Paint and/or primer for a new front exterior door.

anonymous12124

Could do with some guidance please.

This is the door:

https://www.wayfair.co.uk/home-improvement/pdp/lpd-doors-carolina-unglazed-hardwood-external-door-lpdd1296.html?piid=10042804

I was thinking the following two products but these are pricey and don't know if they're worth it:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-bulls-eye-1-2-3-primer-sealer-white-1ltr/10135

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Dulux-Weathershield-Gloss-Paint---Pure-Brilliant-White---750ml/p/173276

stuart45

The satinwood is an interior paint.

anonymous12124

stuart45 said:

The satinwood is an interior paint.

Yes - but I used it on another external door, around 6 years ago on the backdoor and it is still going strong. But it is the front that sees more of the violent rains and bright sunshine.

twopenny

Being an outside door I'd go for the traditional - wood primer, 2 undercoats and oil based gloss.
Unless it's in a heated enclosed porch it's going to be exposed to fluctuating temperature.

Bookworm105

the zinsser primer would be a waste of money. It's purpose is to act as a barrier to prevent other things showing through, such as water stains/ Yes it acts as a primer, but a lot of the cost is for the barrier function you do not need. 

You have a brand new door, there is nothing you need to stop from showing through, so you just need an ordinary wood primer.
Dulux weathershield is an excellent product, but it needs both an undercoat and you apply an undercoat on top of a primer coat. See guide here: The Weathershield Exterior Gloss System | Dulux

Yes there are self priming undercoats on the market if you wish to cut out the separate primer stage, but whatever you do, you will need a primer to cover bare wood and an undercoat for the top coat to stick to when using weathershield. When applied correctly to wood I can vouch for the fact weathershield lasts as long as it claims (or longer) I did mine 20+ years ago using the weathershield primer, undercoat, and top coat (oil based)

Also bear in mind don't mix water based and oil paints, stick with the same type for all coats. Oil won't stick as well to water as it would to oil paint and vice versa. The 2 links you have given in your opening post are water primer and oil top coat.

Albermarle

I had a new wooden front door. Partly protected from rain but gets a lot of full sun in the Summer.
Used a self priming undercoat and normal oil based gloss. Seemed to last the course pretty well.

ThisIsWeird

How would Zinsser 15-year AllCoat fair here?
Fully self-priming, water-based (they make a solvent one too, I think), and nice to use.
I did mil's softwood windows 2 or three years ago, some of which first needed refurb'ing - bits of rot dug out, preserver, hardener, filler - and then applied three coats of Zin to what was mostly old paint (lightly keyed), bare wood, filler, and putty. East-facing, and it is still perfect. 
The FH meanwhile repainted the timber patio doors, no idea what with, and it's extensively flaking off the timber beadings and other parts.
Zinsser describe it as 'the first coat acts as the primer...', and the first coat is the 'hardest' to apply - you can feel the friction of applying it - but subsequent coats flow on silkily. 
Don't do it in hot weather or direct sunshine tho', or it dries too quickly and you'll go blind
For that door, obviously trim it to size first, cut the hinge whatsits and holes/mortices for the door furniture so that they will receive the paint as well, remove sharpness from all timber edges with 120 or 180 grit, brush down fully, make sure it is acclimatised and bone dry, and I'd ideally lay it flat for painting. Apply three, possibly 4, coats to what will be the outside, including all 4 door edges. I'd probably then hang the door before doing the inside, or there'd be a risk of the trestle leaving a mark on the side you've done. Or, if in no rush, let the 'outside' fully dry, and turn it over.
I think I'd also be tempted to go 'satin' rather than gloss? I wonder if a mini roller would make short shift of this?

Mr.Generous

A new timber door will be kiln dried timber, good for various reasons but it means the timber will be very prone to moisture movement. I'd say a breathable or flexible paint system is important. Use weathershield gloss, but use the same undercoat and primer that allow controlled moisture movement. Otherwise the thick timbers absorb or lose more moisture than the thin panels and the door will open up joints, split panels, warp - or a combination of these.

Somewhere on the door will be detailed insructions - like make sure you treat all exposed timber surfaces, top and bottom edge are crucial, letter box cutout too. Lock cutout not as important but probably in the instructions.

I've done door inspections on "faulty" timber doors a few times, I'd take a small hand mirror and check top / bottom edge for paint - or better still - stain. The doors that failed had exposed timber on most occasions, and a gloss finish that had split letting water in on any other failure.

Edit:

https://www.lpddoors.co.uk/media/pdfs/Finishing_Guidelines.pdf

LPD door finishing guide is available online. It recommends a high build paint or stain that is micropourus. That is exactly what I'd use.

stuart45

I'd consider using linseed oil paint. External joinery used to last for many years until modern paints were used on them. 

anonymous12124

Thanks for the very informative updates.

Based on everything written I have decided I will go with the Dulux Weathershield Gloss White 750ml, I hope I can get 3 quality coats - based on reviews I should.

I am also waiting for the Dulux Primer and Undercoat to come through, altogether, with the roller sleeves and brush I will have spent in the order of £250 for this absolutely necessary project.

I will also be paint inside my garage with it lying flat on some old stools.

Bookworm105

anonymous12124 said:

I will also be paint inside my garage with it lying flat on some old stools.

don't forget to use a magnifying glass to find those annoying specks of dust that automatically home in on wet paint and thus create mountain ranges when viewed in certain light conditions