Consumer Unit Upgrade

I had electricians over recently, to replace broken extractor fans in the bathrooms, and also to fit some new IP rated downlighters. They refused to install the downlighters, as they were mains voltage (GU10 bulbs), and they said our consumer unit didn't have sufficient protection for the circuit.

They recommended upgrading the consumer unit to an up-to-date one, with RCBOs on all circuits and a surge protection device. They've given me an estimate of £790, plus additional £110 for each RCBO I upgrade with an AFDD.

From paperwork I found after moving in, it looks like the house had a rewire in 2005, so I assume the consumer unit was changed then as well. It doesn't seem that old to me, but maybe there's something I haven't considered?

Picture of existing consumer unit:


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Comments

  • Auti
    Auti Posts: 507 Forumite
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    Hello. I asked for wall lights and sockets to be isolated for plasterers and had same issue. Also had to increase earthing to gas meter as was only to water. Now upgraded to current electricity regulations but was an expense I did not need. They did not change circuit board just upgraded the individual circuit breakers required. Came in at around £600 (well worth it in my opinion)
  • Ganga
    Ganga Posts: 4,253 Forumite
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    Just had our old circuit board ( separate pull out fuse holders with fuse cartridges fitted installed in 1986 when the house was built  ) removed and an 18th edition consumer unit fitted ,all circuits tested and certificate issued ,building control notified ,cost £545.00
  • Rodders53
    Rodders53 Posts: 2,584 Forumite
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    edited 11 September 2023 at 3:08PM
    Issue will be that mains-voltage lights in certain zones within bathroom (and fan for that matter) must be RCD protected.

    12 Volt lamps and fans, even when fed from in-ceiling void mains transformers do not need RCD protection.  (Though RCD protected circuits are obviously better).

    Get different downlights. 
    (Or possibly a sparks who would be willing to modify the existing CU with a new MK RCBO for that lights circuit only?)
  • fiish
    fiish Posts: 819 Forumite
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    The existing downlights were 12V.

    On the light that I wanted replacing, the transformer was broken, so I ended up replacing the transformer myself, and I have working downlights now :)

    Question was mainly on the CU, and whether the existing board is recent enough to not warrant replacing yet.
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,869 Forumite
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    Your problem is that if you want mains lights in a bathroom, then they should be protected by an RCD.  But your board only has one RCD, and it doesn't cover any of the lighting circuits.

    The "Wiring Regulations" are constantly moving on.  The latest version is 2018 + two amendments.  So 2005 is now two editions out of date.  If you hadn't wanted any work done, then you wouldn't have had to do anything.  But electricians are always supposed to work to the latest regulations whenever they change anything.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
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    edited 11 September 2023 at 10:27PM
    fiish said:


    They recommended upgrading the consumer unit to an up-to-date one, with RCBOs on all circuits and a surge protection device. They've given me an estimate of £790, plus additional £110 for each RCBO I upgrade with an AFDD.
    Well, to have an MCB replaced with RCBO you don't need to upgrade the CU. I think, it's a simple job and RCBO prices start from about a tenner. I don't know if they must have AFDD. If  it's really needed then, most likely, only for some sockets, not for a lighting circuit.
    SPDs aren't compulsory AFAIK.

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,869 Forumite
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    grumbler said:
    fiish said:


    They recommended upgrading the consumer unit to an up-to-date one, with RCBOs on all circuits and a surge protection device. They've given me an estimate of £790, plus additional £110 for each RCBO I upgrade with an AFDD.
    Well, to have an MCB replaced with RCBO you don't need to upgrade the CU. I think, it's a simple job and RCBO prices start from about a tenner. I don't know if they must have AFDD. If  it's really needed then, most likely, only for some sockets, not for a lighting circuit.


    Regulation 421.1.7 states:
    Arc Fault Detection Devices (AFDD) conforming to BS EN 62606 shall be provided for single-phase AC final circuits supplying socket outlets with a rated current not exceeding 32 A in:
    • Higher Risk Residential Buildings (HRRB)
    • House in Multiple Occupation (HMO)
    • Purpose-built student accommodation
    • Care homes
    For all other premises, AFDDs conforming to BS EN 62606 are recommended for single-phase AC final circuits supplying socket outlets not exceeding 32 A.

    HRRBs are buildings such as flats etc..
    As for replacing an MCB with an RCBO, it depends on whether a compatible MK unit is available and if there is space inside for it. The obvious choice to my mind is to fit an MCB in the vacant slot on the far right of the CU. If it is just the bathroom lights needing to be on an RCD protected circuit, it will need a new length of cable installed (may not be practical). I certainly wouldn't be spending £150 for an AFDD.


    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
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    edited 13 September 2023 at 7:54AM
    FreeBear said:
    grumbler said:
    fiish said:


    They recommended upgrading the consumer unit to an up-to-date one, with RCBOs on all circuits and a surge protection device. They've given me an estimate of £790, plus additional £110 for each RCBO I upgrade with an AFDD.
    Well, to have an MCB replaced with RCBO you don't need to upgrade the CU. I think, it's a simple job and RCBO prices start from about a tenner. I don't know if they must have AFDD. If  it's really needed then, most likely, only for some sockets, not for a lighting circuit.


    As for replacing an MCB with an RCBO, it depends on whether a compatible MK unit is available and if there is space inside for it. The obvious choice to my mind is to fit an MCB in the vacant slot on the far right of the CU. If it is just the bathroom lights needing to be on an RCD protected circuit, it will need a new length of cable installed (may not be practical). I certainly wouldn't be spending £150 for an AFDD.


    I see two spare places available, but it's the same size as an MCB and, AFAIK, doesn't need extra space. Also, these two vacant spaces can be used for adding a second RCD for protecting all 'red' MCBs without replacing any.
    Why does it have to be MK other than for aesthetic reasons?

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,869 Forumite
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    grumbler said: Why does it have to be MK other than for aesthetic reasons?
    According to the resident pedant, if you use non-approved components in a consumer unit (for example, an MK RCBO in a Hager CU), you become the manufacturer and have to test & certify the whole unit as compliant. The original CU manufacturer will not honour any warranty claim (a moot point for any unit installed more than a couple of years ago).

    But if you can find an RCBO that will fit (say Schneider), go for it. No one is going to report you - Just be careful about your selection. The dimensions on some of the MCB/RCBO modules can vary, mainly where they poke through the front casing.

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,869 Forumite
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    But be careful.  Even if you can get an off-brand RCBO to fit, you need to check that it's actually making good contact.  A lot of consumer unit nanufacturers use a comb-shaped copper bus bar to connect the lives on all the breakers.  You install the breakers, shove the teeth of the comb into all the live terminals, then do up the screws.
    With a wrong brand breaker, there's no guarantee that the live terminal is properly clamping down onto it's copper tooth on the bus bar.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
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