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Chasing out cabling

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Hello all,

In an attempt to save money when having my house rewired I intend to chase out for the cables and wall sockets.

Currently the house has no electric other than what has been run in plastic trunking onto the surface of the walls.

(Baring in mind that the walls will all need to be replastered)

How deep do I need to chase out for the wall (meaning the brick as there will be plaster applied ontop of that) for the socket boxes?

and how deep for the cables?

thanks,

Evilgoose

Comments

  • mx-3
    mx-3 Posts: 195 Forumite
    You really need the socket/switch boxes and capping ........just chop in till the box fits & its level.You do not need to chop in to the brickwork for the cables( unless its very thin plaster.
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    you dont need to chase out the bricks. after the sparks has done the wiring just use protective channelling, either plastic or galv steel.
    the new plaster will then hide the channelling.

    its dirt cheap at wickes.
    Get some gorm.
  • Merry Xmas and thanks for your replies.

    I'm looking at mk sockets.

    I understand from what you are saying that there is no need to chase out (cut into) the brick for the cable. But would I need to for the back box?

    How deep is new plaster normally? With sockets fitted to be fitted flush, i've seen 16mm back boxes which I would assume would be the rough depth for the plaster - but this doesnt sound that deep for the box to be wired.

    The next size up is a bout 25mm then it jumps to around 40 which would seem to be very deep for plaster finish.
    So would you say for the 25 or 40mm cut into the brick for 9mm or 3cm respectivily to then allow for the 16mm plaster and a flush finish?

    A confused evilgoose!
  • pdrskint
    pdrskint Posts: 100 Forumite
    greetings

    are you having it plastered or drylined which is the norm these days,
    16m back boxes for light switches but not dimmers, 25m for sockets, 40m for cooker point or showers,
    plaster generally 20mil same for dry lining so allow this when chiseling sockets.
    your electricion should advise,
  • pdrskint wrote: »
    greetings

    are you having it plastered or drylined which is the norm these days,
    16m back boxes for light switches but not dimmers, 25m for sockets, 40m for cooker point or showers,
    plaster generally 20mil same for dry lining so allow this when chiseling sockets.
    your electricion should advise,


    thanks for clearing that up for me. I'm having it plastered.
    So going on your figures - I need to chissel out 5mm into the brick.
    Thanks.
  • HugoSP
    HugoSP Posts: 2,467 Forumite
    I'm a little at odds here with some of what has been posted.

    Just to advise -

    If the OP is having the walls skimmed then the depths that have been mentioned apply in full.

    If the OP is having the plaster hacked off then re rendered then skimmed, then he can take off the depth of the render/plaster.

    If the OP is going for dry lining then, depending on the timbers/depth that are used he may not have to do any channelling out at all.

    As far as the cabling is concerned I would aim to get the plasterer's trunking with the cable inside completely recessed into the channel cut into the brickwork. then it can be held into the brickwork before the plasterers come.
    Behind every great man is a good woman
    Beside this ordinary man is a great woman
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