Buying a car from Private Seller via bank transfer

400ixl

jeremymbwilson said:

Was just trying to take a "belt and braces" approach if there was a way to do a bank transfer through e.g. Revolut.

Revolut is the least trustworthy company on the planet and is not a bank, they have been refused that multiple times due to their working practices (nad been investigated for not having competent anti-fraud policies in place).

You could maybe go through Paypal (not the friends and family route) but that will have some fees.

On a private sale though, unless they have lied about anything there isn't any come back on the seller. So protection will be very limited and not worth the fees. 

Mutton_Geoff

You don't have any rights buying from a private seller regardless of how you pay unless the advert truly misrepresented the car. Even then, good luck pursuing it.

Find or pay someone who knows about cars. There are plenty of usable bargains but many £1,000 cars are going to be near end of life and if it lasted you 3 years, you've done well in Bangernomics.

I've sold almost all my cars over the last 20 years via Autotrader ads and bank transfer payments (one was cash for £3,500). Values up to £35k, had no problems at all.

user1977

jeremymbwilson said:

The car turns out to be a "dud" and I have right of redress.  It may only be £1,000, but I don't know much about cars and don't want my wife to buy a car that doesn't live up to what it is.  I would like to have some form of financial redress if that happens.  Buying it on a credit card would give me that - doing a bank transfer gives me zero support.

It wouldn't give you a right of redress if your wife is the buyer - the buyer and the debtor need to be the same party in order for a s75 claim to work.

Aylesbury_Duck

Taking a step back...buying a £1000 car when you know little about cars sounds like a recipe for trouble.  Do you know anyone competent you can take with you?  At that price, a lot of cars will be "duds".  You can get lucky of course, but expecting anything more than a year's trouble-free motoring is probably ambitious.

jeremymbwilson

@user1977, @born_again, @cymruchris, @Spies, @Veteransaver, @400ixl, @Mutton_Geoff, @Aylesbury_Duck - Thank you all so much for your comments and advice - all taken on board !

This forum/community is fantastic - such helpful, friendly people.  In this day and age where everybody seems to be out for themselves, it is reassuring to experience somewhere where people are genuinely happy to help.

Many thanks, all - much appreciated !

OutdoorQueen

This link provides some information which may be useful:
https://www.devonsomersettradingstandards.gov.uk/consumer/buying-a-second-hand-vehicle-heres-what-you-need-to-know/

There are fewer rights under the Consumer Rights Act when purchasing from a private seller.  If you are only paying £1000, there will be a reason why it’s £1000, perhaps age , high mileage or repaired accident damage. Any problems are more likely to be classed as wear and tear, and no redress is available under the Act for this.   

SteveJW

I would want at least a twelve month MOT

Also check the vehicles MOT history at https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

This is free, do not fall for websites trying to charge you for a vehicles MOT history

Have they any receipts for repairs, for example new battery, cam belt etc

Ask how long they have had the vehicle, short time they could have bought it and found an expensive fault, saying that I bought a car from someone who had only had it a couple of weeks, it lasted me at least 10 years

Also make and model would help

pinkshoes

@jeremymbwilson

The reason private sale cars are so cheap compared to buying from a garage is because they have NO guarantees. They just have to be as described.

The same car will no doubt be £2000 from a dealer. 

If you know nothing about cars, then you are potentially throwing away £1000. At the very least pay for a professional mechanic to look over the car, or take someone along that does know about cars.

At the very least, check:
1. Tyres (are they above legal limit)
2. Dents/Scratches/uneven or odd gaps in panels (signs the car has been in a crash).
3. ASK if it's been in an accident. 
4. Have a look under the bonnet - does it look well maintained or is it full of leaves and filth??
5. Test EVERYTHING. Especially the electrics. Radio, lights, windows etc...
6. Take it for a test drive. 
7. Check how long they've had it and how many owners (e.g. are they getting rid very quickly).

My DH bought a motorbike private sale (£8000). The engine blew 3 weeks later, but as he test drove it and gave it a thorough check then unfortunately he couldn't do anything about it. He suspected the seller might have thrashed it and was getting rid of it as he'd noticed a problem, but there was no way DH could prove this. 

Gavin83

400ixl said:

jeremymbwilson said:

Was just trying to take a "belt and braces" approach if there was a way to do a bank transfer through e.g. Revolut.

You could maybe go through Paypal (not the friends and family route) but that will have some fees.

Just for the record I'm fairly sure any protection through PayPal requires the item to be delivered (which is unlikely for a private car sale) and I think it explicitly excludes cars anyway. So for this purpose that wouldn't work either.