We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.

This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.

📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
The Forum now has a brand new text editor, adding a bunch of handy features to use when creating posts. Read more in our how-to guide

Car oil (for topping up)

We have an (oldish) Ford and (older) Vauxhall. The vauxhall needs occassional oil top ups, and the Ford is near the minimum on the dipstick level.
In the respective handbooks Ford recommends 5W-20 (but states 5W-30 is acceptable. The vauxhall needs 5W30.  Searching on the various car suppliers webistes you can put you reg in and they will list compatible oils. But none of them come up with the same brand although when reading the spec they seem only subtly different.
So my question really is whether there is very much difference between 5W-30 oils, becasue I'd much rather buy one 5L can for both vehicles.
Any thoughts please?

Comments

  • fatbelly
    fatbelly Posts: 23,692 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Cashback Cashier
    I can't see you would go far wrong with a 5w30 from a decent brand
  • Goudy
    Goudy Posts: 2,423 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Fords and Vauxhalls generally run on different specifications of oil.

    They might be of similar grades (viscosities), like 5w/20 or 5w/30, but the specs are usually different.

    Engine oil is usually quoted in the handbook by:
    Industry standard grades, like 5w/30
    Industry standard specifications, like ACEA, (Euro) API (American) or JASO (Japanese).
    Manufacturers own specification, like Fords WSS-M2***-* or Vauxhall's GMdexos.

    I suspect one will be something like ACEA  A1 and the other something like ACEA C1.

    Check both handbooks, if they both can take 5w/30 ACEA A1 then you're ok.
  • Ommbiance
    Ommbiance Posts: 27 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 10 Posts
    Thanks for responses.  I couldn't find one which matched exactly for both vehicles.  I'm pretty sure there's a little bit of marketing involved in all of this, and agree a quality brand would proably suffice, but in the end I did find an exact compatible oil (based on the WSS code) for the Ford, so have gone for that. 
  • Goudy
    Goudy Posts: 2,423 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 15 March 2024 at 10:45AM
    I'm sure there's more to the specs than marketing.

    Generally (very generally) your ACEA oils are grouped in A, B and C (E is heavy duty oils)

    Each has a number along with the different letters, but they mean different things.

    A1/B1 oils are low friction oils.
    A3/B3 oils low friction with extended drain intervals.
    These will be very similar.

    A3/B4 are low friction, high temp performance oils

    A5/B5 are low friction high temp and high shear performance oils.

    A7/B7 are low friction high temp, high shear suitable for direct injected turbo engines.

    Getting these wrong can generally damage things like turbos as the oil lubricates and cools a very fast spinning bearing. 
    You sometimes hear warranty claims on turbos being rejected because they have tested the oil and it's the wrong spec.


    C grades are similar but the C stands for Catalyst compatible.
    1, 2 and 3 relate to the amount of SAPS (Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulfur.) along with things like shear rates and temp stability.

    1 is low SAPS
    2 is mid SAPS
    3 is also mid SAPS (but a higher shear rating than 1 or 2)

    Getting these wrong can damage catalytic converts and particulate filters, along with turbos if the temp and shear rates are also wrong.

    Obviously the Japanese and American industry standards have their own different ways of identifying the differences of spec.

    The manufacturers try to make is easier for you.
    They tell you the grade and their own spec code/number that you need. (and often a recommended brand, which is marketing).

    This means you don't need to work through all the industry standard grades working out what you need, you just select the right grade that has the right manufacturer spec code/number.

    The manufacturer will also usually give you the correct ACEA/API/JASO spec as well.
    It will almost certainly be one of the ACEA/API/JASO oils and if it's the right ACEA/API?JASO spec without the manufacturers code, it will be ok.

  • Ommbiance
    Ommbiance Posts: 27 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 10 Posts
    Thanks for a comprehensive answer Goudy; interesting and not something I've really given a lot of thought to in the past.   My conclusion is that it's not a good idea to skimp on oil for the cars as it's a relatively low cost item for the value it provides.
Meet your Ambassadors

🚀 Getting Started

Hi new member!

Our Getting Started Guide will help you get the most out of the Forum

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 353.8K Banking & Borrowing
  • 254.3K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 455.2K Spending & Discounts
  • 246.9K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 603.4K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 178.3K Life & Family
  • 261K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 16K Discuss & Feedback
  • 37.7K Read-Only Boards

Is this how you want to be seen?

We see you are using a default avatar. It takes only a few seconds to pick a picture.