Why isn't my radiator heating up?

housebuyer143

ThisIsWeird said:

housebuyer143 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Remind us - is this a 'vented' system, with a small F&E tank in the loft?

Something to try: Shut off each valve in turn*, and try bleeding the rad with the other one fully open. Allow a good amount of water to (hopefully) squirt out.

Compare the squirts for either side.

* For the lockshield valve, you should note the spindle position before adjusting it, so you can return it to its original position if needed.

Thanks, it's an  unvented cylinder.. I'll give that a go.

Your DHW is provided via an unvented hot cylinder? Which means you do not have a large CWS tank in the loft? 

The CH system is separate, tho', so could be different. Q - does your boiler have a pressure gauge?

Yes that's right. Hot water from the tank and boiler for the rads. The pressure gauge reads 1.6 but I don't think it's entirely accurate all the time as it sometimes reads lower and fluctuates around 1.6.

Le_Kirk

housebuyer143 said:

Le_Kirk said:

How old are the rads/system, could it be sludge as @plumb1_2 suggests?

It's 20 years old and I would be surprised if the previous owner maintained it well. Would the sludge stop this from heating? I might look to power flush them and see if that helps.

Sludge stops the water from moving through the pipes and the radiator. Can you feel any heat at all either end by placing your hand round the pipes feeding the rad?  Is it one end or no ends? You should not need a power flush if other rads are working; just do what @plumb1_2 suggests (with help if required).

ThisIsWeird

housebuyer143 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

housebuyer143 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Remind us - is this a 'vented' system, with a small F&E tank in the loft?

Something to try: Shut off each valve in turn*, and try bleeding the rad with the other one fully open. Allow a good amount of water to (hopefully) squirt out.

Compare the squirts for either side.

* For the lockshield valve, you should note the spindle position before adjusting it, so you can return it to its original position if needed.

Thanks, it's an  unvented cylinder.. I'll give that a go.

Your DHW is provided via an unvented hot cylinder? Which means you do not have a large CWS tank in the loft? 

The CH system is separate, tho', so could be different. Q - does your boiler have a pressure gauge?

Yes that's right. Hot water from the tank and boiler for the rads. The pressure gauge reads 1.6 but I don't think it's entirely accurate all the time as it sometimes reads lower and fluctuates around 1.6.

Ok, so it's a 'system' boiler - unvented and 'pressurised'.

1.6bar is a touch high, but that doesn't matter provided it doesn't go much higher in use. But what 'pressurised' does helpfully mean is that you should get a solid jet of water coming out the bleed screw when it's undone. So please try what I suggested; close off one valve, and open the other. Open the bleed screw - do you get a fine jet of water coming out that would squirt at least a couple of feet if left unguarded?! Let it run for a good, ooh, 10 seconds. Top up the system pressure if needed, tho' I'd personally keep it at just over 1 bar.

Repeat with the other valve open/closed. 

You should get a solid continuous jet of water coming out both times. Do you?

housebuyer143

ThisIsWeird said:

housebuyer143 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

housebuyer143 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Remind us - is this a 'vented' system, with a small F&E tank in the loft?

Something to try: Shut off each valve in turn*, and try bleeding the rad with the other one fully open. Allow a good amount of water to (hopefully) squirt out.

Compare the squirts for either side.

* For the lockshield valve, you should note the spindle position before adjusting it, so you can return it to its original position if needed.

Thanks, it's an  unvented cylinder.. I'll give that a go.

Your DHW is provided via an unvented hot cylinder? Which means you do not have a large CWS tank in the loft? 

The CH system is separate, tho', so could be different. Q - does your boiler have a pressure gauge?

Yes that's right. Hot water from the tank and boiler for the rads. The pressure gauge reads 1.6 but I don't think it's entirely accurate all the time as it sometimes reads lower and fluctuates around 1.6.

Ok, so it's a 'system' boiler - unvented and 'pressurised'.

1.6bar is a touch high, but that doesn't matter provided it doesn't go much higher in use. But what 'pressurised' does helpfully mean is that you should get a solid jet of water coming out the bleed screw when it's undone. So please try what I suggested; close off one valve, and open the other. Open the bleed screw - do you get a fine jet of water coming out that would squirt at least a couple of feet if left unguarded?! Let it run for a good, ooh, 10 seconds. Top up the system pressure if needed, tho' I'd personally keep it at just over 1 bar.

Repeat with the other valve open/closed. 

You should get a solid continuous jet of water coming out both times. Do you?

Thank you. I'll try this when I'm back home and report back in a few days. Appreciate your help