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Seized secondary hot water return pump
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We have an unvented hot and cold system, and I just turn off the main stop !!!!!! and open a tap until the water stops running. That relieves the pressure but does not drain the system.There will be some water coming from the pump when you remove it, assuming the valves don’t work, so a wet and dry vacuum would be a really really good idea!No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?2
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Anyone know what the gate valve is - I need to buy one pronto! 22mm compression at one end - not sure what the end connected to the (corroded and about to be replaced) secondary pump is. Instructions say 1.5 inch BSPM is the pipe connection size0
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Chust your orn'ary 'pump gate valve', 22mm.Going well so far, then
No probs - you have this...
Don't forget the new dose of system 'inhibitor'. Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-central-heating-inhibitor-500ml/8197rAnd, personally, I think every home should have a wee tub of sili grease: https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-silicone-grease-tub-100g/968pa In this case, give the rubber gasket a wee smear. It'll thank you.
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It may possibly be a few mm short or long, but don't worry - the olive should move that much, or even the whole pipe.You can give the olive and the thread at both ends a smear of sili, too, and this should help smooth the process.0
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ThisIsWeird said:Chust your orn'ary 'pump gate valve', 22mm.Going well so far, then
No probs - you have this...
Don't forget the new dose of system 'inhibitor'. Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-central-heating-inhibitor-500ml/8197rAnd, personally, I think every home should have a wee tub of sili grease: https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-silicone-grease-tub-100g/968pa In this case, give the rubber gasket a wee smear. It'll thank you.
Will pass on the inhibitor, seeing as its a drinking hot water loop! Glad to see that the old non-corroding secondary hot water pump didn't corrode...........
Have some appropriate (potable) grease - good idea. Would have forgotten otherwise.1 -
TheGreenFrog said:ThisIsWeird said:Chust your orn'ary 'pump gate valve', 22mm.Going well so far, then
No probs - you have this...
Don't forget the new dose of system 'inhibitor'. Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-central-heating-inhibitor-500ml/8197rAnd, personally, I think every home should have a wee tub of sili grease: https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-silicone-grease-tub-100g/968pa In this case, give the rubber gasket a wee smear. It'll thank you.
Will pass on the inhibitor, seeing as its a drinking hot water loop! Glad to see that the old non-corroding secondary hot water pump didn't corrode...........
Have some appropriate (potable) grease - good idea. Would have forgotten otherwise.
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Pump (and valve) successfully replaced, although not without incident! With thanks for the guidance from @ThisIsWeird and others.
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Very nice jobWith the gate valves fully open, close them a half-turn. That won't at all affect the flow, but it'll help prevent the valve seizing over time. Applies to all the gate valves there - like the one supply the hot cylinder, for example.I bet you feel gooood!
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