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Modern storage heater comparisons
Comments
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email there customer service maybe and ask if they have any specifications or lab testing available to the public to compare performance?
when we were picking a multi fuel stove oh wrote to several companies and they were happy to send over the docs on efficiency and heat output etc.Almost everything will work again if you unplug it for a few minutes, including you. Anne Lamott
It's amazing how those with a can-do attitude and willingness to 'pitch in and work' get all the luck, isn't it?
Please consider buying some pet food and giving it to your local food bank collection or animal charity. Animals aren't to blame for the cost of living crisis.0 -
TheElectricCow said:
Currently there are two 1500w heaters in the open kitchen/living room which are wired to the CU on their own heating circuit with what I've now found to be a 16amp MCB. The others in the flat wired to a separate circuit with a 20amp MCB. Each individual heater is wired via a 13amp switched fused spur.
The initial plan was to replace either one or both of of these from the living room with storage heater(s) of the same power rating....Oops small edit to include that first line from next para - with "same power rating".Be careful about power assumptions // equivalances - when it comes to night storage heaters.The NSH is designed to take more energy / heat over a shorter charge time period - and distribute it slowly as required.Take the upper end dimplex QM150 - it is rated at 3300W input for main charge, for nominal 1500W output. And has an 1100W boost heater.Sales sites claim it's good for upto 15m2. Thats a largish small modern house living room - but probably way too small for an open plan kitchen diner living room etc - especially if you already have two 1500W panels fitted.See p8 of one of the latest manual on dimplex website.The manual - actually quotes a max ouptut of upto 2kWh, the 1500W being the nominal - but it cannot provide even that all day and night from an overnight E7 charge(*).But to replace a standard panel heater, arguably it is the charge capacity and the output rating that matters - to size the devices appropriately.And its then the matching maximum input rating that matters, not the output, for your wiring / MCBs etc.(*)Take the standard E7 set-up - that would charge for a maximum of 7 hours - so 7x3.3 = 23.1 kWh energy.If that was to be distributed into the room evenly over 24h - that would be only 23.1/24 = 0.96 kW equivalent power output.Second Edit"Sorry that thought might frighten you - as unlikely would need heater charging for full 7hr period - especially given your low heat requirement"Then there is the boost element - that on the top model is 1100W - so can add that on top to stored energy - but of course during day / evening - that would be peak rate electric on E7 - so ideally dont want to rely on it.Of course the panel heaters are probably not on continuously either - they probably cycle on thermostats - but the key difference being - they will only ever be taking 1500 W input - but as soon as main charge elements activated on say the QM150 model - it will take the full 3300W.
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I'm not sure if it is the right solution for you, but I just wanted to put FIR panel heaters in the mix. They're not particularly popular on this board as they are closer to direct electric heaters. Imo, the main issue with them is that they have quite a specific use but are not usually sold like that. I think they are particularly good for intermittent, spot heating. I have a 700W panel heater which I use occasionally in a room that is approx 3m x 3m for probably a max of 2-3 hours. I don't think they would work all over a place for constant heat, but they could be cheaper to run than a 1500W heater for "topping up". (If it is something you decide to consider, don't let the sales staff get their teeth into you, do your own calculations).4.3kW PV, 3.6kW inverter. Octopus Agile import, gas Tracker. Zoe. Ripple x 3. Cheshire0
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70sbudgie said:I'm not sure if it is the right solution for you, but I just wanted to put FIR panel heaters in the mix. They're not particularly popular on this board as they are closer to direct electric heaters. Imo, the main issue with them is that they have quite a specific use but are not usually sold like that. I think they are particularly good for intermittent, spot heating. I have a 700W panel heater which I use occasionally in a room that is approx 3m x 3m for probably a max of 2-3 hours. I don't think they would work all over a place for constant heat, but they could be cheaper to run than a 1500W heater for "topping up". (If it is something you decide to consider, don't let the sales staff get their teeth into you, do your own calculations).🎉 MORTGAGE FREE (First time!) 30/09/2016 🎉 And now we go again…New mortgage taken 01/09/23 🏡
Balance as at 01/09/23 = £115,000.00 Balance as at 31/12/23 = £112,000.00
Balance as at 31/08/24 = £105,400.00 Balance as at 31/12/24 = £102,500.00
£100k barrier broken 1/4/25SOA CALCULATOR (for DFW newbies): SOA Calculatorshe/her0 -
EssexHebridean said:70sbudgie said:I'm not sure if it is the right solution for you, but I just wanted to put FIR panel heaters in the mix. They're not particularly popular on this board as they are closer to direct electric heaters. Imo, the main issue with them is that they have quite a specific use but are not usually sold like that. I think they are particularly good for intermittent, spot heating. I have a 700W panel heater which I use occasionally in a room that is approx 3m x 3m for probably a max of 2-3 hours. I don't think they would work all over a place for constant heat, but they could be cheaper to run than a 1500W heater for "topping up". (If it is something you decide to consider, don't let the sales staff get their teeth into you, do your own calculations).1
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Scot_39 said:TheElectricCow said:
Currently there are two 1500w heaters in the open kitchen/living room which are wired to the CU on their own heating circuit with what I've now found to be a 16amp MCB. The others in the flat wired to a separate circuit with a 20amp MCB. Each individual heater is wired via a 13amp switched fused spur.
