Underfloor heating: how to use properly

Spir4

markin said:

leaving it on 24hr could be a problem depending on how your charged, If its simply time water is flowing, It will end up expensive, Now if you had the boiler in your control you could set the flow temp very low and use very little BTU's.

I fairly sure it's just water flowing, because I can't control anything about the "boiler". It's set to 55 degrees for hot water and 45 degrees for the heating, but I can't change that.
I can change the pump speed but not sure if that would change anything.

chris_n

Spir4 said:

Yeah we've got curtains that don't let any light through, but when it's 40 degrees outside like we had last summer there's nothing that can keep that out, except AC. But summer is a whole different thing, I want to get winter sorted first now 

Over here flats have external blinds / shutters to keep the sun out in summer (and overhanging balconies)

70sbudgie

Spir4 said:

markin said:

leaving it on 24hr could be a problem depending on how your charged, If its simply time water is flowing, It will end up expensive, Now if you had the boiler in your control you could set the flow temp very low and use very little BTU's.

I fairly sure it's just water flowing, because I can't control anything about the "boiler". It's set to 55 degrees for hot water and 45 degrees for the heating, but I can't change that.
I can change the pump speed but not sure if that would change anything.

Reducing the pump speed might be worth investigating. That way you will be able to get more heat out of each litre of water that flows into your flat and if you are charged on the volume of hot water that you use, that is how you will reduce your bills when you can't reduce the boiler temperature. A slower pump speed combined with the heating on for longer maybe the solution to keeping the floor feeling warm without heating the room too much.

Spir4

Yeah maybe thank you, I'll give that a go.

getmore4less

If the thermostat is a simple call for heat with just 3 times settings with a single temp it may be worth looking at a programmable stat for the main living space with temperature control

That way you can have a lower temp setting for early to just take the chill off if the place gets cold overnight.

Then a more normal day temp to start a bit later after solar gains starts(UFH then not needed if sunny).

 If your heat loss is low a lower flow rate for longer will probably reduce the number of  swings keeping the floor warmer for longer.

Typically you leave the heating on and let the thermostat do it's job.


This summer was especially hot at times your heating could be off for a good 6-9months to avoid premature pre heating on chilly nights but still allow manual intervention based on forecast the odd days

We can live with the odd slightly colder morning and  evening doing a manual boost on the colder days once a regular event heating on schedule.

frostysaver

If you have significant solar gain, then maybe a smarter thermostat that includes weather compensation will be more comfortable and efficient?

razord

markin said:

leaving it on 24hr could be a problem depending on how your charged, If its simply time water is flowing, It will end up expensive, Now if you had the boiler in your control you could set the flow temp very low and use very little BTU's.

District heat networks (almost always) charge by measuring the flow rate, flow temperature in, and flow temperature out. From that, they can calculate how many watts of heat you've "consumed" in your heat exchanger.

As your radiators (or floor) heats up and the heat exchanger uses less heat, the kWh consumption drops too - and there are usually thermostats which stop the (internal to the property) pump entirely at desired temperatures.