We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
Choosing between LVT and Laminate flooring

cAteriNs
Posts: 2 Newbie

I'm (hopefully) soon to be a new house owner with zero knowledge about most of the things. I've been told that the first and most important thing is figuring out the flooring as nothing much can be done without flooring is sorted out (it's newly built house)
It seems like I have 2 options, going LVT or laminate flooring way, both have ups and downs. I have a friend that bought house from same estate and went with LVT way. LVT looks super nice, but I think the ground floor is super cold at some points (ground floor of the houses are bare cement and upstairs has some wooden stuff on floor).
I got in touch with seller/installer of a LVT brand and I've been told that click and install type LVT has built in underlay already so it's not recommended to use underlay with those type of models, and I was told if I want underlay, I should go with laminate way. But I don't know if all LVT brands and types have same thing.
My question is : Is it possible to use underlay with any type of LVT (click or glue down type)? If yes, which type is most suitable for that?
I will get it professionally installed, and my main concern is having warm (or at least not super cold) flooring and I have been told this can be achieved with an underlay.
Thanks!
0
Comments
-
Laminate unless it’s very cheap I would avoid. Gets damaged easily, not waterproof and generally looks artificial. Glue down LVT has the potential to look bad/ fail if not fitted by experienced fitters. I would go with SPC click flooring with a build in underlay. You can get good quality brands like Pro-Tek for £25 per sqm.2
-
We have laminate, glued down LVT and tiles in different rooms. Personally I find LVT warmer underfoot than laminate or tiles.0
-
Hi cAt.
Being a new house, the concrete floor will surely have insulation in it to current regs? In which case, the sensation of the floor being cold will only be skin-deep, and your choice of floor covering should have very little/zero effect on the overall room's warmth.
Sil had glued-down LVT laid on the concrete floor of her ~20-year old house, with no feeling that it's 'cold'. Mil has just done ditto on her similarly aged bungie, but that has UFH...
You will presumably have rugs laid in appropriate places in any case, say around seating areas and where folk may even like sitting on the floor at gatherings, or where kids play?
So, given an insulated concrete floor, I wouldn't make 'cold' a major factor in the decision. Interestingly, most of those plying for the floor job we're cautioning against the thinner 'click' floating LVT as being less reliable than glue down. Not only would it have expansion movement, but the click feature would be thin and vulnerable. Against glued-down is that it may feel harder underfoot.
In practice, this solidity isn't an issue, and there is even a surprisingly amount of movement in suspended concrete floors.
In short, if you want the most reliable system, then it appears to be glued-down LVT - fit and forget. They can also be as deeply textured and durable as the alternatives, if not more so, and plank bevels add to the natural look.
Should a plank get damaged, it's also the easiest to replace.
0 -
cAteriNs said:I'm (hopefully) soon to be a new house owner with zero knowledge about most of the things. I've been told that the first and most important thing is figuring out the flooring as nothing much can be done without flooring is sorted out (it's newly built house)It seems like I have 2 options, going LVT or laminate flooring way, both have ups and downs. I have a friend that bought house from same estate and went with LVT way. LVT looks super nice, but I think the ground floor is super cold at some points (ground floor of the houses are bare cement and upstairs has some wooden stuff on floor).I got in touch with seller/installer of a LVT brand and I've been told that click and install type LVT has built in underlay already so it's not recommended to use underlay with those type of models, and I was told if I want underlay, I should go with laminate way. But I don't know if all LVT brands and types have same thing.My question is : Is it possible to use underlay with any type of LVT (click or glue down type)? If yes, which type is most suitable for that?I will get it professionally installed, and my main concern is having warm (or at least not super cold) flooring and I have been told this can be achieved with an underlay.
