Ideal logic combi2 c30 help please

FreeBear

If the plumber has set hot water to 60°C, he may well have set the CH temperature quite high. If you have nice big (oversized) radiators throughout the house, it would be worth turning the flow temperature down. Get the return temperature below 50°C, and you'll get higher efficiency out of the boiler which means less money spent on gas.

The operating instructions should tell you what buttons to press to adjust the CH flow temperature. Just make a note of settings before you change them so that you can reset if a mistake is made.

mmmmikey

FreeBear said:

Coffeekup said: That being said you have a water tank so I'm unsure how your boiler heats the water. I hear water tanks need a 60° legionella burn once a week.

Whilst it is true that the Legionella bacteria dies within minutes at 60°C, it is not necessary. Heat the tank (if you have one) to 50-55°C and keep it at that temperature for a few hours will have the same effect. That said, Legionella is very rare in the UK, with just some 250 cases reported each year. Of those, half are often contracted overseas.

Have (had) an open vented HW cylinder here, and only heated the water to 52°C once a week - A major contribution to cutting gas consumption.

All of the above is a moot point for the OP as they have a combi, so no stored hot water.

Hi @FreeBear - not to doubt you in anyway at all, but do you have a reference for this in relation to killing Legionella? Or maybe you could help me with something? I'm currently trying to work out the optimum temperature for a thermal store and want to understand the legionella implications. The hot water that comes out of the taps is heated as it passes through the coil in the thermal store, so not stored anywhere itself, so in that sense I'm assuming it's like a combi boiler in terms of the safety risks at the tap/showerhead and not something to worry about? The thermal store isn't pressurised and has a small built in header tank which includes Fernox rust inhibitor. The header tank has a tight cover, but isn't completely airtight. Should I be concerned about that as a source of legionella? From an energy efficiency point of view I'd ideally heat the store to just over 50C and it maybe cools down to 43C at some points during the day. Thanks, Mike

FreeBear

mmmmikey said:

FreeBear said:

Coffeekup said: That being said you have a water tank so I'm unsure how your boiler heats the water. I hear water tanks need a 60° legionella burn once a week.

Whilst it is true that the Legionella bacteria dies within minutes at 60°C, it is not necessary. Heat the tank (if you have one) to 50-55°C and keep it at that temperature for a few hours will have the same effect. That said, Legionella is very rare in the UK, with just some 250 cases reported each year. Of those, half are often contracted overseas.

Have (had) an open vented HW cylinder here, and only heated the water to 52°C once a week - A major contribution to cutting gas consumption.

All of the above is a moot point for the OP as they have a combi, so no stored hot water.

Hi @FreeBear - not to doubt you in anyway at all, but do you have a reference for this in relation to killing Legionella? Or maybe you could help me with something? I'm currently trying to work out the optimum temperature for a thermal store and want to understand the legionella implications. The hot water that comes out of the taps is heated as it passes through the coil in the thermal store, so not stored anywhere itself, so in that sense I'm assuming it's like a combi boiler in terms of the safety risks at the tap/showerhead and not something to worry about? The thermal store isn't pressurised and has a small built in header tank which includes Fernox rust inhibitor. The header tank has a tight cover, but isn't completely airtight. Should I be concerned about that as a source of legionella? From an energy efficiency point of view I'd ideally heat the store to just over 50C and it maybe cools down to 43C at some points during the day. Thanks, Mike

From Heat Geek -

As your water is heated via a heat store, it is never kept at a temperature for long enough where bacteria can multiply (yes, there will be a small quantity when water is not flowing, perhaps 0.5l). The water coming in to the house will be treated by the water board, so there shouldn't be any significant levels of bacteria to start with. Your risk of catching Legionella is virtually zero. You have a better chance of catching exotic diseases just by going out for a walk (Lymes disease from ticks).

mmmmikey

Thanks @FreeBear - that answers my question perfectly

Little_miss_dfw

FreeBear said:

If the plumber has set hot water to 60°C, he may well have set the CH temperature quite high. If you have nice big (oversized) radiators throughout the house, it would be worth turning the flow temperature down. Get the return temperature below 50°C, and you'll get higher efficiency out of the boiler which means less money spent on gas.

The operating instructions should tell you what buttons to press to adjust the CH flow temperature. Just make a note of settings before you change them so that you can reset if a mistake is made.

Thank you. I’m unsure how to do this. Will need to hunt out the manual 

[Deleted User]

Hi,

user manual HERE.

Little_miss_dfw

frugalmacdugal said:

Hi,

user manual HERE.

Thank you but this isn’t quite my boiler. I only have 2 buttons under the screen and my screen is slightly different. 

Neither this Manual or my boiler manual show me how to check boiler return temperature 

[Deleted User]

Hi,

found a wee VIDEO helps explain how to adjust the temperature.