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Stupid question… are these vents to help ventilate roof space?
Comments
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A mid 90's house should have a closed cavity and insulation in the cavity and roof space. It's possible that they left it out in that section.dr_bogenbroom said:
This is a mid nineties house and I don’t see any air bricks - ground floor is solidstuart45 said:
Convection currents in the cavity can increase the U value of the wall to be greater than a 9inch solid clay brick wall. A small amount of ventilation is useful through weep vents, but air bricks and open cavities are well out of date.dr_bogenbroom said:
Yeah there are no draughts - it’s likely a very minor contributor to the problem. I’ve read that draughts in the cavity can make rooms feel colder though, is that true?stuart45 said:The ventilation should be put in the soffit, or the eaves. However, there's probably some ventilation getting to the roof space from there, although that wasn't the intention. You shouldn't be getting a draught in the room from there, even with that gap.1 -
How did you get the insulation to stay up there if the ceiling was down?FreeBear said:dr_bogenbroom said:
I poked a small camera through a light fitting hole and couldn’t see any in there however lighting was poor - I’d probably just replace the existing inside roof with insulated plasterboard if that would work?stuart45 said:
It could be that no insulation was added to this part of the roof. Is there any access to this part? Condensation risks increase with insulation at joist level.dr_bogenbroom said:Out of curiosity is there any reason why soffit vents wouldn’t be fitted on this small section? I’d have thought condensation would still be a risk with the rooms below being heated? I do need to install insulation in this section as well but as previously advised I’ll do it from insideHave a pitched roof over a bay window without any real access to the void. A neighbour had the tiles stripped and added insulation from the outside. I opted to take the ceiling down internally (messy, dirty job), and put loads of insulation in from below.Insulating from the inside means having to redecorate, and makes a lot of mess (especially if you have a lath & plaster ceiling). Doing it from outside would require scaffolding (or a decent tower), but if you can get away without disturbing the hip tiles & lead flashing, would be less messy. It really depends on how easy it is to lift the tiles and if there is felt underneath.Another option is to cut a hole in the "ceiling" by the door and crawl in to the void from there.0 -
You cut Celotex or Kingspan to a tight fit.dr_bogenbroom said:
How did you get the insulation to stay up there if the ceiling was down?FreeBear said:dr_bogenbroom said:
I poked a small camera through a light fitting hole and couldn’t see any in there however lighting was poor - I’d probably just replace the existing inside roof with insulated plasterboard if that would work?stuart45 said:
It could be that no insulation was added to this part of the roof. Is there any access to this part? Condensation risks increase with insulation at joist level.dr_bogenbroom said:Out of curiosity is there any reason why soffit vents wouldn’t be fitted on this small section? I’d have thought condensation would still be a risk with the rooms below being heated? I do need to install insulation in this section as well but as previously advised I’ll do it from insideHave a pitched roof over a bay window without any real access to the void. A neighbour had the tiles stripped and added insulation from the outside. I opted to take the ceiling down internally (messy, dirty job), and put loads of insulation in from below.Insulating from the inside means having to redecorate, and makes a lot of mess (especially if you have a lath & plaster ceiling). Doing it from outside would require scaffolding (or a decent tower), but if you can get away without disturbing the hip tiles & lead flashing, would be less messy. It really depends on how easy it is to lift the tiles and if there is felt underneath.Another option is to cut a hole in the "ceiling" by the door and crawl in to the void from there.0 -
Gotcha thanksstuart45 said:
You cut Celotex or Kingspan to a tight fit.dr_bogenbroom said:
How did you get the insulation to stay up there if the ceiling was down?FreeBear said:dr_bogenbroom said:
I poked a small camera through a light fitting hole and couldn’t see any in there however lighting was poor - I’d probably just replace the existing inside roof with insulated plasterboard if that would work?stuart45 said:
It could be that no insulation was added to this part of the roof. Is there any access to this part? Condensation risks increase with insulation at joist level.dr_bogenbroom said:Out of curiosity is there any reason why soffit vents wouldn’t be fitted on this small section? I’d have thought condensation would still be a risk with the rooms below being heated? I do need to install insulation in this section as well but as previously advised I’ll do it from insideHave a pitched roof over a bay window without any real access to the void. A neighbour had the tiles stripped and added insulation from the outside. I opted to take the ceiling down internally (messy, dirty job), and put loads of insulation in from below.Insulating from the inside means having to redecorate, and makes a lot of mess (especially if you have a lath & plaster ceiling). Doing it from outside would require scaffolding (or a decent tower), but if you can get away without disturbing the hip tiles & lead flashing, would be less messy. It really depends on how easy it is to lift the tiles and if there is felt underneath.Another option is to cut a hole in the "ceiling" by the door and crawl in to the void from there.0 -
First layer was rolled out across the top of the joists. A second layer cut to be a snug fit between the joists. Yes, it started to sag down, but friction held it all in place long enough to get the plasterboard up. If I were to do it again, I'd probably use Celotex between the joists.dr_bogenbroom said:
How did you get the insulation to stay up there if the ceiling was down?FreeBear said:dr_bogenbroom said:
I poked a small camera through a light fitting hole and couldn’t see any in there however lighting was poor - I’d probably just replace the existing inside roof with insulated plasterboard if that would work?stuart45 said:
It could be that no insulation was added to this part of the roof. Is there any access to this part? Condensation risks increase with insulation at joist level.dr_bogenbroom said:Out of curiosity is there any reason why soffit vents wouldn’t be fitted on this small section? I’d have thought condensation would still be a risk with the rooms below being heated? I do need to install insulation in this section as well but as previously advised I’ll do it from insideHave a pitched roof over a bay window without any real access to the void. A neighbour had the tiles stripped and added insulation from the outside. I opted to take the ceiling down internally (messy, dirty job), and put loads of insulation in from below.Insulating from the inside means having to redecorate, and makes a lot of mess (especially if you have a lath & plaster ceiling). Doing it from outside would require scaffolding (or a decent tower), but if you can get away without disturbing the hip tiles & lead flashing, would be less messy. It really depends on how easy it is to lift the tiles and if there is felt underneath.Another option is to cut a hole in the "ceiling" by the door and crawl in to the void from there.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
Ok sounds good.FreeBear said:
First layer was rolled out across the top of the joists. A second layer cut to be a snug fit between the joists. Yes, it started to sag down, but friction held it all in place long enough to get the plasterboard up. If I were to do it again, I'd probably use Celotex between the joists.dr_bogenbroom said:
How did you get the insulation to stay up there if the ceiling was down?FreeBear said:dr_bogenbroom said:
I poked a small camera through a light fitting hole and couldn’t see any in there however lighting was poor - I’d probably just replace the existing inside roof with insulated plasterboard if that would work?stuart45 said:
It could be that no insulation was added to this part of the roof. Is there any access to this part? Condensation risks increase with insulation at joist level.dr_bogenbroom said:Out of curiosity is there any reason why soffit vents wouldn’t be fitted on this small section? I’d have thought condensation would still be a risk with the rooms below being heated? I do need to install insulation in this section as well but as previously advised I’ll do it from insideHave a pitched roof over a bay window without any real access to the void. A neighbour had the tiles stripped and added insulation from the outside. I opted to take the ceiling down internally (messy, dirty job), and put loads of insulation in from below.Insulating from the inside means having to redecorate, and makes a lot of mess (especially if you have a lath & plaster ceiling). Doing it from outside would require scaffolding (or a decent tower), but if you can get away without disturbing the hip tiles & lead flashing, would be less messy. It really depends on how easy it is to lift the tiles and if there is felt underneath.Another option is to cut a hole in the "ceiling" by the door and crawl in to the void from there.
My roof is just standard plasterboard so I’ll need to think of a way to cut this down as neatly as possible0 -
What's the room above that roof, Dr B? Any way to access that roof void by cutting a hatch in the dwarf wall instead? That would also allow you to check that d-wall for insulation, and add some from behind if needed.dr_bogenbroom said:Hi,I posted a question recently asking the best way to fill gaps above my windows, but I’ve been having doubts.I have 2 small rooms (WC and cloak room) in this section of my house:
Above each window is a gap of about 3-4mm pictured below:There are no soffit vents to this small section of roof and I can’t see any sort of ventilation- both small rooms have heating in them.I want to block these gaps as part of a plan to make these rooms warmer ad they are freezing in winter, but I don’t want to block any ventilation to the roof space.Is there any way these gaps could have been left to act as vents for this roof space?Thanks.
Your own idea of simply screwing insulated p'board to the ceiling is probably the single best solution, the only drawback being that you lose ceiling height. But, very effective, and it would also block any moisture from getting up to the roof void via that route.1 -
Room above is a bedroom. What is a dwarf wall?ThisIsWeird said:
What's the room above that roof, Dr B? Any way to access that roof void by cutting a hatch in the dwarf wall instead? That would also allow you to check that d-wall for insulation, and add some from behind if needed.dr_bogenbroom said:Hi,I posted a question recently asking the best way to fill gaps above my windows, but I’ve been having doubts.I have 2 small rooms (WC and cloak room) in this section of my house:
Above each window is a gap of about 3-4mm pictured below:There are no soffit vents to this small section of roof and I can’t see any sort of ventilation- both small rooms have heating in them.I want to block these gaps as part of a plan to make these rooms warmer ad they are freezing in winter, but I don’t want to block any ventilation to the roof space.Is there any way these gaps could have been left to act as vents for this roof space?Thanks.
Your own idea of simply screwing insulated p'board to the ceiling is probably the single best solution, the only drawback being that you lose ceiling height. But, very effective, and it would also block any moisture from getting up to the roof void via that route.Yes or just slot in some insulated board in between the joists.0 -
I think he means the wall beneath the window and to the floor behind the roof.dr_bogenbroom said:
Room above is a bedroom. What is a dwarf wall?ThisIsWeird said:
What's the room above that roof, Dr B? Any way to access that roof void by cutting a hatch in the dwarf wall instead? That would also allow you to check that d-wall for insulation, and add some from behind if needed.dr_bogenbroom said:Hi,I posted a question recently asking the best way to fill gaps above my windows, but I’ve been having doubts.I have 2 small rooms (WC and cloak room) in this section of my house:
Above each window is a gap of about 3-4mm pictured below:There are no soffit vents to this small section of roof and I can’t see any sort of ventilation- both small rooms have heating in them.I want to block these gaps as part of a plan to make these rooms warmer ad they are freezing in winter, but I don’t want to block any ventilation to the roof space.Is there any way these gaps could have been left to act as vents for this roof space?Thanks.
Your own idea of simply screwing insulated p'board to the ceiling is probably the single best solution, the only drawback being that you lose ceiling height. But, very effective, and it would also block any moisture from getting up to the roof void via that route.Yes or just slot in some insulated board in between the joists.
It's probably a cavity wall with 2 skins of blockwork.
(Under the catslide of the main roof).1 -
As Stuart says - thanks. What are such short walls in sloping-ceilinged rooms called?0
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