Sloping threshold

Louiselody

I tiled my bathroom and laid laminate in my hall. Unfortunately there’s a big gap between the two. I need a sloping reducer/threshold that is at least 6cm. Any ideas? The slope will need to be quite steep to allow the door to close. Thanks 

MikeJXE

https://www.toolstation.com/wide-carpet-plate/p44175?store=NV&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA29auBhBxEiwAnKcSqvYTNs53uB-JJgr08ObhQEndlK6-U-MZ72wB084Ds7nhzXYDmdjz7BoCEHYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thats 60mm wide but your door looks lower than the laminate 

grumbler

Louiselody said:

The slope will need to be quite steep to allow the door to close. 

I don't see how this can work without cutting the laminate plank.

https://www.nationalstairnosings.co.uk/threshold-transition-strips/ - some random website where are some ramp thresholds, including 60mm wide.

Louiselody

Yeah I can’t see a solution either. But cutting the laminate as in increasing the gap so that the slope starts further back and the door can still close? Or something else? What if I get the flexible tape threshold. Put it down just across the gap. Caulk. And then sort of cap the edge of the laminate somehow or just neaten up the edge? 

MikeJXE

Louiselody said:

Yeah I can’t see a solution either. But cutting the laminate as in increasing the gap so that the slope starts further back and the door can still close? Or something else? What if I get the flexible tape threshold. Put it down just across the gap. Caulk. And then sort of cap the edge of the laminate somehow or just neaten up the edge? 

Fine if you want a crap job.

The door isn't a problem as you can shave some off the bottom

FreeBear

Do you have another plank of that laminate ?

If so, cut it so that the edge is straight, and it fits properly around the door frame. With access to a router table & table saw, it wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate a threshold strip. Or something like this -> https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/darwin-oak-effect-threshold-311324 - Available in other colours, and it can account for a small difference in heights.

pmartin86

Good effort for laying the floors yourself, I always have respect for those that are willing to try and willing to have a go.

- Do you have any spare laminate?

- Do you have any spare tile?

Idealy, you need to remove the edge bits of both and recut, the laminate is fairly close to the right line based on the door trims, but needsw to be straight, and the corner into the frame is a bit off - take a bit of time, make a template, dotn use a jogsaw, cut slowly and carefully, take small bits off to clean up.

Those 5 and a half edlge tiles are drifting to the left as you look at them, if you dont have any otehr projects, rent a decent tile cutter, again, make a template, keep the gap consistent and get nice clean cuts, work up from bottom to top and use the last tiles top edge as the starting point for the next one, if you get the angle right on the firs tile, the rest should be trivial.

In short, the finishes are the bits that takes the most time, put a little more time into them and the end result will be more than wort it.

Louiselody

pmartin86 said:

Good effort for laying the floors yourself, I always have respect for those that are willing to try and willing to have a go.

- Do you have any spare laminate?

- Do you have any spare tile?

Idealy, you need to remove the edge bits of both and recut, the laminate is fairly close to the right line based on the door trims, but needsw to be straight, and the corner into the frame is a bit off - take a bit of time, make a template, dotn use a jogsaw, cut slowly and carefully, take small bits off to clean up.

Those 5 and a half edlge tiles are drifting to the left as you look at them, if you dont have any otehr projects, rent a decent tile cutter, again, make a template, keep the gap consistent and get nice clean cuts, work up from bottom to top and use the last tiles top edge as the starting point for the next one, if you get the angle right on the firs tile, the rest should be trivial.

In short, the finishes are the bits that takes the most time, put a little more time into them and the end result will be more than wort it.

Thank you for your reply and suggestions. That makes sense. The shift left that you spotted is because as I got to that area (I started from the other end of the room) the floor just suddenly sloped steeply up and I couldn’t work out how to adjust for it. So I cut the final tiles a bit shorter and hoped to do a sloping reducer, which I can see now won’t work given the door height. It’s a very wonky house…

mexican_dave

In a situation like this I would take piece of hardwood and plane it to fit the shape you need. Screw it to the substrate and finish with an wax/oil treatment for a nice shine. Obviously time consuming! That's the price you pay for not dealing with the change in levels before laying the flooring.

Silvertabby

mexican_dave said:

In a situation like this I would take piece of hardwood and plane it to fit the shape you need. Screw it to the substrate and finish with an wax/oil treatment for a nice shine. Obviously time consuming! That's the price you pay for not dealing with the change in levels before laying the flooring.

When we had engineered oak flooring laid our fitter created a bespoke threshold strip (from offcuts) for the join between the dining room and the (LVT) kitchen.  The gap wasn't as extreme as yours, but a standard threshold strip just wouldn't have worked.

Louiselody

Thanks for the comments and sorry for the delay. I’ve removed the laminate plank and found an unused spare which I will replace it with, after planing the door. Then I’ll have a stab at creating a threshold (or maybe a standard sloping one will work once the gap is reduced). Thanks all!