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Upgrading to a TADO wireless thermostat

ferry
Posts: 2,012 Forumite


My boiler us an Ideal Logic c33 combi.
I have aquired a TADO V3+ wireless thermostat which should be an upgrade to my fitted Danfoss basic one.
Do I employ the services of a Gas Safe engineer to fully fit it or an electrician?
I am assuming that I cant use the existing wiring to the boiler?
Thanks
I have aquired a TADO V3+ wireless thermostat which should be an upgrade to my fitted Danfoss basic one.
Do I employ the services of a Gas Safe engineer to fully fit it or an electrician?
I am assuming that I cant use the existing wiring to the boiler?
Thanks
:j
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Comments
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Hi Ferry.A photo of your current room 'stat, please? And you'd want the Tado in the same location?Ah, just checked out MartintU's link - is yours that model, Ferry? In which case the receiver can very likely go where your current 'stat is, and the Tado controller wherever. That would be easiest, but you should also be able to fit the receiver closer to the boiler, but that's a tad more involved - but still hopefully doesn't require a GasSafe.But, we need the info above.Photo of the current wall 'stat.Photo of the boiler, showing the cables going to it.Do you have any 'zone' valves - motorised valves - fitted?0
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Depends on how your existing thermostat is wired up. The Ideal Logic is (depending on age) OpenTherm compatible, so if you wish to use this, the front panel will need to be popped off - With most boilers, removing the front panel should be done by a Gas Safe engineer. Connecting the thermostat is then a trivial exercise that may require the installation of a jumper.Should you want the simplest route, and your current thermostat/timer is old school "switched live", you can avoid having to open up the boiler and just use the existing wiring - Again, not difficult, but the boiler must be isolated as there are live wires behind the thermostat back plate. If you no nothing about wiring and the dangers of electricity, get an electrician in (some Gas Safe engineers will do wiring, but not all of them).
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Thanks guys I will get pics up when I get home but if I can use the current wiring from the boiler that would make like a whole lot easier( and cheaper) . Its the opentherm bit that worries me too so I think I will end up having it installed.:j0
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Martin_the_Unjust said:That video - at 44-odd seconds - shows the Tado receiver, which seemingly requires a 240V supply, being installed without. I guess it's a simplified video, but still.And where are the Opentherm connections?Anyway, Ferry, it should be relatively straight forward to fit the Tado to your existing 'Stat wiring, and at your existing 'stat location, and it will work the same as your current 'stat, but with all the benefits of being 'Smart', and almost certainly with more accurate temp control. Very worthwhile.And almost certainly DIYable. We'll guide you - as long as you are half-competent.If your boiler is Opentherm compatible, and you wish to use this feature, then more involved wiring will be required direct to the boiler, so the receiver would ideally need mounting nearby.But you can have the Smart benefits without Opentherm. Then perhaps go 'Opentherm' when you replace your boiler.0
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ThisIsWeird said: And where are the Opentherm connections?If your boiler is Opentherm compatible, and you wish to use this feature, then more involved wiring will be required direct to the boiler, so the receiver would ideally need mounting nearby.According to the installation manual I looked at earlier, the OpenTherm connection is on the left hand side of the electronics box inside the boiler - The 240V connections are all on the right. Getting to either requires the removal of the main (sealed) cover.As for the openTherm wiring - The specification states that maximum cable length is 50m, so the receiver doesn't have to be mounted adjacent to the boiler. That said, keeping the cable as short as reasonably practical is wise, and keep it as far away from 240V mains cable as possible.Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
Thanks again for all the help. I will post some pics of the current set up ans appreciate your thoughts on if you feel its doable. I did notice there is a power lead also going into the receiver and not sure if this complicates matters or is 'normal':j0
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Hi again guys, back to bore you a bit more today with some pics of my set up.
I cannot get into the boiler get a pic of the wiring but any advice on this is appreciated. Basically one wire length into the boiler and one length into the power supply.:j0 -
The RX1 receiver uses a simple relay to turn the boiler on & off when the thermostat calls for heat. Very simple wiring, all be it at mains potential - https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/27119/AN000086407554en-010201.pdfTado instructions - https://cdn.brandfolder.io/607DGEMS/as/j4mjvsgpjtghjkm57fkx5q7h/104204-DIGITAL-WRB01IB01-INSTALLER_MANUAL-TA-EN-00-V3.pdfA link might need to be installed between COM and L(ive) depending on how the current RX1 is wired up. Do not do this yourself unless you have a multimeter and feel confident in what you are doing.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.2 -
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