One radiator needs bleeding roughly every 2-3 heating cycles. No pressure gauge on Boiler.

Chrysalis

So I had a replacement boiler go in during early November.

I then noticed a few weeks later, the radiator in my living room was luke warm one side instead of hot, I bled it after the heating was off, and on the next heating it was hot everywhere.  I thought all was good, but then a few uses later, the problem came back, I bled it again, and was good for another 2-3 cycles, I have now done this I think 4 times now.

I read, excessive bleeding can cause pressure problems, but my boiler has no pressure gauge to check.  It is also a real pain to bleed this radiator, as the side its on is very hard to access.  I am at full stretch doing it, and the key thing I brought to do it, barely catches to adjust it.

For reference the boiler is an ideal logic plus h12 low end model.

Mark_d

With the boiler being replaced it's not surprising there's air in the system.  It takes a while for all the air to surface but needing bleeding 4 times since November is about the limit.  I'm not aware of any problems caused by excessive bleeding...tough if you do need to bleed frequently for a long period then you likely do have problems in your system.

ThisIsWeird

Chrysalis said:

So I had a replacement boiler go in during early November.

I then noticed a few weeks later, the radiator in my living room was luke warm one side instead of hot, I bled it after the heating was off, and on the next heating it was hot everywhere.  I thought all was good, but then a few uses later, the problem came back, I bled it again, and was good for another 2-3 cycles, I have now done this I think 4 times now.

I read, excessive bleeding can cause pressure problems, but my boiler has no pressure gauge to check.  It is also a real pain to bleed this radiator, as the side its on is very hard to access.  I am at full stretch doing it, and the key thing I brought to do it, barely catches to adjust it.

For reference the boiler is an ideal logic plus h12 low end model.

Hi Chrysalis.
This does not sound right. Yes - as Mark says - you can expect the new system's fill of fresh water to contain a fair amount of dissolved air in it, but most should come out in normal use and exit either via the vent pipe, or the auto air vent on the return pipe (which, I think, should be fitted).
A small amount collecting in rads is no great surprise, but repeated bleedings being required because the rad's performance is compromised does sound excessive.
Your system should also have been cleaned - flushed - as part of the installation, so another potential cause of this issue - a partially blocked CH pipe - should be very unlikely.
Could we have a pic of the boiler, please, including the pipes that are coming out?
Where is the pump installed - could we see a pic of that too, please, including any controls on it? (This can sometimes be caused by the pump running too fast).
I understand your boiler is a 'heat-only' type, so requires a wee F&E tank in the loft? These don't have pressure gauges, but are kept topped-up automatically from this tank to replace system water lost through rad bleeding.

Mr.Generous

It's not usually air, it's corrosion gasses building up. Put at least a litre of system inhibitor into the heating ASAP.

ThisIsWeird

Corrosion inhibitor should have been added as part of this recent installation. Even if not, I wouldn't expect that level of corrosion gas in such a short time.

A magnetic filter should have been fitted too; Chrysalis, in addition to my earlier Qs, could you confirm a filter has been fitted?

Do you have a 'Benchmark' report for the installation? Who did the work - a local GS or a 'national'?

Chrysalis

To be honest I have no idea if a filter is fitted, or if it was flushed.  I also dont have a report for the install, it is a rented property so that probably went to my LL.

I will get some photos for you, there is from what I can see 2 pipes going to the boiler for water flow, and some internal stuff which includes an exhaust for the flue outside.

Absolutely no idea where the pump might be.
I can only guess it is in airing cupboard somewhere near my water tanks, so will have a look in there.
Gas engineer deffo not a national, its his own business.  Does a lot of work for my LL including the annual safety checks.
Boiler is heat only type yes, I at least know that.

Albermarle

the radiator in my living room was luke warm one side instead of hot

I thought the classic symptom of air in the radiator was that the top of the radiator did not get hot?

OP - Can we have a pic of the radiator and an indication of which side gets cool and where the bleed valve is ?

ThisIsWeird

Albermarle said:

the radiator in my living room was luke warm one side instead of hot

I thought the classic symptom of air in the radiator was that the top of the radiator did not get hot?

OP - Can we have a pic of the radiator and an indication of which side gets cool and where the bleed valve is ?

Good point.

But, a rad on a slight slope could give this skewed symptom, and also the act of the OP bleeding the rad - and it needed bleeding - restored its performance.

Chrysalis, when you bled the rad, how much air came out? How long did it 'hisss' for?

Chrysalis

ThisIsWeird said:

Albermarle said:

the radiator in my living room was luke warm one side instead of hot

I thought the classic symptom of air in the radiator was that the top of the radiator did not get hot?

OP - Can we have a pic of the radiator and an indication of which side gets cool and where the bleed valve is ?

Good point.

But, a rad on a slight slope could give this skewed symptom, and also the act of the OP bleeding the rad - and it needed bleeding - restored its performance.

Chrysalis, when you bled the rad, how much air came out? How long did it 'hisss' for?

Not very long, the first time was the longest maybe 4 or 5 seconds, it feels like less air comes out each time, so maybe a gradual improvement, now its barely a second worth of hiss, 2 maximum.

FreeBear

Took me quite some time to get all the air out of my system after the new boiler was installed. Still crack open a bleed nipple on one radiator each month. A second or two is about all that is needed.

ThisIsWeird

Chrysalis said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Albermarle said:

the radiator in my living room was luke warm one side instead of hot

I thought the classic symptom of air in the radiator was that the top of the radiator did not get hot?

OP - Can we have a pic of the radiator and an indication of which side gets cool and where the bleed valve is ?

Good point.

But, a rad on a slight slope could give this skewed symptom, and also the act of the OP bleeding the rad - and it needed bleeding - restored its performance.

Chrysalis, when you bled the rad, how much air came out? How long did it 'hisss' for?

Not very long, the first time was the longest maybe 4 or 5 seconds, it feels like less air comes out each time, so maybe a gradual improvement, now its barely a second worth of hiss, 2 maximum.

Ok, that's not bad at all, and could well be down to dissolved air still being driven out from the fresh system water by it being heated.
I'm surprised that the air from just a second's hiss would affect a rad that much, tho'.
Anyhoo, as long as it continues to become less, and goes to pretty much zero in another few weeks, it should be fine.
If you'd like to post pics of your boiler and supplying pipework, we can see if there's anything obviously amiss, and ditto in the airing cupboard, but I'm not really expecting to see anything wrong.