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How to cap off 15mm water pipe

2

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  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
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    Micron said:
    It looks like when you cut the pipe you damaged the end, it will have to be cut back so the outside of the pipe is smooth and then fit a new olive, the old olive might never seal properly on the damaged pipe.


    Nice forensics!
    But, that's where a smear of compound will sort :smile: I often apply a tiny amount before slipping on the olive, and then a further smear over. And a tiny bit on the thread as a lube.



  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
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    kimwp said:
    Micron said:
    It looks like when you cut the pipe you damaged the end, it will have to be cut back so the outside of the pipe is smooth and then fit a new olive, the old olive might never seal properly on the damaged pipe.


    Thanks @micron, if you are pointing to the bump, that's water leaking from the joint. I've had another go at tightening it until I heard creaky sounds, and that seems to have stopped leaking now.

    The lines are my attempt to clean up the pipe to give a smooth surface, I think I did a better job where I was going to place the olive.
    You soooo need some compound!
    Just the tiniest smear needed. Applied to the fitting's thread, it'll also stop that hellish creak :-)
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,040 Forumite
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    Clean the pipe up with a bit of wire wool. When tightening up compression fittings, they only need to be nipped up a bit (eighth of a turn, quarter max). If you are cranking things up so tight you are hearing noises, you are going too tight.
    If the fitting is leaking, you either have a damaged pipe, or damaged fitting (olives should not be reused in an ideal world). A thin smear of jointing compound will help mask minor damage - Just don't use PTFE tape (that is for taper thread fittings, not compression).
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  • kimwp
    kimwp Posts: 2,795 Forumite
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    kimwp said:
    Micron said:
    It looks like when you cut the pipe you damaged the end, it will have to be cut back so the outside of the pipe is smooth and then fit a new olive, the old olive might never seal properly on the damaged pipe.


    Thanks @micron, if you are pointing to the bump, that's water leaking from the joint. I've had another go at tightening it until I heard creaky sounds, and that seems to have stopped leaking now.

    The lines are my attempt to clean up the pipe to give a smooth surface, I think I did a better job where I was going to place the olive.
    You soooo need some compound!
    Just the tiniest smear needed. Applied to the fitting's thread, it'll also stop that hellish creak :-)
    Is there not supposed to be a creak as the olive reforms onto the pipe?
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  • Grenage
    Grenage Posts: 3,173 Forumite
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    kimwp said:
    kimwp said:
    Micron said:
    It looks like when you cut the pipe you damaged the end, it will have to be cut back so the outside of the pipe is smooth and then fit a new olive, the old olive might never seal properly on the damaged pipe.


    Thanks @micron, if you are pointing to the bump, that's water leaking from the joint. I've had another go at tightening it until I heard creaky sounds, and that seems to have stopped leaking now.

    The lines are my attempt to clean up the pipe to give a smooth surface, I think I did a better job where I was going to place the olive.
    You soooo need some compound!
    Just the tiniest smear needed. Applied to the fitting's thread, it'll also stop that hellish creak :-)
    Is there not supposed to be a creak as the olive reforms onto the pipe?
    Ideally not. People normally over-tighten compression fittings.
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
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    edited 10 July 2024 at 12:33AM
    As Grenage says - the 'creak' is usually friction on the threads, dirty brass against brass. The olives don't make a sound as they compress, tho' might add to the music as the nut rotates against it.
    Seriously, get some compound. It'll sort all these annoying seeps and slow drips, and will make doing up yer nuts a quiet pleasure. Matron!
    Tiny smear is all. 

  • flashg67
    flashg67 Posts: 4,119 Forumite
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    Google tap wrench for the correct tool to tighten under the tap. Could just be condensation if it's the cold tap..?
  • kimwp
    kimwp Posts: 2,795 Forumite
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    edited 11 July 2024 at 10:30PM
    Went to B&Q and Screwfix and managed to forget to buy compound.

    I googled tap wrench, but the pipe has a big bend in it, which is making me think that these ones will be a pain to use (on phone so will save comment and add links later), because you'd slot them on and only be able to turn it a teeny bit before hitting pipe. Though maybe enough for this.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Installer-Entemah-Plumbing-Spanner-Multifunctional/

    I also saw these, but can't figure out how the tool head attaches to the nut?
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/DURATECH-Basin-Wrench-11inch/

    Is the spring enough to get a good grip? And the tool head going to fit in the space as it rotates?




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  • Vortigern
    Vortigern Posts: 3,302 Forumite
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    https://youtu.be/gwM9Sk3E_Ok?si=1NPy40RFWaw0bvfX
    YouTube video shows how to use a basin wrench. The spring just helps you to get the tool on the nut. The jaws are self-tightening and self-ratcheting if you have them the right way up. Try the tool on an accessible nut just to get the idea.
  • kimwp
    kimwp Posts: 2,795 Forumite
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    Vortigern said:
    https://youtu.be/gwM9Sk3E_Ok?si=1NPy40RFWaw0bvfX
    YouTube video shows how to use a basin wrench. The spring just helps you to get the tool on the nut. The jaws are self-tightening and self-ratcheting if you have them the right way up. Try the tool on an accessible nut just to get the idea.
    Amazing, thank you!
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