Recommend me a Hybrid Bike

timelessmelody

I've not owned a bike since I was a teenager so looking for any advice on purchasing a hybrid. Initially I'll just be going for casual rides with my young son who's just got his first pedal bike, but intend to use the bike more longer term, possibly even for commuting to work, so I'm happy to spend a bit of money. Terrain would just be roads, pavements, gravel paths, etc. so I think a hybrid fits the bill. I'll be purchasing via a Cycle to Work Scheme and happy to budget up to £700 for a bike.....any recommendations? 

thelawnet

your height?

'hybrid' means anything with flat bars that's short of a mountain bike,and can be:

* something with front suspension - see e.g. https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/cobalt-1-hybrid-bike-939174
* something without front suspension and fairly fat tyres - see e.g. https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/lithium-1-hybrid-bike-939171
* something without front suspension and fairly skinny tyres  https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/neon-1-hybrid-bike-934354

Also you need to pay attention to mudguard eyelets (necessary) and pannier fixings if you want to cycle to work.

For spec you want to look at brakes, gearing, etc. 

I would avoid front suspension, and if you are going more towards gravel and road and less towards anything truly offroad, then thinner tyres are nice as well.

Something like the Neon 1 you can see has a 50/34 crankset and 9 gears at the back, likely to be 11-32, although it doesn't say.

Something like this has a carbon fork and only one gear at the front 44t, https://www.halfords.com/bikes/hybrid-bikes/boardman-hyb-8.8-womens-hybrid-bike-2021---s-m-l-frames-390326.html and 11-46 at the back, spread over 10 gears, which is fine. Personally I prefer two at the front, but 11-46 is sufficient range to go fast and slow. The carbon fork does mean it's slightly smoother over bumps than the Neon bikes.

Herzlos

You'll pay a lot less to buy the bike at the end if you keep the entire spend under £500, so I'd aim for there.

I like the Decathlon stuff, so the Riverside 700: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/hybrid-bike-riverside-700-grey-sea/_/R-p-341646?mc=8751944
Gives you a relatively light bike, decent gear range and tyres, and a bit of suspension for rougher roads.

There's also a cheaper one that's heavier with 1 less gear: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/lightweight-9-speed-single-chainring-hybrid-bike/_/R-p-300777?mc=8577925&c=blue

The extra money saved could then go towards cycle clothing, locks, etc.

DigSunPap

I don't personally own one myself but my dad has one and is always raving about it. Pretty sure this is the one that he has got.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/8-speed-puncture-resistant-3-mode-electric-hybrid-bike/_/R-p-169143?mc=8608513&c=grey

timelessmelody

thelawnet said:

your height?

'hybrid' means anything with flat bars that's short of a mountain bike,and can be:

* something with front suspension - see e.g. https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/cobalt-1-hybrid-bike-939174
* something without front suspension and fairly fat tyres - see e.g. https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/lithium-1-hybrid-bike-939171
* something without front suspension and fairly skinny tyres  https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/neon-1-hybrid-bike-934354

Also you need to pay attention to mudguard eyelets (necessary) and pannier fixings if you want to cycle to work.

For spec you want to look at brakes, gearing, etc. 

I would avoid front suspension, and if you are going more towards gravel and road and less towards anything truly offroad, then thinner tyres are nice as well.

Something like the Neon 1 you can see has a 50/34 crankset and 9 gears at the back, likely to be 11-32, although it doesn't say.

Something like this has a carbon fork and only one gear at the front 44t, https://www.halfords.com/bikes/hybrid-bikes/boardman-hyb-8.8-womens-hybrid-bike-2021---s-m-l-frames-390326.html and 11-46 at the back, spread over 10 gears, which is fine. Personally I prefer two at the front, but 11-46 is sufficient range to go fast and slow. The carbon fork does mean it's slightly smoother over bumps than the Neon bikes.

Thanks for this overview, very helpful. 

I'm 6' 3" so will be looking at XL models. Will take a look at options.

timelessmelody

Herzlos said:

You'll pay a lot less to buy the bike at the end if you keep the entire spend under £500, so I'd aim for there.

