Water runoff issues on driveway?

blackstar

ThisIsWeird said:

Would you be allowed to simply redo the block drive you currently have, as that's permeable? 
Cleaned up, it'll look as good as new.

Is a monoblock driveway permeable?
Really don't like monoblock and issues with weeds.

Currently there are small pools of water when it rains on the driveway.

ThisIsWeird

blackstar said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Would you be allowed to simply redo the block drive you currently have, as that's permeable? 
Cleaned up, it'll look as good as new.

Is a monoblock driveway permeable?
Really don't like monoblock and issues with weeds.

Currently there are small pools of water when it rains on the driveway.

Yes, it's permeable - the rain drains via the sand between the blocks.

Yes, you can get issues with weeds, but these are minimal and easy to sort. 

Once properly relaid, there should be no pooling (just give it the slightest of slopes towards the road, so any rain that doesn't quite soak through will at least exit your drive - it'll simply be adding to the rain wot's already on the pavement.)

Once cleaned up, these bricks should look fine - the whole drive should look new. Treat yourself to contrasting strips and borders too, if you want.

I'm really only suggesting this if you'd be allowed to redo it, like-for-like, because adding any form of drainage to that drive is going to be fraught, from what I can see.

FreeBear

ThisIsWeird said:

blackstar said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Would you be allowed to simply redo the block drive you currently have, as that's permeable? 
Cleaned up, it'll look as good as new.

Is a monoblock driveway permeable?
Really don't like monoblock and issues with weeds.

Currently there are small pools of water when it rains on the driveway.

Yes, it's permeable - the rain drains via the sand between the blocks.

Yes, you can get issues with weeds, but these are minimal and easy to sort. 

Once properly relaid, there should be no pooling (just give it the slightest of slopes towards the road, so any rain that doesn't quite soak through will at least exit your drive - it'll simply be adding to the rain wot's already on the pavement.)

There are sunken areas which suggests that the sub base isn't thick enough. Yes, you could lift the blocks, fill in the dips, and relay. But in 5 years time, it will have sunk again. The whole lot really needs digging out to a decent depth and done properly from the ground up.

Got a linear drain between my drive and the path (ground slopes towards the path/road). Have checked on several occasions during heavy rain, and most of the water soaks away through the block joints. Very little actually reaches the linear drain. But I'm on sand, so no drainage issues.

The other advantage of digging the whole lot out is that attenuation can be incorporated in to the sub base - Either by way of SUDS crates, or a permeable material. This would allow surface water to be retained during a downpour and slowly released in to the ground. If you are on clay, this may be something to consider (won't be cheap though).

ThisIsWeird

FreeBear said:

There are sunken areas which suggests that the sub base isn't thick enough. Yes, you could lift the blocks, fill in the dips, and relay. But in 5 years time, it will have sunk again. The whole lot really needs digging out to a decent depth and done properly from the ground up.

Got a linear drain between my drive and the path (ground slopes towards the path/road). Have checked on several occasions during heavy rain, and most of the water soaks away through the block joints. Very little actually reaches the linear drain. But I'm on sand, so no drainage issues.

The other advantage of digging the whole lot out is that attenuation can be incorporated in to the sub base - Either by way of SUDS crates, or a permeable material. This would allow surface water to be retained during a downpour and slowly released in to the ground. If you are on clay, this may be something to consider (won't be cheap though).

I was suggesting it is relaid properly.

Slinky

Regarding quote, this was ours to replace concrete with tarmac. It slopes towards the road so we had a new drainage channel and crate soakaway installed. Soakaway wasn't 2.5m from the boundary, but we figured what we had done was an improvement on the nothing that had been there before. We enquired about permable tarmac but the contractor said he doesn't recommend it.

(Area 64m sq)

 

To excavate area to the necessary depth and dispose of all spoil from site.

To supply and lay geo-textile membrane on compact sub-soil.

To supply and lay 150mm thickness of Type 1 hardcore well compacted to the correct falls and levels.

To supply and lay block paver edging laid on and backed up with 1:3:6 concrete to the lefthand side of the driveway.

To supply and lay channel drains and pipe into new create soak-away.

To supply and lay 30mm thickness of 20mm grade dense bitumen macadam Base course compacted to the correct falls and levels.

To supply and hand lay 30mm thickness of 6mm grade S.M.A wearing course compacted to correct falls and levels.

 

The price for the above work will be ……………..£7,995.00 + v.a.t.