Working with MDF?

paperclap

ThisIsWeird said:

To clarify, I was suggesting the biscuit joints for the main frame and not the doors. Dowels would probably do too.

Ah, sorry. Even still, why dowels (or biscuits) over screws? Presumably to prevent any risk of splitting / bulging the MDF with screws?

ThisIsWeird said:

For the wardrobe carcase, consider whether the end panels, top panel and back are actually needed - could the existing walls and ceiling do? But understandable if you'd rather have it fully lined. 

I think fully lined is the way to go. Though, still uncertain as to whether I should fixate the carcasses to the wall in any way, to prevent movement... or even worse, toppling over? Don't know if it's a concern?

ThisIsWeird

paperclap said:

ThisIsWeird said:

To clarify, I was suggesting the biscuit joints for the main frame and not the doors. Dowels would probably do too.

Ah, sorry. Even still, why dowels (or biscuits) over screws? Presumably to prevent any risk of splitting / bulging the MDF with screws?

The front frame is going to be made from what - 24mm MDF? And the sections will be, again what - around 100+mm wide? How will screws do this - what length would they need to be?

paperclap

The doors will be made up of 12mm MDF. Then, additional 12mm MDF panels, to give the "shaker" style. Glued and clamped, as previously suggested in this thread. No screws.

The carcasses will be made up of 18mm MDF. Left, right, top, bottom and back. I'd planned on using 4 by 50mm MDF screws (after pilot holding), Screws will be from the face of the top panel, into the end grain of the left and right panels. Likewise, the screws will be from the face of the bottom panel, into the end grain of the left and right panels.

This (portion of this) video shows the carcass construction well.

https://youtu.be/R1dKybdYyY8?t=490

greensalad

paperclap said:

Doozergirl said:

If you've essentially got 3 x 1000mm wardrobes then it would be cheaper and easier to buy 3 Ikea carcasses and hinges, build them up, box around them in with mdf and build your own doors from mdf.

Greensalad did something similar recently. 

You could… but then you’ve got horrid shelf holes everywhere, and you either go for their short door height or tall door height. I’ll give it another look, but don’t think IKEA will completely work in our situation.

I filled every last shelf hole with a little plastic dot. I did 1,000 of them! But now it's in-situ and full of clothes I never notice. And my wardrobe is open so it's even more visible. With doors, I'd think just put the plastic plugs in and deal with it.

My thread here: https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/6388428/framing-in-around-ikea-pax-wardrobe/p1

Finished result:



Second suggestion for OP, have you looked at "The Cabinet Shop"? I ordered a custom alcove cupboard and it's absolutely amazing. It's flat pack cam lock MDF but it is so incredibly solid and easy to put together. For what you are proposing making out of MDF yourself... I wonder how much more it'd be to get them to build triple wardrobes for you. You'd still put them together and install them but you'd have perfect wardrobes, everything cut square and all the joints already done and neat. If you're already handy yourself as you say, you may find the cost/benefit difference is worth it if you self-install but have everything cut for you.

greensalad

Just spec'd up a "tall double cupboard" on The Cabinet Shop. Shaker doors, 2100mm tall x 1000mm wide x 600mm depth. Two shelves (I suspect you might want an upper and lower shelf with rails in the middle). £724. How does that compare to your material cost? https://thecabinetshop.co.uk/products/tall-double-cupboard 

You can tell them your desired plinth height. When I did my alcove cupboards they included two filler panels for each side that I scribed to fit. You could ask for an additional one to go along the top that you would scribe to the ceiling. Or you could ask for some crown moulding to go along the top. 

I'm sure you could also ask them to make you these as a full quad so they are all held together as one unit and don't need to be tied together in the middle. 

ThisIsWeird

paperclap said:

The doors will be made up of 12mm MDF. Then, additional 12mm MDF panels, to give the "shaker" style. Glued and clamped, as previously suggested in this thread. No screws.

The carcasses will be made up of 18mm MDF. Left, right, top, bottom and back. I'd planned on using 4 by 50mm MDF screws (after pilot holding), Screws will be from the face of the top panel, into the end grain of the left and right panels. Likewise, the screws will be from the face of the bottom panel, into the end grain of the left and right panels.

This (portion of this) video shows the carcass construction well.

https://youtu.be/R1dKybdYyY8?t=490

That's all good, PC, for the carcases.

For the biscuits/dowels part, I was referring to the front framing, assuming it'll have some? Will the doors overlap the framing, or sit flush inside it?

Your carcases won't be going tight against the ceiling, then? You'll be able to build them first and then position them on top of your base plinth as in the video? Cool, that's fine.

paperclap

Sorry, not sure what you mean with regards to the front framing? 

The doors will sit inside the carcass. And yeah, the carcass will be constructed on the floor, then a filler strip on top 

Given that I’ll have sections of shelving spanning ~1 metre, I’m assuming it would be unwise to use 18 MDF here, as it’ll sag? Would it be best to use MDF for vertical areas and where the carcass meets the plinth… and then perhaps 18mm plywood for shelving and the top of the carcass, so as to prevent sagging?