I like the Decathlon stuff, so the Riverside 700: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/hybrid-bike-riverside-700-grey-sea/_/R-p-341646?mc=8751944
Gives you a relatively light bike, decent gear range and tyres, and a bit of suspension for rougher roads.

There's also a cheaper one that's heavier with 1 less gear: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/lightweight-9-speed-single-chainring-hybrid-bike/_/R-p-300777?mc=8577925&c=blue

The extra money saved could then go towards cycle clothing, locks, etc.

When you say I'll pay a lot less if it's under £500 is that because there's some sort of tiered system with Cycle to Work??

Herzlos

timelessmelody said:

Herzlos said:

You'll pay a lot less to buy the bike at the end if you keep the entire spend under £500, so I'd aim for there.

I like the Decathlon stuff, so the Riverside 700: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/hybrid-bike-riverside-700-grey-sea/_/R-p-341646?mc=8751944
Gives you a relatively light bike, decent gear range and tyres, and a bit of suspension for rougher roads.

There's also a cheaper one that's heavier with 1 less gear: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/lightweight-9-speed-single-chainring-hybrid-bike/_/R-p-300777?mc=8577925&c=blue

The extra money saved could then go towards cycle clothing, locks, etc.

When you say I'll pay a lot less if it's under £500 is that because there's some sort of tiered system with Cycle to Work??

Basically, yes. The way it works is you lease the bike* for 1 year at the retail price of the bike taken out before tax. You can then buy the bike from them after 1 or 3 years.

After 3 years if you buy the bike from them, it'll cost you 3% on bikes under £500, or 7% on bikes over. So a £499 bike will cost you £14.97, but a £501 bike will cost you £35.

No-one uses the 1 year option because it's 18 and 25% respectively, and the only benefit is that you technically own the bike earlier

https://help.cyclescheme.co.uk/article/42-what-is-an-ownership-fee

*By bike I mean the whole package, you can get a bike + accessories + clothing. It's definitely worth getting a helmet, toolkit and a rain jacket if you're commuting to work. So if it's more of a toe dipping venture I'd aim to spend maybe £300 on the bike and £200 on accessories since you'll be able to keep the accessories if you upgrade the bike later.

thelawnet

Herzlos said:

timelessmelody said:

Herzlos said:

You'll pay a lot less to buy the bike at the end if you keep the entire spend under £500, so I'd aim for there.

I like the Decathlon stuff, so the Riverside 700: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/hybrid-bike-riverside-700-grey-sea/_/R-p-341646?mc=8751944
Gives you a relatively light bike, decent gear range and tyres, and a bit of suspension for rougher roads.

There's also a cheaper one that's heavier with 1 less gear: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/lightweight-9-speed-single-chainring-hybrid-bike/_/R-p-300777?mc=8577925&c=blue

The extra money saved could then go towards cycle clothing, locks, etc.

When you say I'll pay a lot less if it's under £500 is that because there's some sort of tiered system with Cycle to Work??

Basically, yes. The way it works is you lease the bike* for 1 year at the retail price of the bike taken out before tax. You can then buy the bike from them after 1 or 3 years.

After 3 years if you buy the bike from them, it'll cost you 3% on bikes under £500, or 7% on bikes over. So a £499 bike will cost you £14.97, but a £501 bike will cost you £35.

No-one uses the 1 year option because it's 18 and 25% respectively, and the only benefit is that you technically own the bike earlier

https://help.cyclescheme.co.uk/article/42-what-is-an-ownership-fee

*By bike I mean the whole package, you can get a bike + accessories + clothing. It's definitely worth getting a helmet, toolkit and a rain jacket if you're commuting to work. So if it's more of a toe dipping venture I'd aim to spend maybe £300 on the bike and £200 on accessories since you'll be able to keep the accessories if you upgrade the bike later.

This is not entirely accurate. 
The fee will depend on the provider. Cyclescheme is just one provider. There are others:
Bike2Work, NHS cycle scheme, Cycle Plus, Salary Plus, Salary Extras, Halfords Cycle2Work, Enjoy Benefits Cyclescheme, C2W Support, Vivup.

