We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
How to finish edge of tiled fireplace?

akira181
Posts: 541 Forumite

I'm planning on tiling the left and right sides of my fireplace and I'm needing tips on how to finish the edge neatly.
The fire recess is not right angled, it's an acute trapezoid (thanks google!). Someone recommended that I build out one of the side walls so the two side walls have matching angles and widths but the hearth has been installed central to the existing opening, so the outer hearth would not be central to the opening if I do that by about 3 or 4cm if I do that. Pics attached.
The wall is not also straight vertically (the building is over 100 years old) but I doubt it would be noticeable once tiled. The wall is quite uneven, with 30mm dips in the worst spots. I'm planning to build up a few layers of tile adhesive to get it somewhat flat then tile over. I'm trying to avoid using cement board as the woodburner is going to stick out due to the tapering of the recess and cement board would add to that but I'm beginning to think it might be the best option.
What I'm struggling with is how to finish the edge where the tile meets the plaster, especially the skirting board area.
I'm thinking of using some a rounded tile trim to tidy the edge where they meet although it would mean part of the tile/trim will be in dead space due to the gap between the plasterboard and the brick wall. I'll try to use some adhesive to fill that gap although there's not much space to be able to push the adhesive firmly to the brick. Will just have to pack it in and hope it sticks enough gives some support for the tile.

The fire recess is not right angled, it's an acute trapezoid (thanks google!). Someone recommended that I build out one of the side walls so the two side walls have matching angles and widths but the hearth has been installed central to the existing opening, so the outer hearth would not be central to the opening if I do that by about 3 or 4cm if I do that. Pics attached.
The wall is not also straight vertically (the building is over 100 years old) but I doubt it would be noticeable once tiled. The wall is quite uneven, with 30mm dips in the worst spots. I'm planning to build up a few layers of tile adhesive to get it somewhat flat then tile over. I'm trying to avoid using cement board as the woodburner is going to stick out due to the tapering of the recess and cement board would add to that but I'm beginning to think it might be the best option.
What I'm struggling with is how to finish the edge where the tile meets the plaster, especially the skirting board area.
I'm thinking of using some a rounded tile trim to tidy the edge where they meet although it would mean part of the tile/trim will be in dead space due to the gap between the plasterboard and the brick wall. I'll try to use some adhesive to fill that gap although there's not much space to be able to push the adhesive firmly to the brick. Will just have to pack it in and hope it sticks enough gives some support for the tile.
How would you finish the skirting though? It's cut at a different angle
to the wall annoyingly. I think having the tile extend onto the skirting
will look weird as will having the tile trim on the rear edge of the
skirting. I can't think of an effective solution, any tips?






0
Comments
-
Is the skirting being replaced? I'd put a return on the edge of the skirting so the profile runs into the tile (cut the skirting at a 45 as if you were going round an external corner and then add a tiny piece in to create the return)0
-
How I finished skirting around my fireplace (a little grubby after ~6 years. Needs a clean & paint).One thing you will need to be careful of - Distance to combustible materials. This will include stuff like skirting, timber packing in the walls, and so on.Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
rob7475 said:Is the skirting being replaced? I'd put a return on the edge of the skirting so the profile runs into the tile (cut the skirting at a 45 as if you were going round an external corner and then add a tiny piece in to create the return)I wasn't intending to replace the skirting. Annoyingly the 45 has been cut the wrong way so I'd have to cut two pieces to build a return. Unless there's a clever way to undercut a 45 with the skirting installed?@FreeBear Did you cut the little finishing piece or could I find something similar in a shop like B&Q? Cutting the skirting to 90 in situ would be easier than undercutting a 45 I imagineDistance to combustibles is something I'm concerned about (the wooden unit will be moved). The woodburner will stick out 5 to 10cm and the surround of the fireplace is plain plasterboard with a skim coat and MDF skirting. I asked the builder who opened the fireplace and the hearth installer and they didn't seem to think it was a problem but didn't sound convincing.I'll probably check with the installer and hold off on finishing the skirting for now.0
-
akira181 said: @FreeBear Did you cut the little finishing piece or could I find something similar in a shop like B&Q? Cutting the skirting to 90 in situ would be easier than undercutting a 45 I imagineDistance to combustibles is something I'm concerned about (the wooden unit will be moved). The woodburner will stick out 5 to 10cm and the surround of the fireplace is plain plasterboard with a skim coat and MDF skirting. I asked the builder who opened the fireplace and the hearth installer and they didn't seem to think it was a problem but didn't sound convincing.The quarter round profile is something I turned myself on a small lathe. Extremely unlikely you would get anything like that from B&Q. A local wood turner could probably knock something up for you in an hour.As for distance to combustibles, the stove manual should give some dimensions. Use that as a guide rather than what a builder or anyone here might say. One thing to point out - Plasterboard, even with a skim of plaster, is not rated as non-combustible. The paper facing is what causes the problem.. Also, gypsum plaster will crack and flake if exposed to temperatures over 50°C. Close to a stove, you need to use either a heat resistant plaster such as Vitcas or a lime plaster.The wall above my stove can get up to 150°C or more, and even at ceiling height, can be ~60°C. Used a lime plaster from floor to ceiling, and just have a couple of hairline cracks which is to be expected.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
akira181 said:rob7475 said:Is the skirting being replaced? I'd put a return on the edge of the skirting so the profile runs into the tile (cut the skirting at a 45 as if you were going round an external corner and then add a tiny piece in to create the return)I wasn't intending to replace the skirting. Annoyingly the 45 has been cut the wrong way so I'd have to cut two pieces to build a return. Unless there's a clever way to undercut a 45 with the skirting installed?@FreeBear Did you cut the little finishing piece or could I find something similar in a shop like B&Q? Cutting the skirting to 90 in situ would be easier than undercutting a 45 I imagineDistance to combustibles is something I'm concerned about (the wooden unit will be moved). The woodburner will stick out 5 to 10cm and the surround of the fireplace is plain plasterboard with a skim coat and MDF skirting. I asked the builder who opened the fireplace and the hearth installer and they didn't seem to think it was a problem but didn't sound convincing.I'll probably check with the installer and hold off on finishing the skirting for now.
I took photos of every stage of the work for my stove installer to see. It's his name that signs it off for insurance etc.
The skirting should be far enough away by the looks of it and the required distances to combustables will be in your stove manual for you to be reassured or just ring up the stove supplier. I found all these people pretty helpful. If the stove is protruding from the recess don't put a wooden mantel above it unless it is pretty high up.1 -
Do you need some sort of edging strip to go around the tiles, and could that cover the skirting board end, too?No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?1
-
Trying to keep the edging strip as small as possible as I prefer a cleaner look and I'm planning on cutting some skirting down to put a return edge on as suggested above. I've spoken with the stove installer and he's happy with the distance to combustibles since I cut the arch out (picture attached). The plasterboard was too low before. I've got some decorative brick slips to use in there to fill out the arch and refresh the look of the brick.The left and right walls of the recess are not the same angle, the back wall to the left is about 110 degrees and the right is around 125 degrees. Not sure if I should build out the wall to make them the same angle or just leave as is.If I build it out, the plaster on the right side will need to be extended by about 5cm and I'll need to buy some cement render, which I really cannot be bothered doing.If I leave it, I'm concerned that it'll be too noticeable and the stove won't look central, making it seem odd.What's the opinion on that? Noticeable or not?0
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 350K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.7K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.1K Spending & Discounts
- 243K Work, Benefits & Business
- 619.9K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.5K Life & Family
- 256K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- Read-Only Boards