Soundproofing solid party wall

longwalks1

we live in a 1930’s build semi.  Solid brick walls including the dividing wall.  Our neighbours voice is piercing and can hear it through the wall at times, even with our TV on.  We’ve 2 areas we’d like to soundproof, either side of the shared chimney breast. Each area of wall is 1.85m wide by 2.4m high.

would one or 2 layers of standard 12.5mm soundproof board (similar to plasterboard) make a difference, or need something more substantial?  We are limited to an extent with regards to available depth from existing wall. (A partition wall filled with rock wool or similar isn’t an option) 

has anyone tried the PhoneStar sand filled boards?  Or open to any suggestions?  

We have spoken (politely) to the neighbour but it’s not an option due to a medical condition she suffers from.  We’ve have tried a couple of approaches that haven’t worked.

tacpot12

2 Layers of a soundproofing palsterboard would make quite a difference. With soundproofing, it's generally about mass and isolation. 

You should take a look at the solutions available on these commercial websites:
Wall Soundproofing | Industry Leading Solutions — Soundstop.co.uk
Soundproofing Store-Professional Soundproofing Systems
 

molerat

What thickness / depth could you happily go to ?

FreeBear

tacpot12 said: 2 Layers of a soundproofing plasterboard would make quite a difference. With soundproofing, it's generally about mass and isolation.

Used to have bookcases in the alcoves either side of the fireplace that were crammed full of books. Having since removed them, am more aware of noise coming through the party wall. So yes, mass is part of the equation. I wouldn't like to say if just two layers of soundblock plasterboard would be sufficient.

Albermarle

You can buy soundproofing 'wallpaper'. It is basically a thin layer of paper with a thicker foam layer behind it. You hang it like normal wallpaper, although I think you need to use a stronger adhesive. You can paint it afterwards. 
IIIRC, you can get ones that reflect noise from next door, or that dampen noise from your side.
From my experience it is partly effective. 
One problem for any method, is that if you block the noise in one room, there will still be 'leakage' to adjacent rooms, especially through thin stud walls, or ceilings.

Murmansk

Depending on how sensitive you are to the noise my gut feeling is that you will never get rid of it but you might reduce it a bit as it will travel through the joists etc. 

Grenage

As others have said, mass makes the difference.  The more you can add, the better - within reason.  Sound can still travel through timber floor voids etc.

georgehere

I have tried to do this and it is quite tricky as a DIY project because essentially you have to 'suspend' the soundproofing material - not fix it directly to the wall.

As others have mentioned, sound travels via other paths as well - eg. the chimney void, so determining what will work in your particular situation, with 1930s materials and construction methods is a matter of experience more than anything else.

The specialised materials and fixings are expensive, so getting it wrong is painful.

Given the above I would hire a specialist contractor to do the work.

alberty

I'm in exactly the same situation as you but worse because there is much banging and slamming and trauma PTSD from my neighbours from hell. I am trying to figure out how much would it cost to get a professional to fully solve the problem in a typical 1930s 3 bed semi at least to a degree that earplugs are enough to be able to sleep. I suspect it would be more than the taxes and legal fees of moving house? Don't want to waste hundreds on a independent survey or a pushy salesman if the answer is obvious. 

secla

we have a 1930s semi and by far the worst area is the back of the fire place.

different materials are also better at absorbing different frequencies of sounds so mixing a bunch of different materials can sometimes help.