Adding a Smart Thermostat to a Greenstar 28i Junior combi boiler

11fernsroad

We have bought a flat with a working Greenstar 28i Junior combi boiler.Flat has an old style heat up or down thermostat.

We would like to install a smart thermostat so as to control temperature remotely as well as add timer facilities.

What extra bits do we need for this to happen and is it done by gas engineer or electrician?

bryanb

I think a smart thermostat is all you need. Either trade should be capable, even diy

MikeJXE

I bought the Hive mini 2 years ago inc the hub

I tell Alexa what temperature it needs to be so no fidling about with the app

Works remote too 

11fernsroad

MikeJXE said:

I bought the Hive mini 2 years ago inc the hub

I tell Alexa what temperature it needs to be so no fidling about with the app

Works remote too 

Once I buy Hive + Hub,how do I connect them to my combi-boilder?

Many Thanks

ThisIsWeird

11fernsroad said:

MikeJXE said:

I bought the Hive mini 2 years ago inc the hub

I tell Alexa what temperature it needs to be so no fidling about with the app
Works remote too 

Once I buy Hive + Hub,how do I connect them to my combi-boilder?

Many Thanks

Two basic ways, depending on yer DIY abilities.

The Hive 'stat will consist of three units - the receiver, the Internet Hub, and the actual Hive controller. (The Hive Mini is a sweet little device, and works well. But really does need the Hub to allow you to easily program it via your phone.)

The Hub plugs into your router - I think you can manage that. The Mini sticks to the wall - ditto - or you can sit it on a sideboard if you prefer.

That leaves the bit you need to wire in - the receiver. 

Two ways - the 'proper' way is to locate the cable from the boiler that heads off to your existing dial wall 'stat, and run it to the receiver instead - the receiver would then usually be mounted next to the boiler. This is simple wiring - if you can wire a plug, you can do this, but you need to be 'happy' about wiring plugs. You need to know what you are doing.

And then there's the easy way... See your existing wall 'stat? You remove that, and fit the receiver there instead. You then mount the actual Hive wherever, either next to it, or somewhere else. If, for example, the wall 'stat is currently in your hallway, then I'd always recommend you move the Hive into the living room instead - the receiver can go in the hall where the ol' 'stat used to be.

Caveat - this relies on the correct wires being available at the existing 'stat - a live and a neutral (plus the switching wire).

Obvs if you mount the receiver on the wall where the old 'stat is, you'll have a wee white box there with a couple of lights on it, so you'd need to be happy about this.

If you ain't going to DIY, then you need a sparky, not a plumber. And they will likely mount the receiver next to the boiler, and run a new cable to it - the old one to the old 'stat will be disconnected. With the receiver near the boiler, your new Mini can now go over where the old 'stat (removed) was located, and hide the hole. The Mini uses batteries.

Are you up to DIYing it? If so, we can guide you. But not if you are obviously incomp :-)

powerful_Rogue

Same boiler as you, I use Drayton Wiser. Highly recommend.

FreeBear

ThisIsWeird said: Caveat - this relies on the correct wires being available at the existing 'stat - a live and a neutral (plus the switching wire).

Some boilers use a switched live to control when it fires up. Others require a "volt free" connection. Thermostats can come with either, so you need to be certain about which variety you are connecting. Having looked at the installation manual, it looks like the Greenstar 28i Junior uses a switched live. And it looks like the main cover has to be removed to gain access to the terminal block - Unless you already have an external timer/thermostat, you'll need a Gas Safe registered engineer to make those connections.

ThisIsWeird

FreeBear said:

ThisIsWeird said: Caveat - this relies on the correct wires being available at the existing 'stat - a live and a neutral (plus the switching wire).

Some boilers use a switched live to control when it fires up. Others require a "volt free" connection. Thermostats can come with either, so you need to be certain about which variety you are connecting. Having looked at the installation manual, it looks like the Greenstar 28i Junior uses a switched live. And it looks like the main cover has to be removed to gain access to the terminal block - Unless you already have an external timer/thermostat, you'll need a Gas Safe registered engineer to make those connections.

Yes, hence why the L and N is required at the old stat position regardless or switching type, or else the receiver won't power up.
The switching wire type (Live, or V-F) is secondary - whatever is there will work - tho' clearly the type does need to be ID'd. But, a L and N is essential.
Fitting the receiver in the old 'stat location is a bit mickeymouse, but a perfectly good solution for those looking for the simplest installation, the only drawback being the visual impact - if any.