Halfords Cycle2Work work with other shops, not only Halfords.

For Halfords I believe there is no fee/BIK - the bike is written off at 5 years of age with nothing to pay. Other providers will have their own rules.

For Cyclescheme they charge an upfront deposit of 3%/7%, which they swallow as profit when you own the bike later. This 3%/7% is based on the value of the bike ONLY, and BEFORE VAT.

Therefore in the case where you spent £599.99 on a bike and £99.99 on a helmet, that £599.99 is £499.99 before VAT, and you would pay 3% of the £599.99, and nothing on the helmet as their fee That means your cost would be £18.

If your bike cost £600 or more, then you would be hit by the 7% charge, and therefore £42 or more. The accessories are not taxed as BIK when they are transferred to you at nil value, you only are deemed to have acquired a BIK on the value of the used bike.

Cyclescheme's fee is based both on their profit motive and on satisfying HMRC. Other  providers satisfy HMRC without charging the consumer anything.

You should check in each case the ownership fee.

Generally I would probably avoid £300 bikes these days, but it depends on the specific components. If the bike has 7 speeds at the back, or 'Shimano Tourney' it's pretty cheap and nasty, and you might well find these on £300 bikes. Getting 8 speeds or more will give you a cassette rather than a freewheel which is better, and the components are better all likely to be better all round. 

This is a typical nasty 300 quid bike https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/lithium-1-hybrid-bike-939171

400 is much better in terms of shifters, cassette, brakes https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/pinnacle/lithium-3-hybrid-bike-939173 but you do need to read the spec sheet....

MacPingu1986

I'm a big fan of the boardman hybrids:

https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/categories/hybrid/

(look at the HYB models, you don't need anything with front suspension for what you'll be doing).

I have an HYB8.8 myself and rate it very highly, the geometry has you leaning a little further forward than typical hybrids - that's what I like but purely personal preference.

Ultimately - most hybrids from the main brands out there are all good - I'd pop along to a bike shop or a halfords with a decent range, have a walk around, see what you like, check a few online reviews just to make sure and you can't go far wrong. 

Would 100% recommend giving cycling to work a try - Keeps you fit, not bound by public transport timetables, bypass traffic queues, saves money, easiest way to integrate exercise into your day. Showers at work help but plenty of tips out there. Panniers can be useful but I just use a backpack.

MilesT6060842

Regardless of what bike you buy, get good locks and chains.  usual rule of thumb is spend at least 10% of bike cost on security, enough to cover frame, both wheels, a post/hanger, and maybe even the saddle (if it has a place to thread a chain/cable).  Consider "at home" security as well (another 10%), anchoring down to hardpoints even inside a garage or shed, or on a balcony.

Worth checking your choice of locks on Youtube, especially "lockpickinglawyer", many are truly atrocious expensive rubbish that are easily bypassed/cut/opened by theives.

bouicca21

Get friendly with your local independent bike shop, they will give advice and let you try bikes out. If cycle to work covers it, a secondhand bike might be a good way to go. Think about weight - some cheaper bikes are heavy. If you haven’t cycled for a long time check out bikeability courses from your local council, ditto bike maintenance courses plus whereabouts of Dr Bike sessions.  

You will need a good lock, especially if the bike is going to be left in the open, and of course you will need a helmet - as will your son.  Cycling kit can be expensive but you can sometimes get adequate basics from the likes of Aldi.  You might want to invest in thermals for winter. When you get the bike get it on bike register (local police run bike marking events for free) and join one of the cycling organisations like British Cycling, Cycling Uk or in London, the London Cycling Campaign, all of which bundle in insurance for accidents and liability as well as lobbying for cyclists and cycling. 

Might also be worth signing up to the Let’s Ride site and finding out about organised leisure rides in your area.  Meeting other cyclists will get access to a fund of knowledge and cycling with them is good for confidence building.  A cycling club might be good, though in my experience the testosterone levels tend to be rather too high.