Facing issues while breaking

Rock_007

I have recently bought the Mazda 6  2016 model and facing few issues with the breaking as,
1- when coming off from motorway to low speed, I am seeing the staring wheel is vibrating, I have really felt few time when I did long drives around 3-4 hours drive on motorway
2- when pressing the breaks it feels like it is talking time to completely stop the vehicle 

I have took to the kwik fit garage and they did the inspection of the break, I thought it might be the front disc and pads but they seems okay, also they find the break fluid pipe twisted which they corrected but im still facing the issues (although havnt tried for 3-4 hours drive but in small trip do fell to some extend the vibrations)
Also I took to another mechanic he took a test drive of the car and thinks might be sth to do with the front disc.........which im still not sure how

any suggestion what should I do and if I should log for replace the forms disc/pad and see if both the issues get resolved.

Note: I have attached the break pad report hosted here as I can't see an option to upload file here https://ufile.io/ui4mrq3o

Mildly_Miffed

The linked PDF is 8 pages of fairly meaningless verbiage.

Vibration under heavier braking is almost certainly a warped disc.

I wouldn't trust KF as far as I could kick them.

Okell

"Facing issues while breaking"

I'm disappointed.  I thought this was going to be a thread from B-Girl Raygun complaining about bullying on social media...

noitsnotme

I initially thought the post was about breaking a new car for parts!

Your brakes might be breaking or perhaps already broken.

(Rayguns breaking was definitely broken, maybe she should have put the brakes on sooner).

I agree with above, don’t use Kwik Fit for anything mechanical, that’s like asking PC World for expert computer advice.

Bigwheels1111

Does it pull to one side ? When breaking.
If so can be a sticky brake caliper which can heat up the pad and disc, so they warp.
Lots of hard breaking can do the same.
Used to get the issue on old rover 218 and 418 diesels.
Used them for mini cabbing, drove them very hard and braked hard too.
Cure was cheapest discs and pads, quality brands just warped in 3 months.

I would get a set of discs and pads, clean the caliper hanger with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
Grease the slider pins, put some copper ease on the rear of the pads and hanger where the pads meet it.
Drive gently for 100 mile and job should be done.

Not changed discs in over 15 years so don’t know which brands are and good.
Pads, Textar are my go to, fitted on lots of cars as standard.
Peugeot, Toyota to name but two.

facade

The shaking steering is probably caused by the brake discs. New discs & pads on the front will likely cure it.

They could be warped or have surface irregularities caused by material transfer from the brake pads if the brakes are held on when the car is stopped- quite common with automatics.

Taking a long time to stop could be one or more brakes stuck and not working- Kwik Fit or an MOT will check if they all work properly, or could just be that you are not used to the difference in effort required compared to your previous car.

LightFlare

Aside from the warnings about not using that particular company - I wouldn’t sugggest you try the other well known one beginning with H either.
Find a good,local,indie garage preferably via personal recommendations 

400ixl

If it is only happening at low speed and when coming to a stop I would look at the ABS side. Getting the codes read would be a first step.

Doesn't sound like a Calliper, Disk or pad issue.

Even worse than asking Kwik Fit is asking a non car related forum. Go and ask on a Mazda forum at the very least, but better is to go and speak to an independent Mazda specialist in your area or at least a good independent garage with the right diagnostic equipment. 

Goudy

If the steering is shaking when braking, it's at the road wheels where the problem is.

If it was the ABS activating that will cause the pedal to shudder but not the steering.
ABS is designed to pulse the brake fluid to prevent lock up's but still allow full range of steering.

I suspect it's got a brake disc runout issue.
The brake discs like a buckled bicycle wheel, are catching the rest of the braking system as it rotates.

This causes the steering to shake when the brakes are pressed but it also induces "pad knock", which reduces brake performance.

As the warp disc rotates, the part that's out of true pushes back the brake pads and pistons inside the brake caliper, repeatedly pushing the pads and discs apart even though you are squeezing the brake pedal harder and harder.
Each point the warped part of the disc passes the pads, it's effectively letting the brakes off.

Worn brake discs are the most common reason for this.
The thinner they wear the less able to handle the high heat generated by the brakes to they start to warp.

Another common issue is sloppy fitting of new discs.
If grit, rust and dirt get between the mating surfaces of the disc/hub, it causes the disc to run out.

It's difficult to get view on disc run out with the eye.
Usually if they are noticeably worn with a big lip around the edge it's time to replace, but you might need a Dial Test Indicator (DTI) to measure the round out of the disc if the discs "appear" good.

A worn wheel bearings can have a similar effect.
The hub is allowed wobble with the disc attached but when the brakes are applied, the caliper is attached to upright not the hub, so tend to cause a vibration between the two.




 

sheslookinhot

400ixl said:

If it is only happening at low speed and when coming to a stop I would look at the ABS side. Getting the codes read would be a first step.

Doesn't sound like a Calliper, Disk or pad issue.

Even worse than asking Kwik Fit is asking a non car related forum. Go and ask on a Mazda forum at the very least, but better is to go and speak to an independent Mazda specialist in your area or at least a good independent garage with the right diagnostic equipment. 

Nothing wrong with asking on the Motoring section of a forum. It lets the OP  consider the responses from all forum members. The response from Goudy above is as good as any you would get from any garage.

Why do you seem to inhabit and respond to many messages on a variety of sub forums of this message site ? I wonder what qualifies you to make comment on the posts where you do respond? Are you a qualified car mechanic ? 

Are you suggesting that forums where people seek information should not exist and that people should go to professionals ?

No need to respond, 

daveyjp

I had similar on a vehicle with only 8,000 miles.  Judder when braking from higher speeds.

Front disks changed under warranty and all was good for 50,000 miles.