how to treat the sawn sections of pressure-treated exterior timber?

Hi,

I've made a little outdoor storage unit which involved sawing pressure-treated timber. The sawn sections are exposed and I guess that I should treat them because the pressure-treatment will only protect the outside of the wood not the inside?? Is that correct?

What product is good to buy, I don't want to buy the wrong thing at B&Q and end up with a rotten construction.

Many thanks


Comments

  • maisie_cat
    maisie_cat Posts: 2,135 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Academoney Grad
    There used to be blue stuff for decking end grain but DIY stores will sell end grain preservative, you'll need a cheap paintbrush to throw away afterwards.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,855 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    I've used the No-Nonsense stuff from Screwfix to liberally treat the wood on my shed and also an arbor. Liberal coatings on the end grain (three or four coats), and it seems to be standing up to the elements quite well. Sheds have been up for around six years now, and no sign of rot.
    Keeping the timber away from soil will help - Either stand the structure on a concrete base, paving slabs, or slightly elevated on bricks.
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  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 31 March 2023 at 1:24PM

    I've made a little outdoor storage unit which involved sawing pressure-treated timber. The sawn sections are exposed and I guess that I should treat them because the will only protect the outside of the wood not the inside?? Is that correct?
    It's called pressure-treatment because it penetrates deep inside, not just treats the surface. I can't tell you how deep, but you can see this by the colour, usually greenish. So, it depends on how big is the cross-section of your timbers.


  • plumb1_2
    plumb1_2 Posts: 4,395 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Is this where you get confused about standing in a bucket.
  • Thanks all.

    There's 2x2 inch frame, some 2x1 around the edges for decoration, and feathered fencing panels for the roof. 

    The fencing is thin but the insides of the frame def don't look treated inside 
  • JohnJ76
    JohnJ76 Posts: 95 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 10 Posts
    once cut, stand all the pieces it in a bucket of barrettine wood preserver (other preservers are available but i like the smell which probably accounts for lots of things!) whilst you have a brew and do some other jobs, half hour should be plenty. the end grain will suck it up. turn it over to do the other end if cut too.   also echo other advice re: lifting wooden structures off soil, even a very small amount will vastly prolong the life.
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  • Thanks. I will support all 4 corners with some of those rubber garden tiles that I have left over. Should be able to shave bits off where the ground isn't quite level 
  • FreeBear said:
    I've used the No-Nonsense stuff from Screwfix to liberally treat the wood on my shed and also an arbor. Liberal coatings on the end grain (three or four coats), and it seems to be standing up to the elements quite well. Sheds have been up for around six years now, and no sign of rot.
    Keeping the timber away from soil will help - Either stand the structure on a concrete base, paving slabs, or slightly elevated on bricks.
    I also used the no-nonsense wood preserver stuff from Screwfix. It's good stuff but quite thin so either use several liberal brush coats (being careful not to splash it all over your paving etc) or what I did was to pour some into an old ice cream tub and soak the cut ends in it for a few minutes to make sure they got a good soaking.
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