Blind fell down, want to put it back up but do it right.

I got a heavy set of blackout blinds last year that at the time I put up with regular wall plugs it came with and due to having a lintle in the wall I could only fit them a little further into the window frame area than I wanted, it wasn't perfectly aligned was off by a few mm but it went up, it did come off two or three times in a year when I pulled too hard, about 6 weeks ago I decided I would use those self tapping metal types that you put another screw into but since then it has come away from the wall twice one the end you pull the wire and each time ripped the connector out of the wall, though the first time I just put some wood filler inside the hole but not perfectly let it set for 2 days and then put a new self tapping one into same place.

I wonder if that wasn't strong enough.

Anyway I want to do it again but I won't be able to move the fitting unless its a few mm closer out of the way but is that all I can do? Or can I get some stronger filling material and try and put new holes next to that?

Comments

  • jonnydeppiwish!
    jonnydeppiwish! Posts: 1,405 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Mortgage-free Glee! Name Dropper
    What type of drill are you using? An SDS should provide ample depth with 6mm bit.  There are concrete screws that don’t require rawl plugs but a blind doesn’t necessitate them.
    2006 LBM £28,000+ in debt.
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  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
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    I got a heavy set of blackout blinds last year that at the time I put up with regular wall plugs it came with and due to having a lintle in the wall I could only fit them a little further into the window frame area than I wanted, it wasn't perfectly aligned was off by a few mm but it went up, it did come off two or three times in a year when I pulled too hard, about 6 weeks ago I decided I would use those self tapping metal types that you put another screw into but since then it has come away from the wall twice one the end you pull the wire and each time ripped the connector out of the wall, though the first time I just put some wood filler inside the hole but not perfectly let it set for 2 days and then put a new self tapping one into same place.

    I wonder if that wasn't strong enough.

    Anyway I want to do it again but I won't be able to move the fitting unless its a few mm closer out of the way but is that all I can do? Or can I get some stronger filling material and try and put new holes next to that?

    Hi Deka.
    It would help us a lot to see some photos - wide, and close-up - of the situation. It's hard to advise without this.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,863 Forumite
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    What type of drill are you using? An SDS should provide ample depth with 6mm bit.  There are concrete screws that don’t require rawl plugs but a blind doesn’t necessitate them.
    Depending on the age of the house,it could be a steel lintel. Older properties might be concrete/stone, or even timber.
    With a steel lintel, a sharp metal cutting drill is required - Start small (say 3mm) and work your way up to the desired size. Stone/concrete often needs the power of an SDS to get anywhere. And rather than using wall plugs, a resin would be stronger. With a timber lintel, aim for 25-30mm of screw going in to the wood.

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  • flashg67
    flashg67 Posts: 4,117 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Is is a modern property with dot/dab boarding? I used a baton on the wall to spread the load fixed with plasterboard fixings and loads of 'no nails' adhesive and then mounted the brackets to the baton.
  • casper_gutman
    casper_gutman Posts: 808 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 4 July 2024 at 8:14AM
    Could you fit a blind within the window reveal, cut to length to span right across between the two inward-facing surfaces with the fixings going outwards/away from each other? If the description isn't clear, check out page 22 of these instructions: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly_instructions/fridans-block-out-roller-blind-white__AA-2089508-7-100.pdf

    I find this gives a much more reliable fixing, as the screws just carry the vertical load in shear rather than trying to pull out of the wall.

    Here's a photo (FRIDANS block-out roller blind, white, 120x195 cm - IKEA):


  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,689 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    If you've got one of the older Catnic boot lintels it could be a problem getting a fix into it.
  • dekaspace1
    dekaspace1 Posts: 455 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    Sorry for late responses all, been a bit sickly with virus for over 2 weeks took a photo yesterday and will edit this post when its uploaded.

    It's a modernish flat around 16 years old, I did try and put it back up again last night but about half an inch away from where I filled in the hole just in case it wouldn't be strong enough, the self drill piece went in but the longer screw went so far and stopped so I imagine the lintle is there too.

    Need to fill in the holes again.

    I don't mind smaller blinds the issue there is its a 3 piece window i.e one single window on each side which have handles on each and one without in middle and opens inwards.

    I say it's the lintle as I am a beginner at DIY, all I know is when I set drill to regular or hammer mode even with a little force its only going so far in parts of the window frame.
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