Dry lining advice

Swasterix
Forumite Posts: 305
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Hoping there may be a plasterer out there who can offer me some advice…
We’re part way through an extension and are at the point where we will be boarding walls and ceilings. In an effort to save a bit of cash, I intent to use tapered edge plasterboard and tape and join. I have done this before, so am happy with the method generally. There is something that had me stumped though…
In the kitchen, we have a couple of pillars which we need to go around. They’re around 300mm wide. Obviously we will only be able to get a tapered edge on one side of the pillar which we can put a corner bead on and fill. What is the best method (if any) to get a good finish on the other corner with the cut edge?
We’re part way through an extension and are at the point where we will be boarding walls and ceilings. In an effort to save a bit of cash, I intent to use tapered edge plasterboard and tape and join. I have done this before, so am happy with the method generally. There is something that had me stumped though…
In the kitchen, we have a couple of pillars which we need to go around. They’re around 300mm wide. Obviously we will only be able to get a tapered edge on one side of the pillar which we can put a corner bead on and fill. What is the best method (if any) to get a good finish on the other corner with the cut edge?
Thanks in advance for any help!
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Comments
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(not a plasterer) I wouldn't put a taper edge on a corner. 2mm plastic corner beads, and then a skim of Multifinish over the top. In a room that might suffer from occasional condensation, plastic corner beads won't rust like galvanised would, and they are a lot cheaper than stainless steel.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
FreeBear said:(not a plasterer) I wouldn't put a taper edge on a corner. 2mm plastic corner beads, and then a skim of Multifinish over the top. In a room that might suffer from occasional condensation, plastic corner beads won't rust like galvanised would, and they are a lot cheaper than stainless steel.0
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What filling blades/trowels/knives will you be using to fill and smooth the tapered edges? At only 300mm wide, won't one of these also bridge the space between the two edge beads, making this as easy a skimming job as could be?
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ThisIsWeird said:What filling blades/trowels/knives will you be using to fill and smooth the tapered edges? At only 300mm wide, won't one of these also bridge the space between the two edge beads, making this as easy a skimming job as could be?1
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ThisIsWeird said:What filling blades/trowels/knives will you be using to fill and smooth the tapered edges? At only 300mm wide, won't one of these also bridge the space between the two edge beads, making this as easy a skimming job as could be?
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
Yep- I’m very much in the school of buy cheap, buy twice.Thanks again both, appreciate the advice.1
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Use a corner tape like this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-reinforced-corner-jointing-tape-white-30m-x-50mm/981cf - read the reviews
It's much thinner than a bead so you'll need less filler0 -
Swasterix said:Yep- I’m very much in the school of buy cheap, buy twice.Thanks again both, appreciate the advice.My link was just an example, but perfectly adequate if this extension is a one-of job for you.It's why gawd invented 180 grit paper. :-)0
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