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4% Drawdown If Preservation Of The Capital Is Not A Concern ?
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MetaPhysical said:This is a calculator I have done to calculate over 25 years with a very simplistic mechanism assuming the withdrawal rate remains static at 26k. I will also do another version to factor in inflation on the yearly payment. Making small changes at the beginning results in massive changes at the end. Conversely, the pot stays quite large until the latter years when it erodes quite quickly due to the diminishing capital.
Initial capital sum 500000 Pot size Withdrawal amount 26000 Withdrawal Starting SUM ('000's) Leaves Growth Result after year YEAR 1 500000 474000 0.04 492960 YEAR 2 492960 466960 0.04 485638.4 YEAR 3 485638.4 459638.4 0.04 478023.936 YEAR 4 478023.936 452023.936 0.04 470104.8934 YEAR 5 470104.8934 444104.893 0.04 461869.0892 YEAR 6 461869.0892 435869.089 0.04 453303.8527 YEAR 7 453303.8527 427303.853 0.04 444396.0069 YEAR 8 444396.0069 418396.007 0.04 435131.8471 YEAR 9 435131.8471 409131.847 0.04 425497.121 YEAR 10 425497.121 399497.121 0.04 415477.0059 YEAR 11 415477.0059 389477.006 0.04 405056.0861 YEAR 12 405056.0861 379056.086 0.04 394218.3295 YEAR 13 394218.3295 368218.33 0.04 382947.0627 YEAR 14 382947.0627 356947.063 0.04 371224.9452 YEAR 15 371224.9452 345224.945 0.04 359033.943 YEAR 16 359033.943 333033.943 0.04 346355.3008 YEAR 17 346355.3008 320355.301 0.04 333169.5128 YEAR 18 333169.5128 307169.513 0.04 319456.2933 YEAR 19 319456.2933 293456.293 0.04 305194.545 YEAR 20 305194.545 279194.545 0.04 290362.3268 YEAR 21 290362.3268 264362.327 0.04 274936.8199 YEAR 22 274936.8199 248936.82 0.04 258894.2927 YEAR 23 258894.2927 232894.293 0.04 242210.0644 YEAR 24 242210.0644 216210.064 0.04 224858.467 YEAR 25 224858.467 198858.467 0.04 206812.8057
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Following on from the @QrizB post using cfiresim, you might also be interested in a simulator that uses historical UK returns rather than those from the US. https://www.2020financial.co.uk/pension-drawdown-calculator/ . However, only one DB/state pension can be added, so it cannot quite model your situation (i.e. with DB pension and state pension later on).
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The 4% rule doesn't apply to your whole situation. First, 4% is for US investors and it's originator added small caps in later work and now talks about his 4.5% rule. About 3.5% is right for the UK for 30 years, taking uncapped inflation increases every year. It's valid for mixtures where equities are at least 50% and better 60% of the investments.
You do not require 4% plus inflation for life. Instead you require a bridging high drawing rate that then transitions to for life once all of your income is in payment. For your age and this situation it's adequate to deduct all of the years of bridging withdrawing from your initial capital then use 3.5% or more correctly 3.2% of so for a 40 year plan that includes this bit in the bridging years too.
Adequate in part because you've written about ample safety margin from other income later on so sequence of return risk in the early years doesn't matter so much.
Because this is income you'll be relying on you might consider 50% or more of the year ahead drawing in cash savings, up to as much as two years. Replenish regularly unless markets happen to drop. If equities drop you can replenish from bonds only for a while.
You're also allowed to recalculate the safe withdrawal rate whenever you like. Use that to adjust for sustained market changes, up or down, but perhaps no more frequently than every five years to reduce income volatility.
You might also consider the Guyton-Klinger rules that bump up initial income for the UK to around 5% but sometimes skip annual inflation increases or rarely add an extra cut. Boosts if markets do well, too. It's more efficient at letting you spend more of your money before you die, unlike 4% rules which in the US ends with higher nominal (no inflation adjustment) capital at death in 98% of historic cases.
Also remember that the true SWR is the highest in the worst historic sequence. You can anticipate doing better. This and the inflation increases matter if you're comparing to annuity rates.
