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How to repair the big broken ceiling

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The roof was leaking, the ceiling was damp, then the ceiling dropped, what is the proper repair procedure?

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  • Personally, that isn't a DIY job I would attempt. Something similar happened to me, I got it professionally repaired via an insurance claim. Be aware that an artex ceiling put up before the 90's may contain asbestos.
  • Nobbie1967
    Nobbie1967 Posts: 1,669 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 27 November 2024 at 9:53PM
    Rip the whole ceiling down, plasterboard and then skim is probably the best way. Trying to patch that area will be difficult as the plaster has separated at the edges from the lathes and you then have to try and replicate the swirling. Looks like there’s more damage on the right as well.

    To avoid too much mess, I suppose you could just overboard the existing ceiling and skim. Always seems like a bodge though.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,259 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Rip the whole ceiling down, plasterboard and then skim is probably the best way. Trying to patch that area will be difficult as the plaster has separated at the edges from the laths and you then have to try and replicate the swirling. Looks like there’s more damage on the right as well.

    To avoid too much mess, I suppose you could just overboard the existing ceiling and skim. Always seems like a bodge though.
    Take the whole lot down, laths included, and make sure the whole area is denailed. Pack some loft insulation between the joists, and screw (not nail) plasterboard up before skimming. But taking down a lime plaster & lath ceiling is a very messy and filthy job. On the bright side, the old plaster makes for excellent hardcore and the laths good for kindling.
    On second thoughts, this patch of ceiling looks to be under the slope of the roof. In which case using 50mm of Celotex between the timbers (leaving a 25mm gap to the felt) would be the practical lime of insulation. Even just 50mm of the Celotex will pay dividends in cutting heat loss.

    Many, many moons ago, did have a sizeable chunk of lime plaster come down in a bedroom - This was patched with some plasterboard and then skimmed with gypsum. some 35 years on, you'd never notice the repair.


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  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 28 November 2024 at 8:24AM
    If the rest of the ceiling plaster is fully secure - if this section failed only due to localised water ingress - then that is fully patchable.
    Cut p'board to fit as neatly as possible - whichever thickness gets closest to a finishing skim level - and screw it into place over the lath. Thoroughly PVA the edges, both of the old plaster - getting right in there - and the new board, fill and tape the joint, and build up layers of skim until it's level. 
    Use a long straight edge to check the level and ensure no high spots. Do whatever DIYing is needed to get an acceptable and level finish, eg 80 grit or even a surform - it doesn't have to be remotely perfect.
    Repapering it all using textured paper should make it as good as 'new'.
    Over-boarding the whole ceiling will likely cause issues with that door corner - it's really tight.
    But, that's a coooold ceiling, and it would be good to get insulation up there, but that's a much bigger and very messy job :-(
  • fluffymuffy
    fluffymuffy Posts: 3,424 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    "felt" - I'd be surprised if there's felt.

    Looks like there's water stains on other parts of the ceiling. Big nasty job.
    I am the Cat who walks alone
  • If the rest of the ceiling plaster is fully secure - if this section failed only due to localised water ingress - then that is fully patchable.
    Cut p'board to fit as neatly as possible - whichever thickness gets closest to a finishing skim level - and screw it into place over the lath. Thoroughly PVA the edges, both of the old plaster - getting right in there - and the new board, fill and tape the joint, and build up layers of skim until it's level. 
    Use a long straight edge to check the level and ensure no high spots. Do whatever DIYing is needed to get an acceptable and level finish, eg 80 grit or even a surform - it doesn't have to be remotely perfect.
    Repapering it all using textured paper should make it as good as 'new'.
    Over-boarding the whole ceiling will likely cause issues with that door corner - it's really tight.
    But, that's a coooold ceiling, and it would be good to get insulation up there, but that's a much bigger and very messy job :-(
    Thanks so much for your professional advice, I found a YouTube video as well
    https://youtu.be/hKxya3jNhYg?si=awdO7uiJZMD76rzP
  • I'd take all the lattes off back to the joists and put plasterboard in the hole you might need two layers depending on the thickness of the ceiling then it should be plastered to the same level as the ceiling. 
    The plasterboarding might be diyable depending on your skills but it wouldn't be too hard a job. 
  • kevin1802 said:
    I'd take all the lattes off back to the joists and put plasterboard in the hole you might need two layers depending on the thickness of the ceiling then it should be plastered to the same level as the ceiling. 
    The plasterboarding might be diyable depending on your skills but it wouldn't be too hard a job. 

    Pros and cons. The biggest con being that it'll likely loosen more of the surrounding ceiling.

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