The initial plan was to replace either one or both of of these from the living room with storage heater(s) of the same power rating....Oops small edit to include that first line from next para - with "same power rating".Be careful about power assumptions // equivalances - when it comes to night storage heaters.The NSH is designed to take more energy / heat over a shorter charge time period - and distribute it slowly as required.Take the upper end dimplex QM150 - it is rated at 3300W input for main charge, for nominal 1500W output. And has an 1100W boost heater.Sales sites claim it's good for upto 15m2. Thats a largish small modern house living room - but probably way too small for an open plan kitchen diner living room etc - especially if you already have two 1500W panels fitted.See p8 of one of the latest manual on dimplex website.The manual - actually quotes a max ouptut of upto 2kWh, the 1500W being the nominal - but it cannot provide even that all day and night from an overnight E7 charge(*).But to replace a standard panel heater, arguably it is the charge capacity and the output rating that matters - to size the devices appropriately.And its then the matching maximum input rating that matters, not the output, for your wiring / MCBs etc.(*)Take the standard E7 set-up - that would charge for a maximum of 7 hours - so 7x3.3 = 23.1 kWh energy.If that was to be distributed into the room evenly over 24h - that would be only 23.1/24 = 0.96 kW equivalent power output.Second Edit"Sorry that thought might frighten you - as unlikely would need heater charging for full 7hr period - especially given your low heat requirement"Then there is the boost element - that on the top model is 1100W - so can add that on top to stored energy - but of course during day / evening - that would be peak rate electric on E7 - so ideally dont want to rely on it.Of course the panel heaters are probably not on continuously either - they probably cycle on thermostats - but the key difference being - they will only ever be taking 1500 W input - but as soon as main charge elements activated on say the QM150 model - it will take the full 3300W.
At the moment I'm fairly sure 2 x 1500w input rated SHs would be more than adequate for me, as while there are the two panel heaters currently in the main living space, on the occasions I have used the heating I've found just the one provides more than enough heat for me especially in evenings if there's cooking and such going on - I can't ever see myself having an actual need for the full 3000w of both running at the same time.
I suspect that with the low heating requirements I have a higher power model such as a QM150 would be overkill, I'd probably be looking more towards the QM70 or QM100 range. This is partly the reason why I'm more concerned about the relatively smaller differences in price between models, as with use as low as mine there's much less scope for them to actually provide any cost savings as opposed to just sticking the value of a storage heater on my electric account.
Not to mention if for any reason things did get unbearably cold I'd still have regular electric heating in the bedroom/hall/bathroom which could supplement on peak rate if absolutely necessary, so I'm more worried about installing an overpowered solution than an underpowered one.
Nonetheless your responses have been very helpful.Moo…1 -
70sbudgie said:I'm not sure if it is the right solution for you, but I just wanted to put FIR panel heaters in the mix. They're not particularly popular on this board as they are closer to direct electric heaters. Imo, the main issue with them is that they have quite a specific use but are not usually sold like that. I think they are particularly good for intermittent, spot heating. I have a 700W panel heater which I use occasionally in a room that is approx 3m x 3m for probably a max of 2-3 hours. I don't think they would work all over a place for constant heat, but they could be cheaper to run than a 1500W heater for "topping up". (If it is something you decide to consider, don't let the sales staff get their teeth into you, do your own calculations).
I can see the value in infrared heating for some uses but something a bit more all purpose is what I'm after.Moo…0 -
Swipe said:EssexHebridean said:70sbudgie said:I'm not sure if it is the right solution for you, but I just wanted to put FIR panel heaters in the mix. They're not particularly popular on this board as they are closer to direct electric heaters. Imo, the main issue with them is that they have quite a specific use but are not usually sold like that. I think they are particularly good for intermittent, spot heating. I have a 700W panel heater which I use occasionally in a room that is approx 3m x 3m for probably a max of 2-3 hours. I don't think they would work all over a place for constant heat, but they could be cheaper to run than a 1500W heater for "topping up". (If it is something you decide to consider, don't let the sales staff get their teeth into you, do your own calculations).Interesting that the poster makes the point about intermittent space heating.Not necessarily therefore best to replace main heating in home .
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I have two Quantums and two box of bricks. The Quantums are amazing. I think it's as close as you can get to GCH in a storage heater.
The box of bricks in my bedroom I hate. Even on low I'm woken up at 3 am by the charging heat. I am however female and of a certain age!
The other box of bricks is great.Officially in a clique of idiots2
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