Finally, work has been done on increasing beyond the SWR based on your guaranteed income and income flexibility and willingness to take cuts if markets happen to do badly during your sequence. You have high guaranteed income even during the bridging.2 -
MetaPhysical said:Hi Smudge,
I am a [youthful 🤣] 56 into the gym, biking and travel (cruises especially). Yes, when I remarry it will all continue as is. I have had a very hard time this last ten years with an extremely demanding daughter who lost her mum that has exhausted me. I am coming out of that now as she gets older. I am remarrying in another year or so. That's the time to finish work. I am also in a demanding technical sales job that is forever changing and evolving and I am finding it difficult to keep pace as I get older and have other, personal life priorities. Hence me getting my financial situation on a trajectory.After working so hard to grow your assets, how do you feel you’ll mentally adjust to spending and not saving?I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the Pension, Debt Free Wanabee, and Over 50 Money Saving boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the Report button, or by e-mailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com. All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.0 -
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For the bridge period consider an index linked bond ladder to remove inflation and volatility risk.I think....0
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MetaPhysical said:Updated Excel with randomised inflation and growth numbers across 30+ years. Have a play here:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AmKMkhwWN6vZlsRZmz89tjjUIE6S0g?e=lqApc0
However, in your model spreadsheet, the randomised growth assumptions are all positive......no negative return years in any of the coming 35 years is, I'd suggest, a little unrealistic. Also, if your plan is to split off sufficient capital at the start, in order to finance a 9 year bridge pension until your SP kicks in, then you won't be starting with 500k.......it'd more likely be iro £400k.Try plugging in some real return (and possibly inflation) numbers.......a bad year to start retirement was in 2000 (not the worst though), so try plugging in the return numbers from the last 23 years and see what it looks like then.Some quick figures, based on returns from 2000 would suggest £24000 from your DB pensions, £11500 from an SP bridge/SP (bridge for 9 years then SP itself) and £13600 from your remaining pot.......for a total starting income of around £49100 before tax.......around £43000 net (assuming 25% of both the bridge and the drawdown are tax free......the SP wouldn't be when it kicks in though)0 -
Ivkoto said:
The factor investing video he points to at the end of the video spends a lot of time suggesting that factor investing carries some significant risks of long periods of under performance and is probably not suitable for most people.
It's quite a confusing set of messages and for the first time I have watched one of his videos where I sense he may be running out of content with out recycling old themes and is making videos to keep his YouTube click rate up. Something I have noticed with several financial YouTubers recently.
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One warning…
Do not take the word “Safe” in SWR too seriously. The calculations are based on a single set of data. Current calculated values such as a 95% success rate are based on what happened during 2 relatively short historic periods, a few years during the Great Crash and the other in the early 1970s when low market returns coincided with high inflation. If 1 or 3 such events had taken place in the past 100 years or the two had taken place much less than 40 years apart the SWRs would be rather different.
It would be interesting to see an SWR simulation that started just before 2001 but sadly it is too early for that.
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One issue with the SWR approach for us in the UK is getting it to fit with an early retirement before state pensions and then the inclusion of state pensions down the track.
For example, I plan to retire at age 57, 10 years before SP kicks in. I have calculated our spending requirements for basic living with around 30% of that being discretionary "pocket money" and the rest to cover all foreseeable day to day annual expenses. I will have a £6K DB pension plus will need to draw £30.5K (before tax) using FAD/UFPLS taking 25% of each withdrawal as tax free. So, £36K before tax giving around £33K a year after tax. This matches our current lifestyle while I am working.
My wife's SP kicks in 3 years after mine and we have full SP forecasts so that will be around £20K in today's money once both are paying out.
So, the drawdown from DC/SIPP/ISA can drop down significantly once the SPs get going. This means my drawdown requirements are front end loaded and will be relied upon heavily for the first 10 years.
Throw that into a software model using Timelineapp retirement planning software or FiCalc and back testing against historical market data using Guytons guardrails gives a 98% change of success. This also includes some lumps of spending for car replacement, home improvements etc, that we will want to do but timing can be varied as none are particularly time critical.
All well and good, but the reality is that, if following the plan to the letter, by the time the state pensions commence we will have either just about survived a poor period of market returns by letting the guardrails trim the spending, which could see spending need to be cut quite heavily if a prolonged period of poor returns was encountered at the start of retirement...living quite a miserable first 10 years of retirement.
Or...see us build up a significant excess by the time SPs commence if there was a prolonged bull market during the first 10 years but not dare spend into that excess just in case.
The median scenario sees us keeping our starting capital fairly intact then build an excess after the SPs commence.
There is a wide range of possible outcomes as you can see below.
We all have to go into the unknown of retirement with a plan of some sort but all plans may need to be adjusted on first contact with the enemy (erratic market returns, varying inflation, varying interest rates, accidents, illness etc). Or, throw in the towel and take an annuity, or partial annuity, which is basically letting an institution take on the market risks for you which you will ultimately pay them for doing.
So, I like the idea of re-evaluating annually as I have seen suggested in one of the threads, Year 1's plan is for a 40 year retirement, Year 2 is for a 39 year retirement etc. Update and adjust as you go.
There's always the options of taking some part time work or equity release some house value in a real emergency.
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