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Electric Hob Help

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  • Hopefully these help 
  • So AO sent out a qualified gas engineer and electrician and the old gas hob needs to be cut off the supply or presume? So I’m hoping that will be ok 
  • DullGreyGuy
    DullGreyGuy Posts: 18,613 Forumite
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    Ah I understand, thank you so much for your help. It's such minefield working it out, I thought it would be easy! Is there any other options that would be better? Is hardwiring it in difficult, if I have the AO installation doing that or is that something they wouldn't do?
    It depends what wiring is there already... if it has only ever been a gas hob there then its likely to be a rings main and so its a notable change, how much effort that is depends how close the kitchen is to the consumer unit and if the consumer unit has spare spaces etc.

    Whilst we replaced a gas hob with induction we were ok because the old device was a dual fuel cooker with dual ovens so had a dedicated high amperage line for the original electric ovens so could simply use that without any changes (we had additional line added for our new electric ovens which are on the other side of the kitchen). 
  • Eldi_Dos
    Eldi_Dos Posts: 2,152 Forumite
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    It's just me and my partner, and it isn't a forever home or anything. It was previously rented before we bought it, so want to update the old hob and oven that have definitely seen better days.

    So the AO website says it can just be plugged in, which is obviously a UK website etc. So am I right in thinking that it can be plugged in to the existing plug fine,  I will just be limited to using a maximum of 2 rings at a time?
    One of the benefits with using a induction hob is you can lessen the amount of humidity created. With different cooking times it soon becomes second nature to turn pots down to a simmer, so normally no need to have all pans going full belt.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,259 Forumite
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    Looks like you have a dedicated cooker circuit - That should be up to the task of powering an induction hob. Still a bit too close though, and I doubt there is much scope to move either the isolation switch or the hob to increase the safety distance.
    Her courage will change the world.

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  • The AO electrician and gas registered worker, said that an electric hob would get over the issue of the switch that is close to the hob. Does that sound ok? He also said the hob could be wired in, which hopefully it can be too if needed.

    Eventually we'll look into a new kitchen, or even removing the splashback and tiling instead, and maybe even moving that socket, but I'm very naive when it comes to all these things! Thought an easy job has turned into something quite complicated!
  • Ah I understand, thank you so much for your help. It's such minefield working it out, I thought it would be easy! Is there any other options that would be better? Is hardwiring it in difficult, if I have the AO installation doing that or is that something they wouldn't do?
    It depends what wiring is there already... if it has only ever been a gas hob there then its likely to be a rings main and so its a notable change, how much effort that is depends how close the kitchen is to the consumer unit and if the consumer unit has spare spaces etc.

    Whilst we replaced a gas hob with induction we were ok because the old device was a dual fuel cooker with dual ovens so had a dedicated high amperage line for the original electric ovens so could simply use that without any changes (we had additional line added for our new electric ovens which are on the other side of the kitchen). 
    The consumer unit is very close, its to the left in a top cupboard about 1 1/2 cupboards away

    That makes a lot of sense!
  • DullGreyGuy
    DullGreyGuy Posts: 18,613 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    The AO electrician and gas registered worker, said that an electric hob would get over the issue of the switch that is close to the hob. Does that sound ok? He also said the hob could be wired in, which hopefully it can be too if needed.

    Eventually we'll look into a new kitchen, or even removing the splashback and tiling instead, and maybe even moving that socket, but I'm very naive when it comes to all these things! Thought an easy job has turned into something quite complicated!
    Gas hobs, with a naked flame, have stricter requirements around what can be where than electric. If you google Hot Zone and hob you'll find various diagrams explaining the clearance required. Not going to post any here as dont know what the current legal requirements are but certainly some (eg JL) show gas having a zone wider than the hob whereas electric is just above the hob which, if current, could mean a plug/siwtch to the side is ok for one and not for the other. 
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,987 Forumite
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    It took a while to dawn on me, but that socket next to the cooker is your cooker point.  It's got a 13A socket, and a big red switch for turning a cooker on and off.

    So rather than being lazy and plugging a hob into the 13A socket, what you need is someone competent enough in electrics to wire a hob into that big switch.

    If you have an electric oven, it may already be wired in to that switch.  That is not necessarily a problem.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
  • EssexExile
    EssexExile Posts: 6,462 Forumite
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    Has anyone mentioned the size of the hole in the worktop? It looks like you have laminate so making it bigger wouldn't be a problem, I doubt anyone sent by a retailer will be able to do it though. Making the hole smaller would be a problem too.
    Tall, dark & handsome. Well two out of three ain't bad.
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