Replacing radiator in my loft conversion

pieroabcd
pieroabcd Posts: 674 Forumite
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HI,
I'd like to replace my radiator that looks very much like this https://www.columnrads.co.uk/450h-x-1180w-3-column-horizontal-white-radiator
(118x45 cm)

with a T22 of the same length but 60cm high, like this that has almost twice the thermal power
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-type-22-double-panel-double-convector-radiator-600mm-x-1200mm-white-6998btu/612xp
(120x60 cm)
I have several Flomasta T21 and T22 radiators, they become very hot very quickly.
The thermal power of the intended replacement is 7k BTU, almost double the thermal power of the one that I have.

The column radiator takes ages to become hot, and it's definitely less hot than the T22 models that I have.

The problems that I see are two (and maybe there are more):
1. the weight of the T22 is 36 KG. The weight of the column radiator I don't know. If it's the model that I linked it 28KG, 8 KG more. (It doesn't "look" that heavy to say the truth, but I've never lifted it)
2. the attachments seem to be totally different

To my understanding there are no bricks in loft conversions, right? So what supports the current setup? what material are the current holes dug into?
Are 8 kg more likely to be a risk?
I have absolutely no knowledge of the structure of loft conversions and I'm afraid that I don't have the freedom to drill holes that I have with a brick structure.
Is there any web site explaining how to deal with them?

Thanks
«1

Comments

  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
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    pieroabcd said:

    To my understanding there are no bricks in loft conversions, right?
    Nope. This depends. Gable and party walls can be brick. Brick plastered, brick with dot&dab plasterboard, brick with studs and plasterboard.
    Other walls, most likely, are stud walls.
    So what supports the current setup? what material are the current holes dug into?
    You know better. How does the wall sound? If it's a stud wall, the correct way is to locate studs and fix the brackets to the studs. However heavy duty fixings for plasterboard do exist.

    ...I'm afraid that I don't have the freedom to drill holes that I have with a brick structure.
    This freedom is deceptive: electric cables, loose mortar between bricks...
  • pieroabcd
    pieroabcd Posts: 674 Forumite
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    It sounds very hollow.
    The radiator is positioned under the window, not on a party wall.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,014 Forumite
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    grumbler said: If it's a stud wall, the correct way is to locate studs and fix the brackets to the studs. However heavy duty fixings for plasterboard do exist.
    I wouldn't trust any fixing in to plasterboard to take the weight of a radiator. The brackets need to be fixed to a solid bit of timber - If that means ripping a chunk of plasterboard off the wall, then that needs to be done. 36Kg is a lot of weight, and don't forget the additional 7Kg of water when it is filled.

    Sided note - I looked at the exact same radiator to go in my dining room. Unfortunately, Screwfix do not offer free delivery on that particular one due to the weight. Went to City Plumbing for a Stelrad Halcyon for an extra £8 and free delivery. Worth it in my opinion.

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Typhoon2000
    Typhoon2000 Posts: 1,169 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Do you mean your existing column radiator does not get as hot to touch as your other radiators, or do you mean it does not have enough surface area to radiate as much heat you want? If it the former you may find that replacing it may not help as much as you expect if the reason the radiator is not getting hot is due some other issue like the pump not being as powerful.
  • pieroabcd
    pieroabcd Posts: 674 Forumite
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    FreeBear said:
    grumbler said: If it's a stud wall, the correct way is to locate studs and fix the brackets to the studs. However heavy duty fixings for plasterboard do exist.
    I wouldn't trust any fixing in to plasterboard to take the weight of a radiator. The brackets need to be fixed to a solid bit of timber - If that means ripping a chunk of plasterboard off the wall, then that needs to be done. 36Kg is a lot of weight, and don't forget the additional 7Kg of water when it is filled.

    Sided note - I looked at the exact same radiator to go in my dining room. Unfortunately, Screwfix do not offer free delivery on that particular one due to the weight. Went to City Plumbing for a Stelrad Halcyon for an extra £8 and free delivery. Worth it in my opinion.

    Thanks.
    Not exactly nice looking in my opinion, but it's really mighty.
  • pieroabcd
    pieroabcd Posts: 674 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Do you mean your existing column radiator does not get as hot to touch as your other radiators, or do you mean it does not have enough surface area to radiate as much heat you want? If it the former you may find that replacing it may not help as much as you expect if the reason the radiator is not getting hot is due some other issue like the pump not being as powerful.
    It doesn't get as hot to the touch.
    I think that it doesn't have the same amount of hot water circulating inside, hence (maybe) the lower BTU.
    Even when I closed the flow valves of all other radiators in the house I didn't feel the surface as hot as on the T22.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,014 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    pieroabcd said:
    Do you mean your existing column radiator does not get as hot to touch as your other radiators, or do you mean it does not have enough surface area to radiate as much heat you want? If it the former you may find that replacing it may not help as much as you expect if the reason the radiator is not getting hot is due some other issue like the pump not being as powerful.
    It doesn't get as hot to the touch.
    I think that it doesn't have the same amount of hot water circulating inside, hence (maybe) the lower BTU.
    Even when I closed the flow valves of all other radiators in the house I didn't feel the surface as hot as on the T22.
    Bleed all the radiators, grab a couple of cheap thermometer modules, and go round balancing all the radiators. If one is not getting as hot as the others, that suggests a balance problem, or an issue with the plumbing.
    Sis has a radiator in her granny annex that suffers from the same problem - The builders had extended some 15mm pipes from  radiator some 8m away to feed the new one. The length of the pipes is restricting the water flow and is the last radiator in the system (daft really, as the boiler is just the other side of the wall...).

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Typhoon2000
    Typhoon2000 Posts: 1,169 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Lower BTU is because it has a smaller surface area. Radiators should reach the same temperature regardless of size. It it’s not getting hot to touch there is a problem other than the style/ design/ size of the radiator.
  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 5 January 2024 at 10:18PM
    pieroabcd said:
    Do you mean your existing column radiator does not get as hot to touch as your other radiators, or do you mean it does not have enough surface area to radiate as much heat you want? If it the former you may find that replacing it may not help as much as you expect if the reason the radiator is not getting hot is due some other issue like the pump not being as powerful.
    It doesn't get as hot to the touch.
    I think that it doesn't have the same amount of hot water circulating inside, hence (maybe) the lower BTU.
    Even when I closed the flow valves of all other radiators in the house I didn't feel the surface as hot as on the T22.
    The flow depends on the plumbing and the radiator valves (lockshield, TVR), not on the radiator. If water is hot (touch the inlet pipe), but the radiator isn't, this can mean only that it's good and radiates/dissipates heat very well.

  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    As Typhoon and others say - the first thing is to check why this rad isn't getting as hot - it should be.
    Photo of the fitted valves, please? What's the temp of that rad at different heights and positions?

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