Victorian Renovation

LondonHouse6

Victorian Renovation 

ThisIsWeird

What method was used to cut the cable channel?

LondonHouse6

ThisIsWeird said:

What method was used to cut the cable channel?

I think they used a wall chaser. It was an L shape. I'd send a picture but it has already been plastered up. 

TELLIT01

As it's likely to be a solid wall between the properties, any vibration when doing work is going to be felt on the other side of the wall.  If cracks have appeared on the neighbours side, which weren't there before, it's probably been caused by the work to chase the wall.

Petriix

Doing any work on a party wall requires a party wall agreement, even for chasing in a cable. If you're doing more substantial work then you'll definitely need one. 

Katiehound

The chances are that the wall may only be one brick (approx 8") thick so any vibration will cause problems.

I would be inclined to invite the neighbours round and chat about what you propose

I have always told the neighbours when builders are going to work because mine is one of a Victorian terrace ie no foundations, no damp proof course.......

ThisIsWeird

LondonHouse6 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

What method was used to cut the cable channel?

I think they used a wall chaser. It was an L shape. I'd send a picture but it has already been plastered up. 

The cutting discs on a wall chaser shouldn't cause this, but possibly the chiselling-out afterwards may have, it's hard to know.
I think you've been unlucky, but it's fortunate there hasn't been more damage. Seemingly you don't need a PWA agreement for 'shallow' cable chases, but I'm guessing that might mean 'plaster-depth' and little more. But I don't know.
If this wall is one brick thickness, I'd be inclined to chase no more, and even consider not even drilling, unless it's shallow holes for light objects. Instead, consider adding a false timber wall to your side to cover any other needed runs - and to provide sound insulation. It doesn't have to be thick - even 1" battens should do, secured top and bottom, and glued throughout its length.
For cracks to appear, a brick has almost certainly has moved, which means 'loosened'. It ain't going to come crashing down, but I'm just saying it's probably lost its bond to its fellows, and you don't want that happening any more.

It should be possible to determine the party wall thickness by measuring accurately from adjacent window reveals in each house to their respective party wall surfaces. Then transfer these measurements outside; the gap = wall thickness (+ plaster).

 

casper_gutman

ThisIsWeird said:

It should be possible to determine the party wall thickness by measuring accurately from adjacent window reveals in each house to their respective party wall surfaces. Then transfer these measurements outside; the gap = wall thickness (+ plaster).

This is true. As a caution, a Victorian house may well have sliding sash windows or at least may originally have had these. In such cases the window opening may be larger on the inside than the outside to accommodate boxes for sash weights. You need to consider this when transferring the measurements. I once scratched my head over this for longer than I care to admit. The difference wasn't enormous, and the thick window frame between - it was a 1920s house with wall cavities, albeit narrow ones - meant it took me a while to notice.