access to one. Everything else looks in good nik. Will try sort it. If it takes some time I'l PM you direct the result

danrv

Worth doing as you have got the board out. Also check over the rest of the solder blobs for any hairline cracks where they meet the tracking. Sometimes can show with a little bit of flexing.

ThisIsWeird

OpolE said:

ThisIsWeird said:

They look unscathed, tho' worth looking at more closely, all the way around the casing.
If the 'heat' has come from within the relay body, then to travel down that terminal and melt the joint would have taken 200+ degrees, in which case the plastic case would almost certainly also be scorched or buckled. No signs of this? If not, then there's every chance you have gotten away with this, and it's all originated from a poor or failing solder joint.
In any case, there is no harm at all - now't to lose - in trying a simple resolder first. Imagine how satisfying?!
Soooo, do you have a soldering iron, and multicore solder?
Even if you haven't soldered before, this is a beaut to begin with, literally as easy as it gets. No sensitive electronic components that can be damaged by a couple of seconds too much heat! No titchy pads or - yuck - surface-mounted nasties. Just a great big muckle relay, gagging to be rejoined to the board. 

Hey, thanks. Yes I have access to one. Everything else looks in good nik. Will try sort it. If it takes some time I'l PM you direct the result

Thanks, but you have a whole audience here, hanging on this thread by a, err, thread.

No rush, but we'd love to hear the outcome.

As Danrv says, worth looking at the other relay solder pads with a magnifying glass too, or take high-res pics zoomed in on your screen. Any remotely dodgy-looking ones, 'wet' then with a melt and an extra wee dab of fresh solder.

No harm in 'wetting' if in any doubt. Each pad should take 3-4 seconds. Do not overheat.

EssexExile

I used to mend domestic appliances for a living, my employer-supplied tool kit didn't contain a soldering iron! Luckily I had my own and knew how to use it.

I also had my own club hammer for when a soldering iron wasn't enough.