Thanks!To hopefully clarify a few other points, yes, the click-type LVT, including SPC - typically around 6mm thick - will usually have a built-in rubbery underlay in order to cope with tiny subfloor irregularities and to provide a small amount of cushioning, and you cannot add any more underlay to this. The subfloor needs to be firm and even (a latex levelling skim is usually put down first), as any movement risks the thin 'click' joints breaking. Some - the vinyl types - are very weak, and you could snap them off by hand easily.I have a sample of 6mm SPC flooring here, and just measured the thinnest part of the 'click' - 2.2mm. Being SPC, it's strong and doesn't flex at all, but I recall an earlier sample of click vinyl that I had snapped off with just finger and thumb. In theory it should be fine - provided the subfloor is dead level.Any floating floor will also need an expansion gap, hidden by fitting the skirting boards afterwards, or by adding decorative beading.If you go thicker laminate - 12mm or more - then that's a different ball game again.2 -
It seems like I have 2 options, going LVT or laminate flooring way, both have ups and downs.
What about carpet?
Also sheet vinyl is cheaper and easier to lay than LVT . Not quite as hard wearing and more limited number of patterns, but not bad if you pay for a better quality,
1 -
ThisIsWeird said:cAteriNs said:I'm (hopefully) soon to be a new house owner with zero knowledge about most of the things. I've been told that the first and most important thing is figuring out the flooring as nothing much can be done without flooring is sorted out (it's newly built house)It seems like I have 2 options, going LVT or laminate flooring way, both have ups and downs. I have a friend that bought house from same estate and went with LVT way. LVT looks super nice, but I think the ground floor is super cold at some points (ground floor of the houses are bare cement and upstairs has some wooden stuff on floor).I got in touch with seller/installer of a LVT brand and I've been told that click and install type LVT has built in underlay already so it's not recommended to use underlay with those type of models, and I was told if I want underlay, I should go with laminate way. But I don't know if all LVT brands and types have same thing.My question is : Is it possible to use underlay with any type of LVT (click or glue down type)? If yes, which type is most suitable for that?I will get it professionally installed, and my main concern is having warm (or at least not super cold) flooring and I have been told this can be achieved with an underlay.
Thanks!To hopefully clarify a few other points, yes, the click-type LVT, including SPC - typically around 6mm thick - will usually have a built-in rubbery underlay in order to cope with tiny subfloor irregularities and to provide a small amount of cushioning, and you cannot add any more underlay to this. The subfloor needs to be firm and even (a latex levelling skim is usually put down first), as any movement risks the thin 'click' joints breaking. Some - the vinyl types - are very weak, and you could snap them off by hand easily.I have a sample of 6mm SPC flooring here, and just measured the thinnest part of the 'click' - 2.2mm. Being SPC, it's strong and doesn't flex at all, but I recall an earlier sample of click vinyl that I had snapped off with just finger and thumb. In theory it should be fine - provided the subfloor is dead level.Any floating floor will also need an expansion gap, hidden by fitting the skirting boards afterwards, or by adding decorative beading.If you go thicker laminate - 12mm or more - then that's a different ball game again.
LVT = Luxury Vinyl Tile - which means it is manufactured from PVC polymer with various additives in it.
SPC - Stone Plastic Composite - Despite the name however, it is also PVC polymer with various additives in it .
The only real difference is that with SPC is that there is more low cost mineral filler mixed in it before the tile is formed, and less expensive plasticiser oil. So it is cheaper to make and more rigid than LVT . Probably harder wearing, but also has a harder feel underfoot.
The click parts will also be PVC, but they will also be of variable quality from one manufacturer to the other and probably lesser quality with SPC than LVT as it is a more budget product.
Sheet vinyl is also made primarily from PVC polymer, but has more plasticiser oil in it that makes it more flexible, to the point it can be rolled up easily. So it has a softer feel but will not last as long as the LVT and SPC tiles., although it normally comes with a 7 to 10 year guarantee. Lino would be similar but a bit less flexible.
