Should I spray this uPVC window frame grey?

flo22

Grey windows just looks like undercoat to me

abssorb

Tali1989 said:

Here’s another picture (would prefer not to show more of the house), my main concern is the strange pattern in the opening pattern of the windows (OP pic) and how it would look if the frames are painted grey, any thoughts on this? 

My plan is to use a brand called WRX (https://amzn.eu/d/iFONeMu)

Anyone know if this is likely to last a long time / look good compared to having it done professionally?

That's a very pixelated photo.  Is that yellow stone or grey?

Yellow stone buildings have already used grey, green and blue window finished for decades and will endure future fads.  

We did one of our upvc windows as an experiment 5 years ago, and it looks great and endured the finish, so we did the rest.  

We used valspar exterior satin for the finish, two coats. We used a grey not quite as dark as RAL 7024.
We were told that an etch primer is absolutely essential, as is keying with a sander.   150 grit with a mouse sander is fast and easy. Primer we used Zinsser 1-2-3.  5 years on, still solid with no wear.

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/paint-plastic-upvc/
The dark colour absorbing heat - no negative effects.

Spraying is a huge amount of pre-work.  A builder commented that I'm not painting a car, that no-one is going to notice brushwork, especially with satin.  He was spot on.  We found that a small roller and brush was faster and more effective. The coating is thicker and stronger.

The problem you will encounter is you have to keep your windows open for 24 hours for curing.  If you close the window, even after drying time, the rubber seals can stick and pull the paint off.  You can put a fine coat of silicone grease or pet jelly on the seals to help with this. Once the paint has properly hardened for 48hrs, it's very tough.

Your windows seem to be internally beaded? Too pixely to be sure. If so, you can paint first and change the glass later.   

It makes a big difference if you also do any white guttering grey too.  Black guttering would look OK.

Chickereeeee

I used Zinsser Allcoat Exterior (waterbased) on UPVC that had been weathered 3 years. No rubbing down, no primer. Just a quick clean. Fast drying, so no problem with windows.

Still perfect after 4 years. Magic stuff.

ThisIsWeird

Chickereeeee said:

I used Zinsser Allcoat Exterior (waterbased) on UPVC that had been weathered 3 years. No rubbing down, no primer. Just a quick clean. Fast drying, so no problem with windows.

Still perfect after 4 years. Magic stuff.

Ditto - but I did clean the PVC down with a pan scourer first, tobesuretobesure. Looks good a couple of years later, tho' I haven't cleaned it down in anger yet...

I also recoated a faded bumper on an old Transit van, again having scoured it well first. It was transformational - looked just like a new bumper! However, I have since reattached a reflector on to the bumper, holding it temp in place with tape (can't recall if it was masking or ordinary), but the tape pulled off the paint when removed...

So I wonder just how well it adheres to some plastics. The bumper will have been a different plastic to PVC, tho' - perhaps polypropylene? That's pretty waxy stuff, and hard to adhere to, I guess.

As recommended earlier, I'd leave the opener on 'vent' setting for as long as possible.

And leave that nice leading in place :-)

Albermarle

So I wonder just how well it adheres to some plastics. The bumper will have been a different plastic to PVC, tho' - perhaps polypropylene? That's pretty waxy stuff, and hard to adhere to, I guess.

You are right that with Polypropylene and Polyethylene ( Polythene), it is difficult to get things to stick to them.

However car bumpers are usually made from Polycarbonate or composites of plastic, rubber and reinforcing filler. They are designed so that they can be painted easily, with automotive paints anyway.