Change ‘dumb’ heating controller for a ‘smart’ one?

dharm999

Am having an issue with my heating controller.  It’s a simple one, Drayton I’m pretty sure.  It only controls the heating to the radiators on the top and basement floors of the house.  There is a separate controller for the UFH system in the middle level of the house, and this also controls the hot water.  This controller is also a Drayton one, which lets me set three on/off times across weekdays and on individual days at the weekend.  There are no problems with this controller.

All the radiators have trvs and from a living style point of view we live mainly on the middle floor, and really only go to the top floor when sleeping or bathing.  We prefer it to be relatively cool in the bedrooms, so the trvs are set to 2-3 setting, so middling really.  The bathroom on the top floor has UFH so is controlled by a different controller to the one that is having a problem.

The radiator heating controller doesn’t switch on the heating when the timer says it should, but if I override the set times and put the heating on permanently, the radiators get warm, which makes me think the controller is the problem.  The boiler is working ok, as we get hot water and the radiator heating does come on if the set times are overridden.

In our previous house we installed a Hive smart system to control the heating and hot water and I liked the flexibility, but in all honesty it wasn’t essential to have that flexibility, it was a nice to have.  We don’t have panels or batteries, but there is a plan to maybe install them in a few years time.  The boiler seems to be ok, it’s a 10 years old WB one, and gets serviced every year, so no immediate plans to change that either.  As and when we do have to change the boiler, we would probably switch to a heat pump and then I would look to change all controllers to smart ones.

Given all that, I’m thinking of replacing the ‘dumb’ controller with another ‘dumb’ controller, as I don’t see any major benefit from switching to a smart one.  Am I missing anything that I should be considering that could change my decision?

Thanks

Rodders53

I'd suspect User Error on the programmer for the UP and BASEMENT to be more likely than anything else as the permanently on switch will actuate the same relay and diverter valve to start the pump and boiler.

Find exact model numbers.
Read the manuals and check the programming of clock time,  timers and any thermostats and so on.

Many "dumb" programmers are close to cost of some smart programmer controls so may be worth costing up the difference.
Drayton do the Wiser system that may be a simple swap onto existing backplate(s). 
Do some research.

dharm999

Rodders53 said:

I'd suspect User Error on the programmer for the UP and BASEMENT to be more likely than anything else as the permanently on switch will actuate the same relay and diverter valve to start the pump and boiler.

Find exact model numbers.
Read the manuals and check the programming of clock time,  timers and any thermostats and so on.

Many "dumb" programmers are close to cost of some smart programmer controls so may be worth costing up the difference.
Drayton do the Wiser system that may be a simple swap onto existing backplate(s). 
Do some research.

Thanks.  The thing is, the controller was working and now isn’t, without any changes to it, or any other settings.  Could it be that there is a fault in the controller that means the timer settings don’t work, I.e. whatever signal it sends to the boiler to come on when it gets to the time to come on, isn’t being sent?  Doing the manual override doesn’t involve coming on at a set time, so the signal to come on gets through to the boiler.  

Will have a look at the Wiser system, thanks

dharm999

The controller is branded British Gas UT2, but it looks like a Drayton 1 channel one, LP111 or LP711, don’t know which.  There is no thermostat, so that isn’t the issue.

ThisIsWeird

Hi dharm.
You should be able to fit a single-channel Hive receiver directly in place of that UT2, and then the actual Hive controller is mounted in a suitable location, like the main bedroom or upstairs hallway.
Dreadful setup not having an actual temp controller - I believe referred to as a 'boiler interlock', and a regs requirement.
Ditto with Wiser, Tado, or whichever other Smart Prog Stat you require; fit the receiver in place of the UT.
If you can wire a plug, you can do this. Obvs, it's important to not kill yourself in the process, as that will lead to a bad start to 2025.
I 'think' the Hive receiver will literally clip into place (two securing screws), with no change in wiring - the backplates look similar - but this will need confirming. The Hive hub then plugs into your router - always worth having.

dharm999

Thanks.  Assume I isolate power to the controller, disconnect it and then connect the new one and the same way as the old one?  Will take a picture of the wiring so I know what to do.  Have no idea which smart controller to get, have seen comments suggesting that Wiser doesn’t neeed a internet connection to continue working whereas Tado does, so am veering towards the Wiser option.  I’m after a simple set up, and I think the Wiser does that

ThisIsWeird

dharm999 said:

Thanks.  Assume I isolate power to the controller, disconnect it and then connect the new one and the same way as the old one?  Will take a picture of the wiring so I know what to do.  Have no idea which smart controller to get, have seen comments suggesting that Wiser doesn’t neeed a internet connection to continue working whereas Tado does, so am veering towards the Wiser option.  I’m after a simple set up, and I think the Wiser does that

The thing to do would, indeed, be to isolate the CH supply - this should have a dedicated fused switch on the wall, usually near the boiler. If in doubt, turn off the MCB in your CU.

Check that the UT2 is 'dead'.

Undo the two wee screws on its underside, and lift it off from below. Just don't touch anything exposed.

Take photos. Report back here. Replace UT for safety.