Cushion Vinyl is like sheet vinyl but with a foam backing. This makes it feel very luxurious but is prone to damage by sharp objects.3 -
Albermarle said:ThisIsWeird said:cAteriNs said:I'm (hopefully) soon to be a new house owner with zero knowledge about most of the things. I've been told that the first and most important thing is figuring out the flooring as nothing much can be done without flooring is sorted out (it's newly built house)It seems like I have 2 options, going LVT or laminate flooring way, both have ups and downs. I have a friend that bought house from same estate and went with LVT way. LVT looks super nice, but I think the ground floor is super cold at some points (ground floor of the houses are bare cement and upstairs has some wooden stuff on floor).I got in touch with seller/installer of a LVT brand and I've been told that click and install type LVT has built in underlay already so it's not recommended to use underlay with those type of models, and I was told if I want underlay, I should go with laminate way. But I don't know if all LVT brands and types have same thing.My question is : Is it possible to use underlay with any type of LVT (click or glue down type)? If yes, which type is most suitable for that?I will get it professionally installed, and my main concern is having warm (or at least not super cold) flooring and I have been told this can be achieved with an underlay.
Thanks!To hopefully clarify a few other points, yes, the click-type LVT, including SPC - typically around 6mm thick - will usually have a built-in rubbery underlay in order to cope with tiny subfloor irregularities and to provide a small amount of cushioning, and you cannot add any more underlay to this. The subfloor needs to be firm and even (a latex levelling skim is usually put down first), as any movement risks the thin 'click' joints breaking. Some - the vinyl types - are very weak, and you could snap them off by hand easily.I have a sample of 6mm SPC flooring here, and just measured the thinnest part of the 'click' - 2.2mm. Being SPC, it's strong and doesn't flex at all, but I recall an earlier sample of click vinyl that I had snapped off with just finger and thumb. In theory it should be fine - provided the subfloor is dead level.Any floating floor will also need an expansion gap, hidden by fitting the skirting boards afterwards, or by adding decorative beading.If you go thicker laminate - 12mm or more - then that's a different ball game again.
LVT = Luxury Vinyl Tile - which means it is manufactured from PVC polymer with various additives in it.
SPC - Stone Plastic Composite - Despite the name however, it is also PVC polymer with various additives in it .
The only real difference is that with SPC is that there is more low cost mineral filler mixed in it before the tile is formed, and less expensive plasticiser oil. So it is cheaper to make and more rigid than LVT . Probably harder wearing, but also has a harder feel underfoot.
The click parts will also be PVC, but they will also be of variable quality from one manufacturer to the other and probably lesser quality with SPC than LVT as it is a more budget product.
Sheet vinyl is also made primarily from PVC polymer, but has more plasticiser oil in it that makes it more flexible, to the point it can be rolled up easily. So it has a softer feel but will not last as long as the LVT and SPC tiles., although it normally comes with a 7 to 10 year guarantee. Lino would be similar but a bit less flexible.
Cushion Vinyl is like sheet vinyl but with a foam backing. This makes it feel very luxurious but is prone to damage by sharp objects.Yes...but...but...but...Damn, the fellow's an expert :-(Useful info - thank you.Is there actually a 'sheet' vinyl that looks as good as 'plank'? There should be, imo, but it often comes down to the pitiful V-groove or 'grout' detail, that makes sheet look like shet.0 -
ThisIsWeird said:Albermarle said:ThisIsWeird said:cAteriNs said:I'm (hopefully) soon to be a new house owner with zero knowledge about most of the things. I've been told that the first and most important thing is figuring out the flooring as nothing much can be done without flooring is sorted out (it's newly built house)It seems like I have 2 options, going LVT or laminate flooring way, both have ups and downs. I have a friend that bought house from same estate and went with LVT way. LVT looks super nice, but I think the ground floor is super cold at some points (ground floor of the houses are bare cement and upstairs has some wooden stuff on floor).I got in touch with seller/installer of a LVT brand and I've been told that click and install type LVT has built in underlay already so it's not recommended to use underlay with those type of models, and I was told if I want underlay, I should go with laminate way. But I don't know if all LVT brands and types have same thing.My question is : Is it possible to use underlay with any type of LVT (click or glue down type)? If yes, which type is most suitable for that?I will get it professionally installed, and my main concern is having warm (or at least not super cold) flooring and I have been told this can be achieved with an underlay.
