Loft & Loft Hatch insulation help

DIYhelp76

Hi,

We have a mid-terraced 1900s brick house.

We'd like to try to improve draughts and heat retention if we can.

There is joist insulation (that woolly stuff) (not sure about depth, it's old, so it might be depth of this could be improved - although loft is now part boarded, so access not easy.

We wonder if we could add something to rafters.  Will attach photo of rafters.  

The spray foam we've read is not a good idea.  Kingspan stuff is quite pricey. We are wondering about that silver foiled bubble wrap stuff which should be easy for us to staple to the rafters.

Would this be a good/safe option for the type of house?

Also, there is a pull down wooden door loft hatch.  This has gaps around all its edges and lets in draughts.  The ladder is not attached to the door but is pushed up into the void and then the loft hatch hinges up to close.

We thought of getting a bit of Kingspan (or similar) to stick to inside (loft side) of this hatch. And then try to rig up some sealant around its edges.  Pls does anyone have any other tips/advice for achieving this?

Many thx. 

DIYhelp76

Photo showing rafters - also one area of that black felt stuff is dipping slightly.  Can we tape that up with gaffer tape or similar? 

Mutton_Geoff

You won't improve the insulating properties by applying insulation to the rafters since your energy will still be coming through the ceiling and trying to heat the loft which should be ventilated.

Add extra layers of loft insulation over the top of what you have, glue Celotex or equivalent to the back of the loft door, or cheaper still, a thick pad of loft insulation inside a double bin liner stapled to the back of the door. Use draught excluder strip around the edge of the door which should be sitting on thin beading all around the edge of the hatch looking up from inside your house.

Nebbit

If the tiles/slates are in good condition, gaps in the roofing felt should not be a cause for concern. Some roofs have no felt at all

FreeBear

DIYhelp76 said: The spray foam we've read is not a good idea.  Kingspan stuff is quite pricey. We are wondering about that silver foiled bubble wrap stuff which should be easy for us to staple to the rafters.

Also, there is a pull down wooden door loft hatch.  This has gaps around all its edges and lets in draughts.  The ladder is not attached to the door but is pushed up into the void and then the loft hatch hinges up to close.

Don't waste money on the multifoil (bubble wrap stuff). Stapling it to the rafters will compromise ventilation in the loft and will do little to conserve warmth in the house. You are better off topping up the existing insulation to around 300mm. If you can't (or don't want to) lift the boards, put the insulation down in the rest of the loft.

As for the hatch - I had a lift up board affair that was uninsulated and draughty. Replaced it with a Manthorpe GL260, and instantly improved the comfort level in that room (the bathroom). Had to get creative cutting strips of wood to fix the hatch frame to as the original hole was some 40mm larger than the hatch. Less hassle than enlarging the opening for the GL250 drop down hatch.

the_lunatic_is_in_my_head

Personally prefer a slim profit metal hatch than the ugly plastic ones

https://www.jupiterblue.co.uk/loft-hatches-c2/standard-range-c9/air-tested-loft-hatch-560-x-640mm-hinged-p221

Not too expensive unless you need a custom size.