We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.
This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Sanding before decorating - how far do you need to go?
Comments
-
Vinyl silk emulsion paints are quite 'plasticky', and many don't sand that well - it will often tear rather than sand. Matt emulsions, on the other hand, tend to sand off to a fine powder.I guess a lower speed, less pressure, would reduce the 'melting'. Yes, it's darned annoying - I usually resort to wire-brushing the worse off. Partly works.0
-
You can get sanding pad cleaners, they are like a block made out of a rubbery material and work pretty well. I always use them on my belt sander as the belts are pretty expensive for it :ashe said:
I've ordered a tub of this so will see how I get on!FreeBear said:ashe said: the surface still has a strong orange peel feel to it which I was hoping to sand away. Is it easier to scrape some easyfill over the bumps with a trowel and then sand smooth & mist coat? Or am I going too far?I've been using Knaul Fill & Finish to patch up some walls here. Once dry, going over with a moist sponge float helps to feather in the edges and take out any small humps & hollows - A lot less mess than sanding.Wickes do a 5Kg tub for around £17, but if you shop around, a 20Kg tub shouldn't cost much more than £30.
Here is hoping! We had some minor bubbles in our bedroom, but weirdly only at the top of the walls and they weren't huge or noticeable but thin you would see them if it happened here so trying to do everything possible. We have a small part in the hall where the radiator is that we need to paint so the plumber can come and rehang the radiator (you can see between the fins so needed doing), so we'll give that a go this week and see how the paint takes to it.ThisIsWeird said:You have probably done enough work, Ashe. One way to find out...
one other query - is it a specific kind of paint that is causing this to happen, or sanding too fast? Pads don't cost the earth but it is happening quite quickly and usually I'd get a lot of life out of a pad on my orbital but it's like it's melting the paint and then it's a hugger to pick it all off
https://www.screwfix.com/p/silverline-sanding-belt-cleaning-block-75mm/127tj
1 -
Orbital sanders are likely to create more uneveness than make the wall smooth. A light sanding by hand with sandpaper is all that is needed usually. If there are lots of discolorations, then after the light sanding, I would give the wall a coat of white emulsion paint. This will cover up any discolorations and only the blemishes that need filling will be noticeable. After filling these and sanding them smooth by hand, paint with a couple of coats of your chosen colour.
1 -
I think this explains why we had some small bubbles in places in the bedroom as looked like a similar paint. I've googled it and says it's because the silk lifts away and settles as it contracts again, they were only small though and mostly high up, so could be where we missed it with the peel stop.ThisIsWeird said:Vinyl silk emulsion paints are quite 'plasticky', and many don't sand that well - it will often tear rather than sand. Matt emulsions, on the other hand, tend to sand off to a fine powder.I guess a lower speed, less pressure, would reduce the 'melting'. Yes, it's darned annoying - I usually resort to wire-brushing the worse off. Partly works.The suggested solution seems to be zinsser Gardz, with a few sites saying use peel stop, we already have peel stop, so would that suffice before we do a thin coat of white to undercoat it and then apply the Matt emulsion? Or is Gardz more recommended?0 -
Not sure, but I think Gardz is an all round sealer/primer, and should effectively separate the old from the new.
'Peel stop' is, I understand, more to hold down loose flaking paint, which isn't really your issue.
Not sure, tho' - hopefully others will know better.0 -
Painting woodwork also?0
-
So, got some Gardz. I was going to give a quick mist coat but guessing that could cause the issues with bubbling prior to using the Gardz? So just Gardz then emulsion?0
-
If you are going to use Gardz, then use it first.

1 -
Got this because quicker than mixing some easyfill, I've used it on a couple of holes where I've taken plugs out of, looks like I'll need a second coat as where the hole is it's shrunk back into the hole but still quick to work with.FreeBear said:ashe said: the surface still has a strong orange peel feel to it which I was hoping to sand away. Is it easier to scrape some easyfill over the bumps with a trowel and then sand smooth & mist coat? Or am I going too far?I've been using Knaul Fill & Finish to patch up some walls here. Once dry, going over with a moist sponge float helps to feather in the edges and take out any small humps & hollows - A lot less mess than sanding.Wickes do a 5Kg tub for around £17, but if you shop around, a 20Kg tub shouldn't cost much more than £30.Do you prime it first or can you just paint straight over it once happy with the finish?0
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply
Categories
- All Categories
- 352.3K Banking & Borrowing
- 253.6K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 454.3K Spending & Discounts
- 245.3K Work, Benefits & Business
- 601.1K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 177.6K Life & Family
- 259.2K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.7K Read-Only Boards