Thanks!To hopefully clarify a few other points, yes, the click-type LVT, including SPC - typically around 6mm thick - will usually have a built-in rubbery underlay in order to cope with tiny subfloor irregularities and to provide a small amount of cushioning, and you cannot add any more underlay to this. The subfloor needs to be firm and even (a latex levelling skim is usually put down first), as any movement risks the thin 'click' joints breaking. Some - the vinyl types - are very weak, and you could snap them off by hand easily.I have a sample of 6mm SPC flooring here, and just measured the thinnest part of the 'click' - 2.2mm. Being SPC, it's strong and doesn't flex at all, but I recall an earlier sample of click vinyl that I had snapped off with just finger and thumb. In theory it should be fine - provided the subfloor is dead level.Any floating floor will also need an expansion gap, hidden by fitting the skirting boards afterwards, or by adding decorative beading.If you go thicker laminate - 12mm or more - then that's a different ball game again.
LVT = Luxury Vinyl Tile - which means it is manufactured from PVC polymer with various additives in it.
SPC - Stone Plastic Composite - Despite the name however, it is also PVC polymer with various additives in it .
The only real difference is that with SPC is that there is more low cost mineral filler mixed in it before the tile is formed, and less expensive plasticiser oil. So it is cheaper to make and more rigid than LVT . Probably harder wearing, but also has a harder feel underfoot.
The click parts will also be PVC, but they will also be of variable quality from one manufacturer to the other and probably lesser quality with SPC than LVT as it is a more budget product.
Sheet vinyl is also made primarily from PVC polymer, but has more plasticiser oil in it that makes it more flexible, to the point it can be rolled up easily. So it has a softer feel but will not last as long as the LVT and SPC tiles., although it normally comes with a 7 to 10 year guarantee. Lino would be similar but a bit less flexible.
Cushion Vinyl is like sheet vinyl but with a foam backing. This makes it feel very luxurious but is prone to damage by sharp objects.Yes...but...but...but...Damn, the fellow's an expert :-(Useful info - thank you.Is there actually a 'sheet' vinyl that looks as good as 'plank'? There should be, imo, but it often comes down to the pitiful V-groove or 'grout' detail, that makes sheet look like shet.
It was fitted on top of the existing sheet vinyl floor which helped to hide any small unevenness in the floor that we had previously.
Cheaper than LVT too ( also a lot quicker to fit)and with a 10 year guarantee.2 -
Are these your only options?
We have (tile effect) Karndean LVT in the kitchen and bathrooms. It's lovely and is still looks as good today as when it was fitted some years ago. But we have engineered oak throughout the hall, living room and dining room. Looks fabulous, wears well and feels much warmer than the Karndean.3 -
Thanks a lot for all the detailed and helpful answers, I should admit I am a even more confused with all the details, but I think I will try to keep things simple and cheaper. Engineered oak looks way nicer but it looks more expensive compared to Karndean LVT (rigid core models). From my understanding, this cold floor issue will be specific to living room (maybe because there is door to back garden) but most budget friendly option for me will be getting a carpet. The kitchen floor wasn't that cold on my friend's house and rest of the rooms are upstairs so it should be better.I read that Karndean's Van Gogh rigid core models are a tad thicker compared to knight title (not sure if it's actual) and the seller said they have some SCP models also in their showroom. So I will choose between SCP or Karndean and use carpet on living room floor to cover up cold spot issues.I'm a bit worried about laminate's wear and tear issue and like I said engineered floors are more expensive compared to Karndean's rigid core models, I don't want to cheap out but I don't want to spend a fortune either.1
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 350.3K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.8K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.2K Spending & Discounts
- 243.2K Work, Benefits & Business
- 597.7K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.6K Life & Family
- 256.2K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards