Help with removing rusted screws

Eldi_Dos

Hopefully whoever comes to replace the pipework will have a Stihl saw,or similar, and will cut a slot in concrete just wide enough to dig down and replace pipe.The reinstated scar of concrete would be cured enough in a few days for decking to be put back in place.
It is a good idea to fill the area between joists with pea gravel/ gravel before putting decking onto joists, this will stop rodents setting up shop under decking.

casper_gutman

Mr.Generous said:

I agree with JohnB47, you'll never drill out a woodscrew. I'd use a pry bar and wrench the wood out - you might need some new boards. If the head is very rusty you might be able to chisel a straight line into the metal with an old chisel and unscrew it with a flat head screwdriver - or the chisel.

You'd have a better chance running the cordless in reverse with a metal bit in pushing it hard against the screw, sometimes it actually backs a stuck screw out because its trying to turn it in the unfasten direction.

I agree it's likely to be very difficult to drill out a screw from a timber board. The timber is so much softer and easier to drill than the metal that the drill will likely keep slipping off and making holes in the timber instead. I could see this working if you had a very rigid drill press to guide the drill, rather than using it handheld.

You might have more luck using a drill with a small holesaw to cut around the screw, then you can remove the board minus a small plug of material left with the screw, and cut this off with a hacksaw or an oscillating multitool equipped with a suitable blade.

The board would be reusable, but you'd need to repair the hole - e.g., by gluing in a plug cut from a suitably-sized piece of dowelling - then put in a new screw (probably avoiding the plug location).